I have a Chopper II that has an issue that I can't figure out. When I try to chop anything with any thickness, instead of getting a vertical cut, I end up with the cut having a angle to the left. (As I recall, this problem has existed since I first got the unit. I have been able to work around the problem for most of what I have built. However, my latest project needs straight and vertical ends.) There seems to be nothing wrong with the handle or the razor blade. Any suggestions to fix this problem would be most welcomed.
I think that the problem lies with the blade, which has a taper on both sides. I recall reading here, somewhere, that similar blades, but with a taper on only one side, are available.I think that the double-sided taper is used to drum-up interest in their True-Sander.
Wayne
Have heard cut halfway then flip it over to finish the cut. Not sure if that works or not.
Modeling on the cheap
What kind of wood are you cutting? Basswood usually will give you a perfect cut. Others such as sugar pine and balsa.....not so.
HZ
Where I am having the current problem is with .125 styrene tubing. I'm trying to built a needed angle on some bridge supports by cutting the tubing into "bricks" with some .005 styrene on one end to represent mortar.
You might consider using a saw instead.
I've got this little aluminum miter box that I use for straight cuts. I've never tried it, but I'd cut a new fresh slot at the proper angle and go from there.
Nothing to lose, really.
Ed
A number of manufacturers make hobby size miter boxes. I have had an X-Acto one for more than 20 years
https://www.walthers.com/search/category/products/tools-finishing/tools/mode/list/show/20?match=AND&q=miter+box
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Take a modelers square to it and see if it is set up right. The chopper 1 you could adjust, not the two though.
As I don't have the Chopper with me at the moment (it is on my layout) I will check it with a square on Sunday. I might also try the suggestion of the single edge razor blades to see if that helps. (I've been thinking about changing the blade anyway.) I also popped the handle out and noticed that the blade appeared to be mounted off kilter, but given I wasn't checking for that at the time, it didn't seem important at the time. I was only checking if the handle was crooked.
Are You sure You have the chopper II and not one of the others? The chopper II is die-cast Aluminum and the handle nor the blade are adjustable. The handle will not move at all, only up/down:
http://www.hobbylinc.com/northwest-the-chopper-ii-tool-miniature-wood-styrene-length-cutter-bending-cutting-tool-69?source=froogle&gclid=Cj0KEQjw4rbABRD_gfPA2-uQqroBEiQA58MNdJtqA-lt4T9BObTXhPlB1wvqmG1yb0skL0J3Uw1QAZoaAkia8P8HAQ
Take Care!
Frank
Yes, I'm positive. To remove the handle, I took a center punch and pounded out the silver (I presume steel) pin to examine the handle. (I grew up on a ranch and know how to handle a center punch.) I then used the hammer to pound the pin back in place.
I have this problem but only if I am too leisurely about pressing down the blade. A quick violent chop (while holding tight onto the work) results in a clean square cut but a lazy slower cut sometimes does result in the slight angle.
Dave Nelson
FRRYKid Yes, I'm positive. To remove the handle, I took a center punch and pounded out the silver (I presume steel) pin to examine the handle. (I grew up on a ranch and know how to handle a center punch.) I then used the hammer to pound the pin back in place.
Just for clarification...I said the handle was not adjustable...not un-removeable.
I've had mine since the early 90's when they came out and after a number of yrs. of using it on different materials, it does have it's limitations. One being, when cutting plastic's, the thickness is lower than wood and the blade dulls quicker on plastic's. On strip wood/basswood, the blade also plays a part in cutting, the duel taper of the blade for one and one side of the cut will have a slight taper at the end of cut, but when nescessary, I lightly sand that with 400 grit sandpaper on the side that will be seen or need's to be perfectly square. Even when using a single edge chizel blade, one end of blade will have a slight taper. There is just no way around that, due to the Geometry of the blade. I also found that by snapping the handle down like DAVE mentioned produce's a more square cut, than a slow motion. The tool was designed for mutiple fast repititive cuts of the same size, mainly. For a more precision square cut a table saw/band saw is needed. I personally use a Proxxon 2'' table saw for some of My building, produces a true square cut.
I must have changed the blade on My Chopper II over 100 times already, for I buy them in bulk 50 and 100 packs. For what You are doing with it...You might be better off sawing or using the larger/thicker handle Xacto knife along with the red slip on handle on it with a #18 chizel blade, prefferably with the Gold blades, they are sharper and last longer......also cost more! Red handle knife in pic':
Good Luck!
I had not heard of pulling the handle down fast to cut. I think the blade on mine is a single edge one, that i had installed a couple months ago after it had broke.