Hey all,
While running trains at the club last night, I tried double heading two BLI K4s, both Paragon2 with no changes in programming aside setting addresses. One loco ran well, but another would cut out frequently and restart, putting a strain on the other K4. I also saw it react as if it got an extra bit of juice and would lurch forward or back like 1/2 to 3/4 driver rotation. Someome noted hearing a sound as if the loco had stripped a tooth on a gear. So, we'd hear the motor turn and the loco would lurch forward.
What's odd to is that this particular loco pulled a 35-car train, with little issue this same night. It was when I did the double header and afterwards it gave me trouble.
I haven't had a chance to open it up and see what's wrong. Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance,
Alvie
Does it run fine by itself, or has its performance changed for the worse ever since the problems while consisted? It sounds like you might have a gear slipping a bit on its axle. If the motor can audibly be heard winding up, but the locomotive lurches or stalls intermittently, that's all I can think of.
Well, I put the K4 on my test track and the sound would start and I'd go to speed-step 1 or 2. It'd go forward an inch or so and stop. Several seconds later, the model would come alive again and then stop. I'll call BLI soon I think.
Double check that plug under the cab. Use a wood skewer, the blunt end, to be sure it is pushed in all the way. BLIs have a habit of not running well if that plug is not pushed in ALL the way.
Just a possibility, Ed
Hello Ed,
I checked the plug a few times, plus took it in and out. And no change in performance. I had also checked the mechanism for binding. I'm starting to think it may be the decoder giving me trouble.
An update: I tried running the loco with another Paragon2 decoder, via a tender swap from another K4. This time, the model ran without issue, so it looks like a decoder replacement is in order.
I bought one of the Paragon 3 H-10s when they were released. I had a similar issue.
While inspecting the engine close-up I noticed that a wire had not been attached to the frame.
This shows the wire AFTER I attached it. Even the screw was missing, so it had never been attached from the factory. Wasn't in the box, either.
Still, after making the repair the locomotive sputtered and died frequently, even on tangent track. BLI sent me a new replacement decoder, after swapping IT out there was still no improvement. If I very lightly touched the engine, it would take off again—sometimes only a foot-or-two.
Back to Florida it went and they sent me a replacement engine that runs fine. I never did find out what the problem was. I suspect a poor connection to one of the plugs on one of the wiring harnesses. I do not trust those IDC (insulation displacement connectors) that are in widespread use today. I have seen some completely cut the wire or the "spikes" get bent over and do not properly pierce the insulation.
I hope you get things cleared up. I have not looked at my K4 lately. Does it have bronze wipers behind the drivers? Perhaps there is crud or a poor contact there? Sometimes a tiny drop of CRC 2-26 will improve conductivity...
[EDIT] Disregard the suggestion about the wipers. I see you narrowed the problem down to, possibly, the decoder (still could be a bad plug on a wire harness, maybe).
Good Luck, Ed
I've had the same trouble with my BLI K4. It is designed to get power both from the tender and the drivers. I found when passing over insulated frogs it would stall. I discovered that it wasn't getting pickup from the drivers on one side so when the tender hit a dead spot of track like the frogs, it would hesitate or stop completely if it wasn't going fast enough.
I opened up the engine and I'm trying to remember exactly what the problem was but I believe there was a piece of insulation that was out of position preventing electrical contact with the drivers. I moved it to where it looked like it should be and that seemed to solve the problem but recently it has begun to happen again. I'm thinking of getting a Keep Alive device rather than having to periodically open up the engine.
The way I determined the problem was to put the loco on a powered track with the bell on. I would tip the tender and then the engine on one side and then the other. If the bell stops ringing when the tender wheels are raised off the track you probably have an electrical issue in the engine on that side.