Home Modular Layouts?

[s51flyer]

I'm considering getting back into the hobby after many years of continued interest at arms-length due to marriage, young family, job, other interests, etc.... My kids seem to be really interested after a couple of small railroad like projects we completed together. I think we're ready to move onto something more challenging.

The issue is that I really have no place I can setup a permanent layout that would satisfy my objectives. I could probably do a small, permanent shelf layout, but I want to have trains I can run in a loop when desired, but my main goal woudl be operation. I also want to run passenger service as well as freight switching.

I'm considering a home modular layout that can be setup and disassembled for operating sessions, visitors, construction, etc. I do have a fairly large space where this could be done in our finished basement. I'm considering N-scale (although I've been an HO'er) to get the most out of the space. The space is about 16' x 12'. From a construction standpoint, I thought this would be a great way to break the project up into manageable pieces. Also, the entire layout would not be "under construction" all at once. Lastly, we could alternate between operating trains on the completed modules or do construction on the new modules depending upon our motivation.

I'd appreciate any feedback from those who have built a modular layout for home use. What are the advantages/disadvantages you've discovered over the course of your experience with the layout? One obvious challenge would be storage of the modules when they are not in use. I have a fairly large crawl-space where the modules could be stored, so I'm not too worried about that.

Appreciate any feedback.

Thanks,

Bob O...

[ndbprr]

Having just dumped a house with a 14' x20' basement after 26 years for one with a 30' x 50' basement I understand the space consideration. My original layout filled the basement as much as possible. Then I decided that working with woodworking tools in a Chicago area garge in the winter was not fun so I dismantled and started over only to verify that woodworking tools and model railroads do not mix when three feet apart. So the next stepwas to design a tiered railroad in that used 30" radius on the ends and 30" deep modules on the front. Each module then led to a track which circled around the back and rose to the next level. The problem was that the staging level was 18" off the ground and the top one was 7'. I was up to the fifth level which was working pretty well when the sewer got tree roots in it and guess where the clean out was? I then built a single level layout with hidden staging behind it and was dissatisfied completely so I tried a switching layout with two levels. I was about to try something else which I think would have been the best for me when the opportunity tomove presented itself. I was about to design a division point. It would have been 20' long and 30" wide. a two track loop would have gone around the basement so I could run some serious motive power and watch them run. The two and a half modules ( 8', 8' and 4') would have a yard and diesel and electric engine terminal so I could run my engines and do some switching. i figured some day I could plug them into something more permanent. Alas and happily they never got built as I am now in the dream basement. The moral of all this is definitely include a loop of some type so you can wtach trains but plan the major portion as something you could recycle at some point.

[Anonymous]

An HO scale modular layout isn't all that small, and could quickly eat up most of the space you have. Our modular club members have two four foot modules - eight feet in total. Our plain corners take up a space of four feet square, although they are not much wider than the dual track main line. So to complete a circle you would need 8 feet for the corners.

Add the depth of two corners - 8 feet - one module pair - another 8 feet - and you have 16 feet long and 8 feet wide. And this does not offer very much operating possiblities.

Of course you could make your modules to any standard, making them somewhat smaller.

Most of our modules stack together to reduce storage. One module with its backdrop is stacked upside down on top of another. End boards are bolted on, and they keep the scenic parts of the modules apart. Some of us also have swivel castors on these ends, so when the module "box" is stood on end it can be wheeled about into storage. I have three such pairs, two of which are stored under the stairs in our split level home. The other unfinished pair are stored in my adjacent hobby room.

Doing the same as the above could be done in N scale too, using smaller space. Our club website shows how our modules are stacked for storage in case my words don't paint a good enough picture: http://www.geocities.com/sjsmrr/

Good luck!

Bob Boudreau

[Anonymous]

I'm building an N Scale layout in my apartment. I've built a 7'-3" x2'-8" sawmill module which also serves to gain altitude to approach a future upper level of track. Bigger than club modules though extremely light in weight, mine will not be transported, (except when I build my dream basement.)

This initial module fits on top of an 1867 Steinway Square Grand piano which is awaiting a buyer and restoration. When this dog of a piano is finally gone, I'll use the space to stack the as-yet unbuilt modules.


For this module, I've built a simple 1x2 frame holding 1" foam board. The hills and cliffs are made of bubblewrap over which is layered fiberglass screening and 2-part foam. All this foam tied together makes for an acceptably rigid though lightweight structure. The entire module weighs about 13 pounds so moving and storing similar modules won't be an issue. This module and others will be linked by several narrower but fully sceniced connecting sections. Plans are for a giant "module" of about 7'x14' to lower from the Living Room ceiling by cable and pullies. When raised it would fit nicely between 2 parallel beams in the 10' high ceiling and have a finished underside.

The idea is to get as much railroading in without dominating the living space full-time or giving the occupant even more of an eccentric appearance then he already has. There are times when even I don't want to be watching trains.

Wayne

[ukguy]

Being a 'born again' modeller I have recently started construction on a layout which I innitially thought would work just fine in the space I have available. 25'x30' workshop. Unfortunately the shop has benchwork on every wall housing my table saw, mitre saw, table router, etc. As I use the benchwork regularly for home and business projects I needed a layout that was unobtrusive to the room. I came up with the idea for a counterbalanced tabletop which could be raised out of the way when not in use.(pic on profile) "great idea!!" I thought. It is an 8'x6' area with the double track running in two ovals, one on each tier, this means that all track is accessable for rerailments. The center which will be pretty inaccesable is where the town will be, each street block will be a diorama type unit fixed through the board, but removeable for future updates and scene changes. While this layout will be a good starting point for a new beginer (me) I have decided that it will be my learning curve layout, where I will tryout and practice new techniques, and my ever plentiful crackpot ideas. I have already discoved that it cannot be expanded easily and I am pretty much fixed in any further developments of the layout which is not what I really wanted, with all that said I have already decided that I need a modular layout, this will be in 30"x4' sections which can be stored 2 high under my workbenches on shelf rails. I can currently store eight modular pieces plus two turn around return ends if needed, this will give me a running area of 32' which will be more than enough for my very amature skills to handle. In my opinion, which is based on no exact science or real experience, this would offer me almost endless possibilities. I can work on one section at a time and finish it stage by stage, thus getting a sense of completion and not an endless daunting task. and I can add or remove modules at will to hopefully increase and expand the layout when time, money and space permit. Personally I'm going to go modular, the more I think about it and plan it the more it suits my needs and situation, of course you need to decide what is best for you, but the most common advice I have seen on here for new people (and I wish I had seen it sooner) is think long and hard and spend as much time as possible researching and evaluating the options before spending a big wad of cash. luckily I didnt spend much $$ just alot of time, we live and learn. Take care and I hope it all goes well.

[mcouvillion]

s51flyer,

I'm planning a "sectional" layout for my train room. I say "sectional" since the different pieces will not be the same size, as is implied (at least to me) by the term "modular". The sections are to be built to be supported by gussets attached to the studs of the walls. The sections will attach somehow to the tops of the gussets (I'm thinking of a flat attachment wooden rail along the bottom that would allow some adjustment.). If I need to work on a section, I can remove it from the room and work on it outside or in the garage. I could even build a replacement section to fit while the original is still in place. I want the sections to be small enough to be manageable, but large enough to get a reasonable number of turnouts, track, and scenery on them. No, its not a perfect design, but it will fill the bill in the space I have available. And I can take it with me when / if I move. (I can't imagine the disappointment of having to tear down something you have invested huge amounts of time, effort, and resources in. I'm taking mine with me!)

Mark C.

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by s51flyer
I'd appreciate any feedback from those who have built a modular layout for home use. What are the advantages/disadvantages you've discovered over the course of your experience with the layout?

Disadvantage:
1. The layout design is limited. You of course want minimal track over the breaks in the sections.
2. Greater possibility of damaging the modules while moving them around. Every time I set up or break down seems like I break something. This is even after I rigged protective sides and tops for them.
3. Extra cost of electrical connectors between the modules. You can't depend on rail joiners to transfer power/control signals between the modules.
4. Watch your construction and scenery techniques or the modules can get real heavy. I added five pounds to on module just adding sand to the scenery. I ripped it all off and replace it with fake "foam" sand. Foam scenery only - no plaster or real rocks. Its more expensive but then at least it doesn't take two people to work with the module. I unfortunately have one module that takes 3 people to set up, take down, move. Groan.
5. You can't just go run a train anytime you want. The thing will be set up for weeks, but as soon as you want to run a train will be right after you took it down over the weekend.
6. Takes longer to get to playing with trains. Time spent setting up (don't forget the time of getting the loco's and rolling stock out of their boxes and onto the track) and taking down, is time not spent playing with the trains.

Advantage:
1. If the module is built NMRA or other standards you can take it "out" or have others "in". Adds operating variation not to mention meeting and interacting with other modelers. Perhaps can then run bigger or different trains than you could with just your own set of modules.
2. Carefully designed modules can be arranged differently so you really have multiple layouts. More operating variation.
3. Can be set up in different locations. Doesn't always have to be in the rec room, put it in the living room this time.
4. Can easily change/swap out one module without messing up others.
5. Can work on one module at a time in much less space than a whole layout takes.

QUOTE: One obvious challenge would be storage of the modules when they are not in use. I have a fairly large crawl-space where the modules could be stored, so I'm not too worried about that.

Be certain to measure the access to and from. Include going through any doors and around corners. Also make some sort of cover to protect the sections from dirt/damage while being moved.

Got started with modules with the Youth In Model Railroading orgainization. Each of my children had a module they took to meet with the other kids.

[Anonymous]

Welcome to the forum!![#welcome]

I use to have a 4x8 with a 4x8 ripped in two and the pieces attached with draw hasps to each end. (that was complicated sounding, but it was really a 4x4, 4x8, 4x4 all attached together with a long 2x4 frame under them for support) Anyway, it served me well until about 5 years ago when we built a barn to put my train in. When we took the old one down, it could be hung on the garage wall with a couple of hooks and tarp straps.

Good Luck
Greg

[dehusman]

Do you mean modular or sectional?

Two similar but different concepts. A modular layout is a layout that breaks into sections with a standard interface on one or more ends so it can be connected to other modular sections. For example N-Trak has the same track spacing and electrical cords on the end of every module so any tow modules can be joined. A module need not have a rectangular or even regular shape or multiple, as in the Free-mo module system has strated.
A sectional layout is a layout that breaks down into sections and every joint may have a unique track arrangement. The sections can be irregular shapes and sizes. The layout probably has only one configuration that it goes together as.

I would suggest you go to a library and look up articles in Railroader (or order them from Kalmbach) by David Barrow on his Domino designs. That is a sort of hybrid between the two.

Dave H.

[Bikerdad]

Probably your best option is to go with N scale, and then consider something similar to the Bendtrack standard. http://home.alltel.net/ah50902/plans.htm

This will give you the portability, modularity, improved operations over Ntrak, and allow you to use your modules in larger layouts if the opportunity presents itself.

[s51flyer]

All, thanks for the great feedback!! After reading the responses, I guess Sectional is what I really meant. I thought about adherance to NMRA standards, but I will decide that after I determine the track plan. Great advice about number of tracks spanning a section!

For me, the sectional approach outways any disadvantages, even potential breakage of scenery, because it's either this approach or no approach! Also, I really like the Bent Track approach as an alternative to the traditional sectional approach. Let's of ideas to consider!

N scale is definately the way I will go. I want to pack as much railroading into the space I have. I agree using foam scenic materials is a must for weight. I will have to do some more research on foam vs. plaster for the scenic "surface". I'm not familiar with how well you can control your surface outcome with foam as I am with plaster (i.e., molded rocks, etc.).

Again, thanks for the great advice!

Bob...

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: I agree using foam scenic materials is a must for weight. I will have to do some more research on foam vs. plaster for the scenic "surface". I'm not familiar with how well you can control your surface outcome with foam as I am with plaster (i.e., molded rocks, etc.).

I use Liquid Nails Lightweight One-Step Spackling over the foam/bubble wrap cliffs and rock-cuts.

It's very expensive compared to plaster, but weighs almost nothing and you can spread it thinly. (Pick up the container if you see it at a store. It feels like it is empty.) I made my cliffs with this material in aluminum foil "molds."

Foam takes paint easily and I simply paint slopes and level areas and sift on real dirt as the ground cover. Not a speck of plaster has found it's way into the scenery yet.

Wayne

[BRJN]

Something I am considering is to have a primary layout (2x6 switching puzzle) and a secondary loop - an unscenicked 18" radius circle with a turnout on one side and a rerailer on the other. This allows the kids to watch (and listen) as a train goes round and round. I model 1900, so long cars and engines are not a problem for me. The loop can be put up / taken down easily so when I want it, it's there and when I don't (read: when the van is in the garage) it folds against the wall or something. Later on I can come up with a more permanent way to watch my trains go by themselves.