Okay. I need a two-stall engine house. B.T.S makes one that'd be just about perfect. I've got loads of experience with plastic models, been doing them since i could crawl, but craftsman wood are a new animal to me. How different are the two? Wood vs. plastic I mean?
Help?
Stu
Streamlined steam, oh, what a dream!!
You'll never know untul you try. but I suggest you might want to start with a simpler wood kit, like those made by Campbell.
Tom
I have a few laser-cut kits under my belt. They are much easier to assemble than the customary "craftsman" kit. By following the instructions carefully and pre-painting some of the assemblies you can get excellent results and because of the superb accuracy of the laser cutting you are assured a solid and square structure.
Tom's suggestion of starting out with a simple laser-cut structure is an excellent idea.
I am nearly finished with an American Model Builder's NYC caboose that was very enjoyable to build, the instructions were clear and concise and the results were quite satisfactory. It has a greater level of "character" than a similar, mass produced RTR car, especially for a structure that saw a great deal of "wear-and-tear" in it's lifetime such as an old wood caboose, or in your case, a weary two stall engine house.
This is only in primer, I hope to get farther along with this kit in the coming weeks.
I think you will find the BTS kits fun and rewarding. Did you peek at the instruction sheet sample?
http://www.btsrr.com/inst-sample.htm
Once you get the hang of neatly slicing out the parts, using magnifiers and tweezers, selecting the best adhesives that work for you (many of the parts already have pressure sensitive adhesive already applied, but sometimes I find it necessary to "beef-up" the pre-applied adhesive) you will be a pro in no time.
The old Suydam or Alexander kits are pretty "rudimentary" compared to some of the newer laser-cut varieties.
Good Luck, Ed
Hi Stu:
If you have done lots of plastic kits I doubt that you will get in over your head with a wood one. Tom's advice to start with something simple is good, however I think it is more important to learn as much as you can before starting any wood kit. There are issues like warping and internal bracing that you need to know about.
One place you might start is with the how-to videos offered by Bar Mills Scale Models. They are excellent, and they are free. Also, if you can get your hands on a copy, Bar Mills includes an excellent generic assembly pamphlet with their kits.
http://www.barmillsmodels.com/
Here is another website that offers some basic information. There are lots of these sites as well as videos on the internet:
http://modeltrains.about.com/od/DRGW-Project-Layout/ss/Building-Wood-Model-Kits-A-Sherriffs-Office-For-The-Rio-Grande-Layout.htm#showall
Here are a few basic suggestions:
- Brace the walls and the corners on the inside (where the bracing can't be seen) before painting or staining. If braces are not supplied with the kit, buy some 1/4" or slightly larger square stock from your LHS or on line. Bracing should generally run across the grain of the wood at the bottom and tops of the walls, and vertically in the corners. Tongue and groove models or models that use plywood as opposed to a single sheet of wood may not require as much bracing. If you want to detail the interior, think about where to install the bracing so it doesn't interfere too much with the interior details.
Here is one source for bracing material:
http://www.mtalbert.com/
- If you are going to stain the walls, do it before assembling the kit. Any excess glue at the joints will prevent the stain from being absorbed so the colouring will be uneven in those areas.
- If you are going to paint the kit, again, do it before assembly. Most modellers who want to paint their kits apply a couple of coats of cheap automotive primer to both sides of the walls before the colour coat. You have to paint both sides of the walls, even with bracing applied, or you risk warped panels.
- If you want to paint the details like window and door frames a different colour (Canadian spelling eh!), do it while they are still on the sprues. It is much easier to do it before assembly, and the deliniation between colours will be much sharper. Note that wood details may take several coats of paint to get the needed coverage. They tend to suck up the paint.
- Have a look at the Bar Mills video on which glues to use.
- Get yourself a magnetic gluing platform, or simply an old table saw blade and some square magnets. Even a simple carpenter's square with some heavy blocks will make it so much easier to get square corners.
- Take your time. Let the joints dry thoroughly before moving on to the next step.
- If you have questions, ask them here.
- Have fun!!! You will be hooked even before you finish your first wood kit.
Good luck!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Everybody who ever built a complex kit had a period in his life when he hadn't done it yet and wasn't sure of his capabilities. Yet they managed it. "Don't misunderestimate yourself."
Good suggestions, and thanks to all for them.
I like Campbell's stuff. That coaling tower of theirs is gorgeous and may just be the place to start. I'll admit i haven't spent much time looking at Bar Mills kits or videos; time to change that.
Toot toot!
Tom!
Good point! We all have to start somewhere.
Is this the one you were thinking about?
http://www.master-creations.com/1445.htm
I agree that you should start with a smaller one to get some experience with these kits. I would go with one from the same line of kits because their construction would be similar. From the description, these are laser cut kits, I would avoid Campbell for now . Nothing wrong with them, but they are "old school" kits, i.e. a box full of strip wood and wood sheet that you have to cut all the shapes.
The MOW shed would be a good starter. It retails for $25 in HO scale, so not such a big loss if you decide you can not handle it, but will give you a feel of how the larger $100 engine shed kit would go together. A building like this certainly can find a home somewhere in your layout servicing area.
http://www.btsrr.com/bts7501.htm
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
G Paine I would go with one from the same line of kits because their construction would be similar.
Excellent advice, George. I recently built a Bar-Mills filling station. An excellent kit by any measure but just slightly different than the AMB LaserKit caboose I show above. Many common techniques but, just like their plastic counterparts, some variation creeps in, frequently in the construction steps or thoroughness and accuracy of the instructions.
G Paine I would avoid Campbell for now . Nothing wrong with them, but they are "old school" kits, i.e. a box full of strip wood and wood sheet that you have to cut all the shapes.
I was thinking the same thing but it seems like the old plaid box has learned some new tricks...
http://www.campbellscalemodels.com/category_s/68.htm
Regards, Ed
I suggest you start with the handcar shed by B.T.S. It has 2 doors and a window so it will give you experience working with those features.
I found that laser kits are somewhat different than the old box of sticks kits or scratchbuilding. Not that you couldn't start with those.
I also find a difference from plastic kits is that wood kits take longer and usually require some sanding and fitting to get everything right.
Good luck
Paul
I agree with George and Ed on the Campbells coaling tower. However, if you can build the Campbells kit, you should have no problems with laser kits. Thing with laser kits is they generally are quite accurate, the parts are designed to fit, and the materials used are intended to expedite your work. A Campbell kit requires you to cut most parts to size and that requires far more skill than the laser kit usually does. Then everything has to be assembled by you to fit, so lots of room for errors if you're unfamiliar with the process.
Mine came out OK, but it was one of the more challenging kits I've done.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
Hi!
Your plight has been experienced by many - including me. Decades ago I began buying car and structure kits that were much more sophisticated than what I was used to building. Some went well, but the remainder of the kits was left on the closet shelf until I felt up to building them.
Thankfully in the last eight or so years I managed to build all of them, for my skill levels and patience and available time improved since my first efforts.
My point is this... get the kits you are attracted to, and give them a shot. If you find you can't do them justice, then just put them back on the shelf for a later time down the road when "the right time arrives".
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I don't necessarily agree with the suggestions that you start with a smaller, simpler kit from B.T.S. or that you start with a kit from a different manufacturer.
I have built the three shanty structures from B.T.S., and they are relatively easier to build and, more importantly, fun to build. The instructions for B.T.S. kits are outstanding and far superior to the typical instruction set included with, say, Walthers plastic kits.
In looking at the instruction set for the 2-stall engine house, I don't see any problem with you beginning with this particular structure. The key with these kits is to use patience and focus to get it right.
My vote is to give the 2-stall engine house a try.
Rich
Alton Junction
After thinking it over, I think I may have been wrong when I suggested Campbell as a starter. There's nothing at all wrong with Campbell kits, but others have mentioned the greater precision of the laser kits. I'm not familiar with the BTS kit you're interested in, but was assuming it may be more complex because it's bigger. Actually, all these kits are basically the same. Some have more parts and are bigger. That just means building them is about the same as bulding two or three smaller ones. There are more steps, and it will take longer, and the finished product will be bigger. But the complexity and difficulty are probably about the same. Don't be scared.
Tom, you are exactly correct about the B.T.S. kits. Building a larger one is the same as building 2 or 3 smaller ones.
Yeah, i'm thinking about just jumping in. At worst, i overpaid for some kindling, right?
Stu:
RastafarrAt worst, i overpaid for some kindling, right?
Wrong! At worst you overpaid for some sweet scratch building material!!
Jump in! The water's just fine!
Rastafarr Yeah, i'm thinking about just jumping in. At worst, i overpaid for some kindling, right? Stu
Alright. Gonna do it. I think i need to get my structure plan nailed down before i get much further anyway. it'll be a few weeks until i can order it but i'll check in once i've got a box of sticks in hand.
Thanks to all for their advice, encouragement, smartassery, etc!
All of the above are excellent ideas and suggestions.
I've built several craftsman type kits over the years and while they are challenging they are best approached by taking one step at a time. Don't look at the final product and feel that it might be beyond your skill set.
Read the entire set of instructions from first to last so you can get an idea of what will be happening during each stage of construction. Organize all the parts/pieces and then go back and carefully re-read the first paragraph and go to work. Don't get rushed and remember that wood glue does take a little time to form a reasonably solid bond. Work for a while and then let things sit while you do something else. You'll also need several blades for an X-Acto type knife as using a dull blade will cause endless frustration along with uneven cuts.
If staining is required it is best done prior to construction as any glue residue on a wood surface will easily be seen after staining. In fact glue, for the most part, won't take a stain. So you might stain some wood pieces, let them dry overnight and then begin construction the following day.
Wayne
Modeling HO Freelance Logging Railroad.
Rastafarr it'll be a few weeks until i can order it but i'll check in once i've got a box of sticks in hand.
That's good! In addition to all the good advice above, I'd suggest getting a selection of good, flat weights handy. Especially with an engine house where there isn't too much in the way of internal bracing (i.e. walls and partitions) and since the interior will be easily viewed, you will want to be sure to have a dead-flat surface and a decent way to hold those long wall sections true while the adhesive sets.
Having these things ready before hand makes the job go all that much smoother.
Rastafarrbut i'll check in once i've got a box of sticks in hand.
You'll probably find the laser-cut kits are more like a box of sheets rather than individual strip wood. Some may be plywood, basswood and for some parts they use "Taskboard" a type of micro-chip board. Not quite cardstock but still prone to warping if it gets too damp without support. Get a ready supply of #11 blades for freeing the parts from the sheets.
Have Fun! Ed
Good point, Ed, about the sheets.
Here is a link to the B.T.S. web site with an example of the sheets.
http://www.btsrr.com/btsgen01.htm
There are also sample instruction sheets at that link.