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thanks Phil for the endorsement, but I think those who have already reponded have given you some very practical suggestions. The only 'problem' - let's call it a challenge - would be finding ready-made cabinets shallow enough, and at the right height for the eleven feet by 18 " of benchwork for your yard. Is the yard being constructed on a flat surface, as I would expect most yards would be? Check to determine that your floor is level before you start. Here's what I'd consider doing - Depending on the height of your layout, I'd construct a platform out of 2x4s, or even larger dimensioned lumber, like 2x8s or 2x10s, that would rest on the floor, then attach a 3/4" plywood base on top of it. I'd make the platform a little narrower than your bench top width to allow for a toe kick on each side. For a finished width for the yard, I'd make it about 15" wide, yielding a 1 1/2 " clearance for your feet on each side, and I'd do something similar at the end that will be not attached to the rest of the layout. Space cross bracing of 2x4s (or larger2x mat'l) every couple of feet between the long side rails. The more the better, as they'll only be approx 12" long max. Do not lay the 2x material flat, but use it on end. I would avoid simply butt joining the 2x mat'l together with nails, but rather use screws, and a form of triangular bracing (a triangle shaped pc of 3/4 " plywood screwed in each corner - will do just fine (and be cost effective). Don't waste your time gluing any butt joined pcs together, because a long-grain to end-grain glue joint is about useless. This sucker is going to be heavy, and that's what you want - it will place a lot of weight down low. By screwing the base together will permit it to be later disassembled and moved out of the room if necessary. On top of that, mount inexpensive upper kitchen cabinets, which are shallower (approx 12") than base cabinets (typically 22-24" deep) which would be too deep for your 18" yard. You might find other cabinets designed for garages or closets that may differ in how deep (or shallow) they are. Keep in mind that narrow aisles will dictate how wide a cabinet door you'll be able to use. You don't want a 36" wide door opening into a 30" aisle - it won't. Don't forget that you'll probably want to finish off an exposed side of the cabinet w/ either 1/8" or 1/4" plywood. Suggest you screw or bolt each cabinet to the next one for added strength. Use fender washers. Using the typical 12" deep cabinets allows you room to attach a back to them using plywood (1/4" is fine), and for a couple dollars more you can upgrade to birch or oak from the typical ugly "shop looking" fir plywood. Birch takes paint extremely well, and would be far less distracting (than the dramatic grain of oak) in a model railroad setting. The backs of cabinets are usually open and offer little nailing or screwing surface for such backing, so you may want to glue and screw some simple 1x or 2 x material on the inside lip of each side, and on the inside lip of the top and bottom of each cabinet.. You could also attach some long shallow shelves to the back of the cabinets - just use 1x3 (approx 3/4" x 2 1/2" nominal) poplar (it also takes paint extremely well, and is cheper than pine, and more stable), and simply screw them to the outside face of the 1/4 " plywood on the horizontal (for the actual shelves), w/ vertical members at each end. That would stiffen up the back tremendously. You could store overflow rolling stock on these shelves, but be careful about your knees knocking into them. I'd mount code 100 flex track on each shelf, for the trains would have less tendency to be knocked onto the floor, if on track. You'll require a piece of plywood on top of the cabinets to seal them off from things falling into their open tops. Look under the counter tops in your kitchen to see how the counter tops are typically attached to the base cabinets. Almost any dimension plywood will work for a stiffener for the top. I'd suggest 1/2" or 3/4", since you'll have some most likely left over from ther base platform. Screw - do not glue - the top to the manufacturer installed corner braces on each cabinet. You can finish off the exposed edges of plywood w/ a very thin self-adhearing 3/4" wide strip of matching veneer tape banding. Again, depending on the finished height of the layout, you could add some simple framework - 1x3s even - or even sorta like piers that would be sized to the actual dimension needed to gain the finished height . Leaving this framework open will permit you to access wiring under your layout, and especially any switch machines and related 'hardware' requiring maintainence. I'd screw such a framework together, and it will be fairly light. Again liberal use of cross braces will stiffen it up a bunch. Look at how a typical 'face frame' is constructed on the face of a kitchen cabinet for ideas how to construct this framework. If you're familair w/ biscuit jointers, or pocket hole joinery, either would be ideal for constructing this framework. Biscuit jointers require glue and an expensive dedicated $175-$225 tool. Pocket hole tooling is relatively inexpensive - approx. $50.00, plus a power drill and some specialized screws (avail. from the tooling manufacturer or a good hardware supplier). It is incredibly strong, can be disassembled if required, no glue is required, and it's quite easy to do. Recommend Kreg pocket hole joinery tooling (best bang for the buck is called their "Pocket Rocket"). (note to Bergie - that is what they call it, and not a 'dirty' expresssion) Finally attach your yard layout plywood to the framework with simple inexpensive steel angle brackets. A cost savings alternative would be to not have a continuous bank of cabinets, but just three or so joined together by the upper and lower pieces of plywood. You would need to most likely fabricate thin 1/8" or 1/4" (better) sides to each cabinet for both strength and a finished appearance. If you can. attach one end of this platform to the rest of ther layout to keep it from tipping, although that would be highly unlikey, but if it did, you may not be able to lift it back because of it's weight ! Remember it is quite tall and narrow. . . Do not substitute MDF for the plywood, because it is too heavy and requires painting on all surfaces because it is prone to soaking up moisture and forming mildew in certain environments. Also, MDF is usually manufactured with fermaldehydes, as are some plywoods-esp those from SE Asia such as 'virolia' (sometimes passed off as a type of birch or oak) and nicknamed 'stinky oak' - it is neither a birch or an oak, and does stink, because it is made from fallen logs that have been immersed in stinky ponds full of nasty critters, and you'll be smelling the stinky pond water, as well as the fermaldehydes which takes a long time to go away. Fermaldehydes are not healthy to breath in, especially in enclosed spaces, such as in a room where you'll be spending a lot of time - running your railroad. This platform can be later used in a different configuration because it can be completely disassembled, and the pieces rearranged. It will also be able to be taken apart for moving it out of the room later on. Load up the cabinets with your heavy stuff on the bottom, and this sucker is not going anywhere. All of these materials can be purchased at a local home center, and if you don't have access to a table saw or other power saw, determine your exact measurements and have the store cut all the pieces to length and width for you. It may only cost a few dollars extra to get that done. The Kreg pocket hole jig and screws can be ordered from numerous suppliers online - try Tool Crib of the North, Rockler, or Woodcraft. They may have a retail location depending upon where you live. All three are excellent to deal with. For used cabinets, you might try Habitat for Humaniy resale outlets if you have one in your locale. I'd avoid cheap and flimsy particleboard construction cabinets, because it is very difficult to attach anything to it with screws. Hope this has been helpful, and now I need to get back in the shop !
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