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Fascia Screws?

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Fascia Screws?
Posted by Metro Red Line on Sunday, February 7, 2016 2:41 AM

What kind of screws do you use to secure your masonite/hardboard fascias?

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Posted by John Busby on Sunday, February 7, 2016 3:39 AM

Hi Metro Red Line

Well concidering my facia is lining boards I use countersunc wood screws.

If I was using masonite or bending ply I would use washer headed screws.

regards John

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Posted by mobilman44 on Sunday, February 7, 2016 5:33 AM

I have used coarse thread sheetrock screws, with the holes slightly countersunk.  You can fill in the screw slots with spackle or just paint over them. 

Actually, my entire layout (15x11 two level with 54 2x2 legs) is put together with coarse thread sheetrock/deck screws.  They work like a charm!

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

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Posted by Guy Papillon on Sunday, February 7, 2016 6:25 AM

#6 wood screws and cup washers.

Guy

Modeling CNR in the 50's

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Posted by BroadwayLion on Sunday, February 7, 2016 6:48 AM

MAGNETS. LION holds the Masonite of him up with Magnets.

Metal plates are glued to the back of the masonite, magnets are glued to the stand-offs that will support the masionite. A wooden block keeps the masonite from slipping down, yet LION can simply remove the Masonite to access the wires on the sub-fascia.

ROAR

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

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Posted by BATMAN on Sunday, February 7, 2016 10:56 AM

I was just at a fastener shop the other day to get something unrelated and thought I would check out what they had that I could use for the fascia. There are so many options  available it is hard to recommend just one. I really like the clean (no screws) look so I like lions magnet method. I may look at using industrial velcro, they have it at all the big box stores.

The layout will be coming down one day, so spackling over the screws is out. I want easy access to undo them. There are various screws and bolts that you can buy head covers that pop on. Like I said, lots of choices.Smile

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, February 7, 2016 10:57 AM

 Mine was like Guy's, only not with the Robertson screws, those aren't common in the US. It's a Canadian thing. Big Smile

                   --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by rrebell on Sunday, February 7, 2016 11:07 AM

I use a carpet stapler. Bought one for a project once and the tool paid for itself  but like most tools was paid for but kept. Tried it on my masonite facia and it worked great with only a smidge of a staple hole to fill, so small I missed a few on my first spackle round.

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Posted by selector on Sunday, February 7, 2016 1:44 PM

I countersink with the appropriate bit, then use only a 1/2" Robertson retaining screw with a thread meant for wood.  The head of the screw is conical, so it sets into the countersunk orifice nicely.

I use Roberstons exclusively.  While my Phillips head bits chatter out and in and ruin the screw heads, my Robertson bits are what eventually get rounded corners, but almost never ruining the screws.

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Posted by keystonecrossings on Sunday, February 7, 2016 5:42 PM
#6 wood screws with cup/finishing washers.

Jerry Britton

Modeling the Pennsylvania Railroad's Middle Division in the early 1950s

http://pennsyrr.com

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Posted by wabash2800 on Sunday, February 7, 2016 10:17 PM

I use the same thing I do on benchwork, dry wall screws. But never use them with treated lumber. I ram them in real good so I don't have to counterskink them.

I will cover with spakling or putty and then paint, but that will be a while.

Victor A. Baird

Fort Wayne, Indiana

 

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Posted by tomikawaTT on Monday, February 8, 2016 2:42 AM

Lion, thanks for an idea.  Only thing is, I'm going to use it in reverse.

When I cut and mount my fascia panels, I'll fasten magnets to the back of the Masonite.  That way, they'll simply stick to the steel stud material I use for mounting brackets.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

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Posted by BATMAN on Monday, February 8, 2016 10:14 AM

tomikawaTT
When I cut and mount my fascia panels, I'll fasten magnets to the back of the Masonite. That way, they'll simply stick to the steel stud material I use for mounting brackets.

Now that's a good idea! Another plus for using steel studs.Thumbs Up

 

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

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Posted by kasskaboose on Monday, February 8, 2016 10:38 AM

I use 3/4" screws that get covered with putty before painting the masonite.  I don't counter-sink the screws since they top is quite small.  There's no reason to use a really long screw since 1x2s hold up the masonie every 2 feet.

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Posted by last mountain & eastern hogger on Monday, February 8, 2016 11:04 AM

Whistling

This is my method as well.

#6 wood screws with cup/finishing washers.

But I do really like the idea of bringing the wiring to the front of the benchwork and covering it with the facia.  I have not done that and it would be quite a bit of work to change that, but I think it is well worth considering.

Johnboy out.

from Saskatchewan, in the Great White North.. 

We have met the enemy,  and he is us............ (Pogo)

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Posted by Southgate on Thursday, February 11, 2016 12:50 AM

I ude the little cup washers like Guy's too. Available at auto parts stores for a king's ransom, or Home Depot cheap.

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Posted by WilmJunc on Thursday, February 11, 2016 6:07 AM

I still need to install the facia board.  I am planning on going with counter sunk drywall screws covered by  spackle or wood putty.

Modeling the B&M Railroad during the transition era in Lowell, MA

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Posted by Guy Papillon on Thursday, February 11, 2016 3:21 PM

Here are two reasons why I prefer to use wood screw with cup washers :

1- Protecting the fascia with a plastic sheet (back off the screw a little bit, insert the pasltic sheet, tighten the screw to hold the pastic sheet) while painting or putting ground cover near the edge of the layout.

2- Removing the fascia to have access to the wiring.

Maybe I will change my mind in the future and will like to have a permanent fascia. But that will not be before the layout will be completely finished. Don't know in how many years though. Big Smile

 

Guy

Modeling CNR in the 50's

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Posted by yougottawanta on Thursday, February 11, 2016 9:04 PM

Metro red

That question like asking how many ways can you skin a cat ?

There are many good answers posted here. It depends on the look, whether you will need access later to the area.

For a smooth finish and no access later a counter sunk hole , drywall ( wood has a course thread not metal which has a finer head or self cutting tip ) screw and wood putty over the hole will do the job.

For different look like mentioned earlier you can use the ring washer with a silver/chrome colored screw.

For quick easy attachment you could use a finish drywall screw which has a small head and requires a sqaure tip to screw it in. 

It you want a rivet look you might want to counter sink and install a drywall screw and then glue a oak rail button over the screw to make it look like riveted metal.

Another simple and easy install is a pan head screw. You might want to use a small flat washer with this screw. 

So as you can see there are many ways to accomplish the task or "to skin the cat " 

YGW

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Posted by wickman on Friday, February 12, 2016 3:55 PM

Guy Papillon

#6 wood screws and cup washers.

 

This is what I use. Just need to pick  proper sized screw for the cups.

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