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DCC Decoder Help
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Hello John, <br /> <br />The decoder should have come with a set of instructions indicating which wire goes to which pin or solder point. However, if it didn't here's the sequence. <br /> <br />The National Model Railroad Association's Digital Command Control (DCC) socket is configured this way: <br /> <br />1 8 <br />2 7 <br />3 6 <br />4 5 <br /> <br />Orange wire (motor feed from right-rail pickup)goes to pin 1. <br /> <br />Gray wire (motor feed from left-rail pickup) goes to pin 5. <br /> <br />Red wire (right-rail power pickup) to pin 8. <br /> <br />Black wire (left-rail power pickup) to pin 4. <br /> <br />White wire (forward headlight) to pin 6. <br /> <br />Yellow wire (rear headlight) to pin 2. <br /> <br />Blue wire (function common) as the return from the yellow and white wires. <br /> <br />I recommend using a 25-watt soldering iron, thin-diameter 60/40 rosin-core solder, and rosin flux for soldering decoders. Make sure the tip of the iron is clean and shiny with solder, without a blob of solder built up on it, and apply the flux with the tip of a toothpick. A little solder ought to do the trick. <br /> <br />I drill a hole at the "X" with a no. 60 drill bit, then widen the hole with the tip of a new no. 11 hobby knife blade until I'm satisfied that the copper circuitry has been severed where needed. <br /> <br />I suggest conecting only the first four wires, then testing the installation. The decoder is pre-set from the factory to address 03, so dial that address into your throttle. Make sure the remaining decoder wires are isolated from one another, and give the locomotive a try. It should move smoothly in forward and reverse. <br /> <br />If not, check the decoder connections, look for any "Xs" you might have missed or ones that aren't completely cut through, make sure the track has power, and try again. <br /> <br />Hope this helps, <br /> <br />Paul Schmidt <br />Contributing Editor <br />Trains.com
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