To all,What is the best method of laying the foam subroadbed to the wood top of my benchwork?Thanks for your helpAl
By 'foam subroadbed' do you mean a sheet of insulation foam and not Woodland Scenics foam roadbed? To fasten sheet insulation foam to wood, the product we use is plain latex caulk. Weight is put on the foam to give the caulk time to set.
Hello All,
I used paneling screws (they look like drywall screws with a different pitch) and finishing washers countersunk into the 1-inch foam. The finishing washers look like cups. This enables the washer to bite into the foam and hold it in place.
The reasoning behind this method was so I could cut the foam down to the wooden base and not have to deal with the glue for much cleaner cuts.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Thanks to all who answered...
Al
I'd strongly advise using a level to make sure it's flat in all directions. Unless your carpentry is better than mine, which isn't asking too much, you may need to add some shims to get the foam to sit truly flat. Your trains will appreciate this effort.
If you haven't done it already, drill holes and run bus wires for track, control and accessory lighting power before you glue down the foam. It's a lot easier to do that from above than from below.
Oh, and welcome aboad!
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I use dime sized dots of PL300 adhesive in a one foot grid pattern; add weights overnight. Plenty of hold and you can pop the dots off with minimal interruption to the scenery on the surface. Don't ask how I know this ;0)Dan
I've become less and less a fan of foam where there's a lot of switches involved.
But...as someone suggested, latex caulk, using sparingly with tons of weight on top. Use a 4, or 6 foot level to make sure it's flat.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!