Hello All,
After not being active in the hobby for about 25 years, I have finally got the time and inclination to get back in. Thankfully, I stockpiled stuff over the last 25 years, and don't have to buy much at today's prices. I'm not complaining about the expense of the hobby, everything is expensive today. Enough of that.
Although I am still laying track and doing wiring, I occassionally get to run a train, build a kit or otherwise enjoy my hobby time. I have noticed a few things have changed in 25 years (big shock, right?), and thought I would opine here and see if any of you care to chime in.
First thing I noticed was the death (or at least the terminal illness) of the horn-hook (oft mis-named NMRA) coupler (oh yeah, I'm in HO scale). However, the plastic knuckle couplers I have used so far (on RTR cars I bought so equipt) have gone into the garbage. They don't center right, which cause both coupling and uncoupling problems. I have a supply of Kadee #5's so I'm all set (I only wish the scale coupler was available when I started "collecting" couplers).
Wheel sets - many cars now come with non-magnetic metal wheels and axles. Wonderful! IMO, that was long over due (as was the use of standard knuckle couplers, but I know the patent Kadee had probably stopped that from happening back in the day).
Uncouplers - I used to use the Kadee electro magnets (mainline and passing sidings) and beneath the ties magnets (dead end tracks). A few months back I somehow got informed about rare earth magnets, specifically Neodymium magnets. I use the 1/8" x 3/16" cylinders and bury them in the roadbed. So far the only issue I have is spotting the cars in the right place to uncouple them (it is fairly critical since I only use two "piles" of 2 magnets each, near each rail, between the ties). I may use some type of optical sensor (a lot of work) or change to walk around control (I use DC).
Cork roadbed - I haven't used cork since the 1970's (last layouts used Homasote), and the cork dried out and was kinda crumby. The cork I am using now (Midwest) seems to have some sort of rubber content and even though I bought it in 2005, it is still very flexible. I have a lot of Shinohara (Walthers) code 83 turnouts and have spiked them to the cork using the spike holes provided in the track. So far, the spikes are holding quite well in the cork. I'm impressed.
General impression of the hobby - Wow! I am amazed that so many manufacturers are making so many road-specfic models. Yes, the days of the $20 Athearn Geep are gone, but the running quality, detail and crafstmanship (in most cases) is fantastic. Several years ago I bought a Bachmann 2-6-0 (not Spectrum, regular Bachmann line). I put it on the rails and could not believe how well it ran. The state of the model railroad art is awesome.
Social media and online archives - what a great source of info. Back in 1989 I was involved with starting an historical society. One of the driving forces behind doing so was that I was having trouble finding data on the railroads that interested me. Now there is so much data, photos, books, etc. available that I am overwhelmed. I only wish I wasn't so old - I wonder what the next 50 years will bring us!
Keep it between the rails.
Well, Mickey, welcome back!
probably one of the biggest changes since you've been away from the hobby is the popularity of digital command control (DCC). Many of us (including me) still use DC control, but as more companies are getting into the DCC act, the features and performance are getting increasingly good, as well as its' user-friendliness.
As you are in HO, there is so much more available in accessories, detail parts (for both rolling equipment and scenery) as well as raw materials for scratchbuilding and tools. There, of couse have been many many more structure kits available, from beginner to craftsman products.
There are many other changes that have come along that do not come to mind at the moment, that others will likely post here. Its a great time to be in this hobby! The creative possibilities are endless. Have fun!
MikeyChris Hello All, After not being active in the hobby for about 25 years, I have finally got the time and inclination to get back in. Thankfully, I stockpiled stuff over the last 25 years
After not being active in the hobby for about 25 years, I have finally got the time and inclination to get back in. Thankfully, I stockpiled stuff over the last 25 years
I guess by that standard I haven't been active in the hobby either because for the past 15 years I haven't had a space for a layout, but I have been actively collecting to build a roster, doing research etc., and building kits here and there - is that not active? Anyway, I hope besides the prices your shock has been a good kind, because the rolling stock offered in the past 10 years had been nothing short of awsome, at least for SP and D&RGW fans - PC&F box cars, FMC box cars, Bay window cabooses, Tunnel motors with nice details etc. and much much more!
First thing I noticed was the death (or at least terminally ill) of the horn-hook (oft mis-named NMRA)
You make it sound like a bad thing! :p For many of us, the death of the NRMA horn hook has been a mixed blessing. The best coupler to use has always been and still is Kadee though it's a small consolation that you can operate most rolling stock out of the box now - but all is not well.
By way of example, I recently pulled out 20 of my Athearn RTR (upgraded MDC) Thrall coal gons and ran them at a modular layout (BTW they are nice cars, but came with McHenry couplers from Athearn). The train randomly uncoupled in different places in the train while being run on a modular layout, exhibiting the reason why Kadee is still the gold standard - the plastic finger that acts like the Kadee closer spring on the McHenry couplers, became fatigued while in storage so the couplers don't reliably stay closed. I have over 100 of those cars that will all need Kadee's - I suspected it, but it's now confirmed and that will cost quite a bit, even in bulk packs. Well, nobody said the hobby was cheap!
But, the good news is Intermountain, ExactRail and Tangent RTR cars all come with Kadee's and Walthers newer cars come with a good metal Kadee clone. Now if Athearn and Atlas will just get with the program?
Yes, wonderful, I'm happy too. I have far fewer models to convert as most of the ones I've bought in the last 10 years came with metal wheelsets. Kadee only had the patent on the coupler btw, I don't think they prevented companies from including metal wheels. But I've been wrong before.
I've got some 15 year old cork I may go ahead and use but I got some new cork at MB Kleins last year I just laid, it's not that much different that I can see other than being fresh and more flexible. BTW, I am an old school person and hate gluing track down, still use spike, or track nails on plywood and cork or homasote - main yard is homasote which is painted.
Bingo! Things cost more but there WAY more nice models available. I've been able to buy D&RGW diesels that actually have the nose signal light now and plow, which look basically as good as brass, or very close (Athearn RTR SD40T-2, SD45T-2 has tons of prototypical detail etc), there have been lots of car by car passenger trains now made (Walthers El Capitan, Chief, Broadway Ltd, Union Pacific City of, California Zephyr, SP Daylight, etc.). Just recently Tangent released the Pennsy/PC X58 box car with gorgeous detail! ExactRail has many lovely cars great for 1960-2000+ and on it goes.
Yes, and Digital Command Control has as standard that lets all DCC decoders work with any DCC system like Digitrax, NCE, Lenz, MRC, Easy DCC and rest.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
E-L man tom Well, Mickey, welcome back!
Thanx Tom.
E-L man tom probably one of the biggest changes since you've been away from the hobby is the popularity of digital command control (DCC).
probably one of the biggest changes since you've been away from the hobby is the popularity of digital command control (DCC).
Yes, I am familiar with DCC. I have stayed somewhat current by reading, and have been to a few train shows (not many in this part of the planet). DCC is great, buty I have over 200 locos and really wasn't up to installing all those decoders. I know i could run both DC & DCC, but decided I didn't want to be distracted by another "sub-hobby". Besides, I was a techie for over 50 years, and I want a break from electronics
E-L man tom As you are in HO, there is so much more available in accessories, detail parts (for both rolling equipment and scenery) as well as raw materials for scratchbuilding and tools. There, of couse have been many many more structure kits available, from beginner to craftsman products.
I know! It's trully amazing that the hobby can support so many products, but I'm happy it can. One thing I won't miss is the plaster scenery thing. Although, I may still make some rock castings. Since the trainroom is carpeted, I wanna keep the mess to a minimum.
Thanx again for the comments.
MikeyChrisFirst thing I noticed was the death (or at least the terminal illness) of the horn-hook (oft mis-named NMRA) coupler (oh yeah, I'm in HO scale).
The X2F coupler was designed by the NMRA as a standard coupler but,the membership never approved the X2F as the standard coupler.
The X2F coupler played a very important part as far as standardizing the couplers manufacturers would use.No longer would manufacturers include couplers in their kits that was incompatible with other manufacturer's couplers.
The majority of us used X2F couplers back in the day since once properly mounted those couplers worked quite well.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
riogrande5761 I guess by that standard I haven't been active in the hobby either because for the past 15 years I haven't had a space for a layout, but I have been actively collecting to build a roster, doing research etc., and building kits here and there - is that not active?
I guess by that standard I haven't been active in the hobby either because for the past 15 years I haven't had a space for a layout, but I have been actively collecting to build a roster, doing research etc., and building kits here and there - is that not active?
I would say that is quite active. Actually, your experiences pretty much are the same as mine. I said I was inactive, but that really only means as far as building models.
riogrande5761 Anyway, I hope besides the prices your shock has been a good kind, because the rolling stock offered in the past 10 years had been nothing short of awsome, at least for SP and D&RGW fans - PC&F box cars, FMC box cars, Bay window cabooses, Tunnel motors with nice details etc. and much much more!
Anyway, I hope besides the prices your shock has been a good kind, because the rolling stock offered in the past 10 years had been nothing short of awsome, at least for SP and D&RGW fans - PC&F box cars, FMC box cars, Bay window cabooses, Tunnel motors with nice details etc. and much much more!
Absolutely the good kind. And it wasn't a total surprise as I was buying things, reading mags & books, participating online, etc. I model the Canadian National family and when I started (back in the early 80's) you could count the CN plastic models on your fingers (and those were usually "imagineered" or fantasy paint jobs). Now there are a bizillion if them, most of those are fairly accurate and available in a variety of paint schemes. It's all good.
riogrande5761 First thing I noticed was the death (or at least terminally ill) of the horn-hook (oft mis-named NMRA)
riogrande5761 Yes, and Digital Command Control has as standard that lets all DCC decoders work with any DCC system like Digitrax, NCE, Lenz, MRC, Easy DCC and rest.
BRAKIE The X2F coupler was designed by the NMRA as a standard coupler but,the membership never approved the X2F as the standard coupler. The X2F coupler played a very important part as far as standardizing the couplers manufacturers would use.No longer would manufacturers include couplers in their kits that was incompatible with other manufacturer's couplers. The majority of us used X2F couplers back in the day since once properly mounted those couplers worked quite well.
MikeyChrisI would say that is quite active. Actually, your experiences pretty much are the same as mine. I said I was inactive, but that really only means as far as building models. I model the Canadian National family and when I started (back in the early 80's) you could count the CN plastic models on your fingers (and those were usually "imagineered" or fantasy paint jobs). Now there are a bizillion if them, most of those are fairly accurate and available in a variety of paint schemes.
Not a bad thing, a glorious thing! I stopped using those couplers when I was a teen ager back in the stone ages. Kadee is the only brand for me. I have tried several other knuckle couplers, but was unimpressed.
snjroyI will get flak for this, but the biggest changes for me have been DCC and Ebay.
The major change I see is that 25 years ago if you wanted super detailed rolling stock it was brass or do it yourself, now I can buy RTR that is better looking than what I could do, and I have skills. Locos were the same thing. Even 25 years ago code 83 was becoming the code of choice and as for couplers, Kadee #5 was the choice and had been for a long time but they didn't have the clones. Hobby paints have become, overall, less toxic too and better glues.
rrebell The major change I see is that 25 years ago if you wanted super detailed rolling stock it was brass or do it yourself, now I can buy RTR that is better looking than what I could do, and I have skills.
The major change I see is that 25 years ago if you wanted super detailed rolling stock it was brass or do it yourself, now I can buy RTR that is better looking than what I could do, and I have skills.
MikeyChris Hello All, After not being active in the hobby for about 25 years, I have finally got the time and inclination to get back in. Thankfully, I stockpiled stuff over the last 25 years, and don't have to buy much at today's prices. I'm not complaining about the expense of the hobby, everything is expensive today. Enough of that. Although I am still laying track and doing wiring, I occassionally get to run a train, build a kit or otherwise enjoy my hobby time. I have noticed a few things have changed in 25 years (big shock, right?), and thought I would opine here and see if any of you care to chime in. First thing I noticed was the death (or at least the terminal illness) of the horn-hook (oft mis-named NMRA) coupler (oh yeah, I'm in HO scale). However, the plastic knuckle couplers I have used so far (on RTR cars I bought so equipt) have gone into the garbage. They don't center right, which cause both coupling and uncoupling problems. I have a supply of Kadee #5's so I'm all set (I only wish the scale coupler was available when I started "collecting" couplers). Wheel sets - many cars now come with non-magnetic metal wheels and axles. Wonderful! IMO, that was long over due (as was the use of standard knuckle couplers, but I know the patent Kadee had probably stopped that from happening back in the day). Uncouplers - I used to use the Kadee electro magnets (mainline and passing sidings) and beneath the ties magnets (dead end tracks). A few months back I somehow got informed about rare earth magnets, specifically Neodymium magnets. I use the 1/8" x 3/16" cylinders and bury them in the roadbed. So far the only issue I have is spotting the cars in the right place to uncouple them (it is fairly critical since I only use two "piles" of 2 magnets each, near each rail, between the ties). I may use some type of optical sensor (a lot of work) or change to walk around control (I use DC). Cork roadbed - I haven't used cork since the 1970's (last layouts used Homasote), and the cork dried out and was kinda crumby. The cork I am using now (Midwest) seems to have some sort of rubber content and even though I bought it in 2005, it is still very flexible. I have a lot of Shinohara (Walthers) code 83 turnouts and have spiked them to the cork using the spike holes provided in the track. So far, the spikes are holding quite well in the cork. I'm impressed. General impression of the hobby - Wow! I am amazed that so many manufacturers are making so many road-specfic models. Yes, the days of the $20 Athearn Geep are gone, but the running quality, detail and crafstmanship (in most cases) is fantastic. Several years ago I bought a Bachmann 2-6-0 (not Spectrum, regular Bachmann line). I put it on the rails and could not believe how well it ran. The state of the model railroad art is awesome. Social media and online archives - what a great source of info. Back in 1989 I was involved with starting an historical society. One of the driving forces behind doing so was that I was having trouble finding data on the railroads that interested me. Now there is so much data, photos, books, etc. available that I am overwhelmed. I only wish I wasn't so old - I wonder what the next 50 years will bring us! Keep it between the rails.
I got out of the hobby about the same time you did but was not away for quite as long. My feelings pretty much echo yours. Yes I was glad to see the demise of the hornhook as the standard coupler and yest the KD clones are garbage as far as I am concerned. I had been throwing them away but recently I began stockpiling them and have been replacing the hornhooks on a lot of my old rolling stock and Athearn BB locos that I intend to sell to my LHS. If you have lots of KD #5s by all means use them. They are the gold standard of couplers. If you are going to buy new I would suggest looking at the KD 148 which is the same coupler except it is a one piece whisker coupler which doesn't require those brass centering springs which occasionally get damaged. I have left all those #5s in place because they still work fine but I use 148s for all new coupler replacements.
I have no experience with either electro-magnet uncouplers or those rare earth magnets. I did discover that putting KD undertrack uncouplers on the mainline was a mistake in that it was causing much unwanted uncoupling. I have since removed them and now only have them on spurs and in my classification yard. I might experiment with those rare earth magnets as an option for mainline uncoupling. Right now I do manual uncoupling using the tool which I can't remember if it is made by Rix or KD. I've also used bamboo skewers. I've tried the Rix magnetic uncoupling wand but I found it difficult to position on some of the rolling stock, particularly passenger cars with diaphragms.
I can't say I share your opinion of Bachmann standard line. I've had nothing but trouble with them. A few years ago I bought a Niagra which I didn't realize was standard line. Worst piece of junk I ever put on the layout. That front truck flopped around like a fish out of water and wouldn't stay on the track no matter how I adjusted it. It has found a permanent home on a track in my engine terminal as a static piece of scenery. I had the same trouble many years ago with a Consolidation and eventually I removed the front truck and made it an 0-8-0. Not so with the Spectrum Consolidation. I have two of them now and they are among my favorite locos. I have several other Spectrums as well.
It's been a long time since I used cork roadbed. I have used Woodland Scenics foam roadbed exclusively on my current layout which I began about a dozen years ago. I think it was a good choice.
Your biggest decision will be if you want to make the leap to DCC. It's certainly not necessary but one you might want to think about. It is an added expense but for me, it was well worth it, even if it did make all my old Athearn BB diesels and Rivarossi steamers obsolete.
WB Mikey! Theres been alot of changes since '90. Thats for sure. And alot of it promising, exciting stuff! We even have working water towers now.
Riddle me this: What do you get when you cross a skewer and a magnet?
PM Railfan
Answer: you get this -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRkOt_TiPpY
MikeyChrisUncouplers - I used to use the Kadee electro magnets (mainline and passing sidings) and beneath the ties magnets (dead end tracks). A few months back I somehow got informed about rare earth magnets, specifically Neodymium magnets. I use the 1/8" x 3/16" cylinders and bury them in the roadbed. So far the only issue I have is spotting the cars in the right place to uncouple them (it is fairly critical since I only use two "piles" of 2 magnets each, near each rail, between the ties). I may use some type of optical sensor (a lot of work) or change to walk around control (I use DC).
Thanks for your post. I've been back to HO trains for 3-plus years and yet overlooked prior posts on magnetic uncoupling options. I included two Kadee undertrack magnets in one of two yards but did not pick good spots, so I plan to pull them out. I have on hand some of the undertrack electromagnets but don't want to tear up the track. It's on cork but not yet ballasted. And I prefer to avoid the visible aspect of the between rails, above ties long fixed magnets. So (after finding and reading some relevant threads) I've ordered some cylindrical 1/8" x 3/8" magnets to try in the between ties, 3-pair arrangement. I like the idea of the easy addition, though I will give it a try first on a test track piece.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
peahrens MikeyChris Uncouplers - I used to use the Kadee electro magnets (mainline and passing sidings) and beneath the ties magnets (dead end tracks). A few months back I somehow got informed about rare earth magnets, specifically Neodymium magnets. I use the 1/8" x 3/16" cylinders and bury them in the roadbed. So far the only issue I have is spotting the cars in the right place to uncouple them (it is fairly critical since I only use two "piles" of 2 magnets each, near each rail, between the ties). I may use some type of optical sensor (a lot of work) or change to walk around control (I use DC). Thanks for your post. I've been back to HO trains for 3-plus years and yet overlooked prior posts on magnetic uncoupling options. I included two Kadee undertrack magnets in one of two yards but did not pick good spots, so I plan to pull them out. I have on hand some of the undertrack electromagnets but don't want to tear up the track. It's on cork but not yet ballasted. And I prefer to avoid the visible aspect of the between rails, above ties long fixed magnets. So (after finding and reading some relevant threads) I've ordered some cylindrical 1/8" x 3/8" magnets to try in the between ties, 3-pair arrangement. I like the idea of the easy addition, though I will give it a try first on a test track piece.
MikeyChris Uncouplers - I used to use the Kadee electro magnets (mainline and passing sidings) and beneath the ties magnets (dead end tracks). A few months back I somehow got informed about rare earth magnets, specifically Neodymium magnets. I use the 1/8" x 3/16" cylinders and bury them in the roadbed. So far the only issue I have is spotting the cars in the right place to uncouple them (it is fairly critical since I only use two "piles" of 2 magnets each, near each rail, between the ties). I may use some type of optical sensor (a lot of work) or change to walk around control (I use DC).
I'm going to look at these as well. I have a few spurs where the track is layed right on the plywood with no roadbed. Using an undermount would require mortising the plywood and if I was going to do that, it needed to be done before the track was ballasted. It would be a mess to do that now. The cylinder magnets do seem like an interesting option. I wonder if anyone has used these on mainline track and whether or not it causes unwanted uncoupling as the KD magnets sometimes do.
jecorbett I got out of the hobby about the same time you did but was not away for quite as long. My feelings pretty much echo yours... yes the KD clones are garbage as far as I am concerned. I had been throwing them away but recently I began stockpiling them and have been replacing the hornhooks on a lot of my old rolling stock and Athearn BB locos that I intend to sell to my LHS.
I got out of the hobby about the same time you did but was not away for quite as long. My feelings pretty much echo yours... yes the KD clones are garbage as far as I am concerned. I had been throwing them away but recently I began stockpiling them and have been replacing the hornhooks on a lot of my old rolling stock and Athearn BB locos that I intend to sell to my LHS.
I do the same. If I ever get back to selling off my unwanted trains on eBay or (more likely) some other site, it will be better to have some type of knuckle coupler than the old horn hooks on them.
jecorbett If you have lots of KD #5s by all means use them. They are the gold standard of couplers. If you are going to buy new I would suggest looking at the KD 148 which is the same coupler except it is a one piece whisker coupler which doesn't require those brass centering springs which occasionally get damaged. I have left all those #5s in place because they still work fine but I use 148s for all new coupler replacements.
If you have lots of KD #5s by all means use them. They are the gold standard of couplers. If you are going to buy new I would suggest looking at the KD 148 which is the same coupler except it is a one piece whisker coupler which doesn't require those brass centering springs which occasionally get damaged. I have left all those #5s in place because they still work fine but I use 148s for all new coupler replacements.
I have a few of the whisker couplers, and will buy more as I run out of #5's. I have already used some of the whisker types on some old Atlas (Roco-made) S-2's. Man, replacing the couplers on those guys was a chore. There is a piece below the coupler pocket (part of the pilot) that makes installing an old style Kadee quite challenging because the spring coupler and draft gear box cover must all be held in alignment while you insert the friction pin into them (with that piece of the pilot fighting you all the way).
jecorbett I have no experience with either electro-magnet uncouplers or those rare earth magnets. I did discover that putting KD undertrack uncouplers on the mainline was a mistake in that it was causing much unwanted uncoupling. I have since removed them and now only have them on spurs and in my classification yard. I might experiment with those rare earth magnets as an option for mainline uncoupling. Right now I do manual uncoupling using the tool which I can't remember if it is made by Rix or KD. I've also used bamboo skewers. I've tried the Rix magnetic uncoupling wand but I found it difficult to position on some of the rolling stock, particularly passenger cars with diaphragms.
I have both the Kadee uncoupling wand and an old Rix tool as well, and still prefer hands off uncoupling - but that is mainly because I do not have a walk in/around style layout. With a central control panel it is easier to remotely uncouple cars.
jecorbett I can't say I share your opinion of Bachmann standard line. I've had nothing but trouble with them. A few years ago I bought a Niagra which I didn't realize was standard line. Worst piece of junk I ever put on the layout. That front truck flopped around like a fish out of water and wouldn't stay on the track no matter how I adjusted it. It has found a permanent home on a track in my engine terminal as a static piece of scenery. I had the same trouble many years ago with a Consolidation and eventually I removed the front truck and made it an 0-8-0. Not so with the Spectrum Consolidation. I have two of them now and they are among my favorite locos. I have several other Spectrums as well.
I should have qualified my statement about Bachmann HO steamers. I too have a couple of the old (1970's era) Bachmann 4-8-4's and they run awful. I was going to buy Bowser replacement drives, but procrastinated too long and they are no longer manufactured. They are quite a project anyway - you have to pull the drivers (and quarter them of course) to re-use on the new drive. However, the newer (made in China I guess) small steamer impressed me. I have two versions of the 2-6-0 and one 0-6-. Both the 2-6-0's run very well. The 0-6-0 not as well (which is odd, because I think they share the same drive).
jecorbett It's been a long time since I used cork roadbed. I have used Woodland Scenics foam roadbed exclusively on my current layout which I began about a dozen years ago. I think it was a good choice.
I debated using foam roadbed (mainly for the sound insulation), but read an article about it being to soft and creating some issues (I can't recall the details). Anyway, if it works for you that's all that counts.
jecorbett Your biggest decision will be if you want to make the leap to DCC. It's certainly not necessary but one you might want to think about. It is an added expense but for me, it was well worth it, even if it did make all my old Athearn BB diesels and Rivarossi steamers obsolete.
jecorbettThe cylinder magnets do seem like an interesting option. I wonder if anyone has used these on mainline track and whether or not it causes unwanted uncoupling as the KD magnets sometimes do.
On cylinder (vertical beteeen the ties) uncoupling magnets, I found older threads that elaborated via the following google search. Sorry if not a clickable link, as I seem not to understand how to insert those successfully. EDIT: seems Insert/Link works whereas a direct right click / Paste does not (latter just looks like text).
https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&q=site%3A%20cs.trains.com%20uncoupler%20magnetic&oq=site%3A%20cs.trains.com&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i57j69i58.9453j0j7
peahrens ... So (after finding and reading some relevant threads) I've ordered some cylindrical 1/8" x 3/8" magnets to try in the between ties, 3-pair arrangement. I like the idea of the easy addition, though I will give it a try first on a test track piece.
... So (after finding and reading some relevant threads) I've ordered some cylindrical 1/8" x 3/8" magnets to try in the between ties, 3-pair arrangement. I like the idea of the easy addition, though I will give it a try first on a test track piece.
That should work out pretty well, I think. If I knew (when I ordered my magnets) that I needed 3/8" (height) magnets, I would have bought those instead of 3/16". As it turned out I found I needed a minimum of two 1/8"x3/16" magnets stacked vertically, and two columns (of two stacked) along the inside of each rail. You have to make sure that the poles on the same side of the track match (i.e. both North or both South), and that the stacks on the opposite side of the track have the opposite pole facing up. I hope I didn't confuse the issue there, I know I didn't explain that well.
I decided to only use two columns on each side of the track (rather than 3 to 5 as others had done) to try to keep false uncouplings to a minimum. The obvious downside is that the cars must be spotted rather precisely or they won't uncouple. Your choice of using 3 columns should make it easier to uncouple cars.
BTW, I found the magnets worked well if the top of the "stack" was slightly (less than 1/16", probably less than 1/32") above the ties. This places it well below the point that it would hit couple trip pins or other low-hanging parts.
I also saw a video in which a fella in N scale drove screws under each rail (obviously doing this while laying track so he could mark the location, remove the track then drive the screw) then let the magnets attach to the top of the countersunk screws. Seemed like a lot of work to me. I'm not sure why he did this, maybe the screw intensifies the magnetic field like the Kadee under tie magnet does (the steel plate that goes below the magnet).
Please post your findings here, I would like to know more about other people's experiences with these magnets.
peahrens ... I found older threads that elaborated via the following google search. Sorry if not a clickable link, as I seem not to understand how to insert those successfully. EDIT: seems Insert/Link works whereas a direct right click / Paste does not (latter just looks like text). https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&q=site%3A%20cs.trains.com%20uncoupler%20magnetic&oq=site%3A%20cs.trains.com&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i57j69i58.9453j0j7
... I found older threads that elaborated via the following google search. Sorry if not a clickable link, as I seem not to understand how to insert those successfully. EDIT: seems Insert/Link works whereas a direct right click / Paste does not (latter just looks like text).
You won't get flak from me on that. DCC first and foremost, but the ability to get train stuff online is revolutionary. We are a niche market, widely dispersed, but we still have access to thousands of products no physical store could ever stock.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.