What's the best way to determine if metal wheels are 33", 36", 38", etc if I don't have the package they came in? Where do I measure the wheel to find this out and do I need a special gauge?
Thanks.
JRP
Wheel diameter is measured where the tread begins to curve upward to the inside of the flange. The easiest tool to use is a caliper, but a scale ruler (or even an ordinary ruler and some mathematics) can be used for an eyeball approximation.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - where most wheels were 860mm diameter)
Here is the caliper measurements for my I-M wheel sets:
33" - .380
36" - .413
38" - .436
You should be able to 'eyeball' these by comparing the wheel sets. You can by a nice digital caliper in the $15 to $25 range from places like Harbor Freight or Micro-Mark....
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Thanks Jim. I have a caliper from Micro Mark and will check it out. Most of my rolling stock is older Athearns. Do you know if they use mostly 33" or 36"?
Thank you.
The vast majority of the older Athearn rolling stock would have used 33 inch wheels. 36 inch wheels only appear on newer types of rolling stock made to carry 100 tons or more.
It's usually not too difficult to determine if a wheel is 33 or 36 inch by holding two side by side.
JRPMost of my rolling stock is older Athearns. Do you know if they use mostly 33" or 36"?
Athearn's "rib side" (i.e. PS 4740) and Center Flow covered hoppers represent 100-ton cars, along with the 62' tank cars. Maybe the "heavy duty" flat car. Those would get 36" wheels.
The other older blue/yellow box kits would need 33" wheels.
Rob Spangler
jrbernier Here is the caliper measurements for my I-M wheel sets: 33" - .380 36" - .413 38" - .436 You should be able to 'eyeball' these by comparing the wheel sets. You can by a nice digital caliper in the $15 to $25 range from places like Harbor Freight or Micro-Mark.... Jim
I got a little digital caliper for Christmas last year and its one of the most indispensible tools I have. Its the 6 or 8 inch one that Micromark carries. I can't believe I went on without one for so long.
I may not have told you all correctly what I'm looking for. I could not replace the plastic wheels with metal wheels into the trucks on a blue box Athearn car. The metal "axle" was not long enough to fit securely in the truck axle "opening". I'd rather not have to buy all new trucks and wheel sets if I can just replace the plastic wheels with metal wheels (and axles too). Where do I measure the axle...from point to point or inside the wheel to determine the length I need. Do I make sense?
For axle length, measure from tip to tip(of the original 'working' axle). Reboxx makes various wheel sets with different axle lengths. What Athearn truck and what metal wheel set are you have a problem with. I have lots of Athearn 'Blue Box' freight cars, all using P2K(Walthers) or I-M metal wheel sets - None have the axles dropping out of the trucks. If you do need longer axle wheel sets, here is the Reboxx web URL:
http://www.reboxx.com/
JRPI could not replace the plastic wheels with metal wheels into the trucks on a blue box Athearn car. The metal "axle" was not long enough to fit securely in the truck axle "opening". I'd rather not have to buy all new trucks and wheel sets if I can just replace the plastic wheels with metal wheels (and axles too).
Ahhh... a common problem. The blue box roller bearing trucks especially make for an overly loose fit using some brands of wheelsets, like Intermountain. It seems to vary - some of the trucks are sloppier than others; one truck may work great with a given wheelset, and with the next the same axle will drop right out. Kadee's cast metal wheels have engineering plastic axles that fit differently compared to the typical metal axles, and they work well in any Athearn blue box truck I've tried them in. They are more prone to accumulating gunk due to voids in the sintered material, but can stay more or less clean for years.
Reboxx wheels are machined, and provided you get axles the right length should be an even better option. Accurail sells trucks without wheelsets cheap (as low as $8.98 for 6 pair), that work well with wheelsets that don't fit in Athearn trucks (i.e. you don't need to worry about special axle lengths), so may be a cost-effective alternative.
The above numbers are INCORRECT.
As Chuck pointed out where the wheel diameter is. It is NOT the flange diameter. This simple math. a 40" wheel would measure .25 inches. 40/160 = .25
a 36" wheel measures .225
a 33" wheel measures .20625
Measuring flange diameter is pretty much useless and varies between manufacturers.
It's the diameter of where the wheel meets the rail.
A genuine 33-inch diameter, long axle is ideal for Athearn's old blue box kits.
Alientheorist jrbernier Here is the caliper measurements for my I-M wheel sets: 33" - .380 36" - .413 38" - .436 You should be able to 'eyeball' these by comparing the wheel sets. You can by a nice digital caliper in the $15 to $25 range from places like Harbor Freight or Micro-Mark.... Jim The above numbers are INCORRECT. As Chuck pointed out where the wheel diameter is. It is NOT the flange diameter. This simple math. a 40" wheel would measure .25 inches. 40/160 = .25 a 36" wheel measures .225 a 33" wheel measures .20625 Measuring flange diameter is pretty much useless and varies between manufacturers. It's the diameter of where the wheel meets the rail.
I think the discussion was in HO scale (1:87), not N scale (1:160).
Please make another post and tell us about yourself so we can welcome you to the group.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Since the OP had wanted to change out all his BB plastic wheel/metal axle sets six years ago, I would guess he would have compleated this task by now. But if so, would one of those ''truck tuning'' tools had been a good investment at that time?
On my tuning tool I painted the cutting end's shaft red and the non cutting end's shaft green, both colors are seperated by the rubber collar. Makes for a super quick visual aid to know which ends cuts. Then when I am done using it, the red end goes in to a hole on the wood bracket on the work bench.