I just got around to brush painting full strength silver Floquil onto bare plastic (Train-Miniature boxcar). It handled really nicely. Other paints in my toolbox (modelflex and some other acrylics) don't come close in terms of coverage and handling, a least on a brush. I do have an air brush, but initial experimentation has given me pause. Given Floquils demise, is there a consensus about Scalecoat l as a substitute? I don't know of any other solvent-based paint, although I have not search for products aimed at other modelers (auto, war/military, airplane, etc.)
I do like Tamiya's rattle can acrylics, though.
Mike
Scalecoat I is death to plastic unless you use their barrier coat first. This was the reason why they developed Scalecoat II.
As was Floquil, I have been lead to believe. And yet, it brushed on bare plastic with no ill effects......
Hi Mike.
Just my opinion based on long term experience. I've been using solvent and water based paints in my modeling since the late 70s (Alclad, Floquil, Scalecoat, Model Master, Modelflex, Acryl, Pollyscale, Duncan).
For solvent based color products on plastics Scale Coat II remains my favorite paint. Once thinned properly, it atomizes well through single and dual action airbrushes and dries to a slick, smooth, hard finish.
Here I'm using Scale Coat II as a foundation for the Alclad2 Metalizer to achieve a stainless steel effect:
http://www.weavermodels.com/page11.html
Imho, although you can achieve good results, there is just no comparison between the flexibility and control that you get with airbrushing solvent based paints vs rattlecans.
As with all products, a respirator should be used when airbrushing or aeresol spraying these products.
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
sandusky As was Floquil, I have been lead to believe. And yet, it brushed on bare plastic with no ill effects......
I've read many many times in MR Magazines Paint Shop section that a barrier coat is needed or you risk crazing or damaging the pastic surface. However, there are probably many different plastic formulas and possibly some are more resistant to the effects of the paint solvent than others. That being the case, you may have gotten lucky, but I personally wouldn't take the chance, especially with a nice expensive diesel.
That being said, I have also read that some have airbrushed solvent based paints such a Floquil directly onto models and if the paint dries quickly, there is so little time for the solvents to attack the plastic, it's not a problem. Solvents in these kinds of paints are typically volatile organic compounds (VOCs) such as toluene or xylenes.
Being VOCs, they evaporate very quickyl in comparison to acrylic paints, which also probably gives them more desirable properties for better paint finish (pro). On the down side they are harmful to breath and they are likely to attack many types of plastics, thus the strong recommendation for a barrier coat (con).
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
sanduskyAs was Floquil, I have been lead to believe. And yet, it brushed on bare plastic with no ill effects......
I too have brushed Floquil with no issues, however, some plastics will react to raw Floquil when it is brushed on. And when air brushing, you will craze the plastic if the paint is too 'wet'.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Seem's like a lot of people still don't know the true story of Floquil paint crazing plastic. They changed that years ago around the time the bottle shape was changed from square to round. It was the thinner used in the paint that was crazing the plastic not the paint itself. The Diosol thinner formula was changed...not the paint. If You have any old square bottle's of Floquil...I do..take the cap off and take a whiff and then a round bottle and do the same. You will smell a big differance. Been using it since 1950 and still do, until they or the one's I can still get, run out. In my opinion, that was one of the best paints along with Dope, that was ever produced.
If You want solvent based paints, which I prefer, Testor's Modelmaster paint comes in Enamel, Acrylic and Lacquer.
Just finshed repainting two Ulrich tractor trailer tanker's, one with Floquil Big Sky Blue/SP daylight Orange, for Gulf Oil and Modemaster Enamel Insignia Red/Insignia Yellow for Shell Oil. Both are two toned with their colors, came out perfect and I will say, If I had used Water based Acrylic's, it would not have worked out that well, I tried before.
I know some people can't handle the smell of solvent based paints, I'm not one of them, going on 73 and still use them.
Most all airplanes/jets are painted with solvent based paint.. have not found a water base paint that can handle the different conditions as well yet....Just watched that on ''How it's Made" this morning.
Take Care!
Frank
The old Floquil paint in the square bottles and the very early round bottles was laquer based and would craze plastics .... you could almost use it to glue parts together !
Not sure the exact date of change (it's been many years) but it changed to enamel base which won't affect plastics.
I too would recommend looking at the Model Master line of paints if you prefer solvent based finishes. It too is enamel based and brushes just as well as it sprays.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
For airbruxhing I'll give a shout out to TruColor Paint. It's a bit thin for brushing but airbrushes very well. I add maybe 10% thinner but many have had success not thinning at all.
No connection--just a satisfied customer.
Athearn BB cars could take Floquil that was brushed on, but not Scalecoat. I know this from personal experience. I never tried repainting a Train Miniature car till after I'd bought an airbrush, so I don't know how prone their plastic was to crazing.
Testor's Model Master is good paint, as others have said. It's safer on plastic than original Scalecoat, and is more readily available (pretty sure Hobby Lobby and Michael's stock it).
Thanks, I'll probably try MM through the airbrush. FYI, and supporting your position, my Floquil bottle was round. I do remember the old "Diosol"! And yes, I believe the results from a rattle can and an airbrush are vastly different, despite what might be in the model press.....
M
I've been using Floquil since the '50s. Floquil in the square bottles lists Xylene as an ingredient, as do some of my round bottles, while the rest list Xylol. The most recent ones mention only "petroleum distillates" (tar? gasoline? )
The latter are, in my opinion, not even worthy of the Floquil name, while all of the former ones can be thinned with lacquer thinner, and perform well. I have no reason to brush-paint it on plastic, but have never had any problem with crazing when airbrushing it on plastic. Original Scalecoat is also fine for airbrushing on plastics, as is SMP Accupaint and any Testors paints thinnable with lacquer thinner.
However, I have yet to find a water-based hobby paint comparable to PollyScale (the original, not the final version from Testors), and would rate it superior to Floquil in most categories.
Wayne