Since I am in a very volitile and unstable time in my job (I won't elaborate), I am being forced to take a considerably more conservative approach to the hobby...at least for now. I want to create the Reading's entire fleet of Alco C430's...all two of them. As much as I want to go Bowser...I simply cannot afford right now to pay the cost. I'm looking at a pair of Mantua-Tyco C430's as an alternative. I'm willing...for the time being, to work with a couple of Ford Escort's over a couple of Mercedes (forgive my pathetic metaphor).
My question is. How accurate are the physical dimensions of the Mantua C430's as compared to the real thing? I haven't dealt with Mantua-Tyco diesels in at least 35 years.
Mark H
Modeling in HO...Reading and Conrail together in an alternate history.
I really can't help you with your question on how accurate the Mantua C430 are and hope that someone can help you.
However, your interest in taking older models and modernizing them is something I can relate to. I like to streach my hobby dollars to their limit, also. Not due to anything related to my job (I'm retired); but, because I like to save money and enjoy doing just what you are wanting to do!
It's possible I look upon this hobby from a more artistic point of view than is the norm, nowadays. That things be accurate down to 1/87th of an inch is far less important to me than something simply looking right for my railroad's needs. I could care less about others judging what I do as I'm in this for my own enjoyment. My suggestion would be to simply go for it; however, only you can be the judge, for what you need from a model.
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
What are you planning to use for a drive?
Jim
Soo Line fan What are you planning to use for a drive?
(Some frame grinding involved)
I don;t think they are grossly inaccurate. Perhaps a bit generic. ANd definitely lacking in detail, but some knife work scrapes off the molded on details, and adding grabs and so forth isn't an expensive proposition. Changing many of the details to free-standing would enhance the look greatly. Most any parts needed to alter the details are available, so a slice and dice should result in a quite acceptable model. Don;t forget obvious Reading features like the cab drip strips and the horns.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
My sense is that the very first release of this engine by the "real" Tyco/Mantua in the 1960s was more respected for its running qualities than later cheapened versions. And I remember seeing trainset versions of this locomotive in the 1970s or 80s where the paint was applied far too thickly - or was it a fake chrome plating?
Anyway the original Trade Topics review in the February 1967 Model Railroader generally praised the engine for its detail but noted that the truck wheel base was 10'4" rather than the correct 9'4". The flanges were slightly deeper than NMRA standards but MR said the engine could run on Code 70 and 83 if spikeheads were low. They praised the smooth and quiet drive and the engine had decent pulling power, thanks to a traction wheel tread, although only one truck was powered. Minimum speed was 10 to 12 mph on filtered DC; max was 200 mph. The reviewer assumed most scale modelers would want to body mount the couplers and fill in the big gaps in the pilots with styrene. They noted that the sideframes were well detailed (for the time) but sat a bit high for the axle centers. The price then was $14.95
Dave Nelson
I, too, recall these models as being pretty close to correctly dimensioned. Mantua did, however, expand the boxes on the deck behind the cab. They did this to make room for the motor. It's not as bad as on their GP20, but it's there.
A more significant problem for me would be closing up the openings in the pilots, and replacing the hilarious fuel tanks. Both tasks are relatively easy.
The "normal" Mantua/Tyco C-430 had only the front truck driving. It would probably be useful to add weight towards the front. Since the motor is down low in the truck, it should be easy. But watch out for adding so much weight, the motor burns out.
Pickup is a problem--4 wheel only. I'd recommend permanently coupling them, and then sharing pickup between them.
Also, I'd try test running them before I spent much time on them: Do they run well enough to make your time investment worthwhile?????
Ed
LensCapOn A BlueBox U28-30-33B would be a possible starting point.
A BlueBox U28-30-33B would be a possible starting point.
I did this to a Tyco C430 about 30 years ago. Except for the GE fuel tank the locomotive looks and runs pretty good for a reletively low cost.
I was curious, more than anything about dimensional comparison. This is all about what I call 'a worthwhile evaluation'. Would it be worthwhile to build up from Mantua/Tyco, over going Bowser, or to just forgo the entire idea.
Once again Bowser is out. Oh...and I say that very grudgingly! Bowser rates very high on my list.
So at least until I find some resolution with the very hostile job situation I'm currently in...this is a project to explore at another time.
Thanks everyone for your feedback.
ndbprrA blue box drive, tyco shell and detail parts could run close to the cost of a Bowser. A used one on ebay may be the best bet.
The shells can be a junk box item in many stores or rumage sales. It looks like you would have a good shot at getting the drive on Ebay for $30.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-ATHEARN-U33B-ROCK-ISLAND-/181542741469?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item2a44ca65dd
http://www.ebay.com/itm/U30B-ATHEARN-BURLINGTON-/111475168039?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item19f4701327
Good luck if you try this. And don't get the old drive as it is too wide for the tyco shell.
Certainly undertake this project, it's called modeling. Do this project to the best of your skills, abilities and monetary resources that you can afford.
Just looking over post on various topics of the MR Forum, not everybody can afford and or wants to plop-down hard earned money to support some foreighn Nation, which is not friendly towards the United States of America.
Going back to the post, their are many modelers who feel the same, which I do.
Consider supporting American manufacturers, who employe American's, just like you and I.
As to the accuracy of the TYCO/Mantua shells I was told a long time ago that dimentionaly they were the most accurate shells for a long time.I am in the market for a couple of the Alcos myself just to get some different power for my modern shortline.