I've got some Best Buy reward points that are about expire. If you were going to buy a camera specifically for layout photography, what would you buy and why?
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
I own a Nikon D3100, which is a 12.1 megapixel digital SLR. I use it mostly for model and layout photography. I like it because the cost was reasonable; being a Nikon, it has great optics; I can look through the viewfinder or display what I am about to take on the screen; and I can shoot videos with it. There are a variety of accessories available, also. Now, having said all that, probably most dSLR's from Canon, Pentax, Olympus will have comparable features.
Good Luck with your choice,
Greg
carl425 I've got some Best Buy reward points that are about expire. If you were going to buy a camera specifically for layout photography, what would you buy and why?
I use a Canon Rebel dSLR that I bought back in 07. I'm quite pleased with it.
Modeling the Pennsylvania Railroad in N Scale.
www.prr-nscale.blogspot.com
The DSLRs are great and all, but man they are way too expensive.
Last year I got the Panasonic Lumix, and its outstanding for indoors with low lighting conditions, which we all have in our basements. I shopped and research quit a bit before buying this. Best $350 I've ever spent on a camera. It also has manual features for sophisticated shots similar to the DSLR.
Here: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/panasonic-lumix-ts5-16-1-megapixel-digital-camera/1502531.p?id=1219052962857&skuId=1502531
Or this one is good too.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/panasonic-lumix-zs35-16-0-megapixel-digital-camera-black/5822127.p?id=1219159697412&skuId=5822127&st=categoryid$pcmcat324200050004&cp=1&lp=3
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
I use a Nikon L20 that I recently rebuilt. It's easy to use and it's good for close-up photos.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
I have read that many experienced layout photographers prefer decent quality pocket point and shoot cameras to larger DSLRs on the theory that they are actually better as regards depth of field, and can be more readily placed into tight layout scenes. I can say that my Canon Digital Rebel is large enough to be awkward to place when taking model photos, whatever other fine qualities it may have.
Dave Nelson
I have a Canon SX100 that has seen extensive use. It's what I take my WPF pics with. I have sometning close to 30,000 images taken with it. I'm a historian and when we visit archives any more, it frequently far faster to take pictures of documents, rather than copy them. I typically take over 5,000 in a week's worth of work.
It's been superceded by other models now. I was in BestBuy the other day and they had some like a SX170 for around $150 IIRC. I couldn't find specifics of the macro features on it, but its specs exceed my SX100 in every other way, so should be at least that good -- and it's great.
This example was taken behind Maguire's in Red Mountain. That's the "beer dock" on the left in the center with the gray concrete with the barrel of Colorado Black Stripe as we look down the tracks towards Silverton. Camera was in Macro mode, but otherwise automatic as I had to reach over foreground scenery and set it on the tracks to get the pic by pushing the shutter release by feel.
The thing just works great point and shoot (although manual features are there and easily available.) I can't see the text clearly when photographing documents (eyes too old and weak unless I get them close up), I just have to trust that it's doing its job. I get a blurred one every great once in awhile due to my own shakiness, but most are as readable or better than a xerox copy once I process them in Photoshop.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
This photo was taken with a Canon PowerShort A590 8.0 with 4X zoom.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
dknelsonI have read that many experienced layout photographers prefer decent quality pocket point and shoot cameras to larger DSLRs on the theory that they are actually better as regards depth of field, and can be more readily placed into tight layout scenes.
That may be true - I've used some high-priced DSLRs and by the time you stop-down far enough to get decent depth-of-field, you need photo floods in order to see the image. The photo below was taken with a Kodak CX6200, a very basic point-and-shoot camera.
Here's another one, also taken with the camera sitting on the layout and this time, pointed towards the aisle. The grain elevator and other structures in the distance are on the opposite side of the aisle:
Wayne
Here are the features you should look for:
Most of the cameras off these features, except a quality lens. Panasonic Lumix cameras have a Leica lens, which I can recommend.
I have an older model Lumix and I am still happy with it, although it does not have a high amount of mega-pixels to boost. It´s lens is superbe, and it is also small enough to be placed nearly anywhere on the layout.
Most modern cameras give good shots however if you want great shots, go for a DSLR. Now adays you can bracket the focus and blend so you have endless depth of feild with the right equipment.
One factor in favor of the pocket cameras versus the DSLR for pics on the layout is that the form factor is much reduced. You can just get a small camera in more places now than before, while the image quality is especially good.
My suggestion would be a micro four thirds camera: interchangable lenses and all the features of an SLR without the bulk.
My personal choice is the Olympus E-M5. One brilliant feature is the optional capacity to use the tiltable back screen as the shutter release. Also one touch of the screen will prioritise your focal point, given that the depth of field is superb anyway. The E-M1 would do a great job too but it is slightly bulkier.
Micro four-thirds cameras can use other brands' lenses, meaning I could use Sony [Zeiss lenses] or Lumix [Leica lenses] if I wanted to, but I use Olympus because they too have superb clarity.
Wayne I love that first view!
Modelling the UK in 00, and New England - MEC, B&M, D&H and Guilford - in H0
Thanks for all the suggestions. Being a former photography geek I'd have to have interchangable lenses. It sounds like the compact system cameras are a good compromise of lens choices and size. I agree that the DSLR's are a little large. I also think it's strange that not all of these cameras have tripod mounts. That's a must have for me as well.
What focal lengths do you find the most useful?
I'm interested in the infinate depth of field capability with bracketed focus. I've tried that with exposure (HDR) but I didn't know it could be done with focus. Is that an in camera feature or is it done with software? Which cameras have that feature?
carl425 Thanks for all the suggestions. Being a former photography geek I'd have to have interchangable lenses. It sounds like the compact system cameras are a good compromise of lens choices and size. I agree that the DSLR's are a little large. I also think it's strange that not all of these cameras have tripod mounts. That's a must have for me as well. What focal lengths do you find the most useful? I'm interested in the infinate depth of field capability with bracketed focus. I've tried that with exposure (HDR) but I didn't know it could be done with focus. Is that an in camera feature or is it done with software? Which cameras have that feature?
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
As I'm personally not a fan of focus stacking, I agree with Bob [always a wise move on things photographic!]
My micro four-thirds camera came with a wide angle 12-50mm lens, but being a 4/3, this actually equates to 24-100mm in 'normal' terms. Still a wideish lens, and one that does a very good job for me, anyway. Ihave no doubt that the 4/3 offerings from Sony and Panasonic would be very good too. However, to my knowledge, the Olympus is the only one with the shutter function on the touch screen. It's hard to get any shake when using it. I always use the self timer anyway to give it time to settle.
I find a good point-n-shoot digital camera quite adequate. I started with a Kodak ZX1485 which gave good service for 5 years and then started to get flaky. I replaced it with a Canon Sx170 which has been quite satisfactory. I use a tripod and aperture priority to stop the lens down as far as it will go (f8 usually) resulting a shutter time of perhaps a full second. Too long to hand hold. I use the self timer to trigger the shutter to avoid any chance of camera shake from a fat trigger finger. I would expect the other major camera makers (Nikon, Contax) to make perfectly satisfactory cameras.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Railphotog carl425 Thanks for all the suggestions. Being a former photography geek I'd have to have interchangable lenses. It sounds like the compact system cameras are a good compromise of lens choices and size. I agree that the DSLR's are a little large. I also think it's strange that not all of these cameras have tripod mounts. That's a must have for me as well. What focal lengths do you find the most useful? I'm interested in the infinate depth of field capability with bracketed focus. I've tried that with exposure (HDR) but I didn't know it could be done with focus. Is that an in camera feature or is it done with software? Which cameras have that feature? You didn't mention how much you had to spend on a camera, which can of course make a big difference. Now that you've stated you would like an interchangeable lens model, this changes things. Almost all current DSLRs are quite capable of taking great photos. The newer "mirrorless" models with interchangeable lenses are pretty great too. Not as much a selection of lenses though. And I've yet to see a current camera that does not have a tripod mount, maybe some do, but they would be few and far between. As to what focal lengths are the most useful, it depends on what you want to photograph. If you want shots of individual models, almost any will do. If you're looking for extensive depth of focus, then wide angle lenses seem to work the best. "Focus stacking" with many images all focused at a different point is usually done with software. Helicon Focus is one that's popular, and there are free ones out there too. I've thought about trying one of the offerings, but I can get all the depth I want with my wide angle lens at f/22. I've gathered a lot of tips from here and there, and have added some of mine, most are illustrated, in my model railroad photography website, in my signature. Good luck!
RailphotogYou didn't mention how much you had to spend on a camera, which can of course make a big difference
Sorry. I'm thinking I should be able to get this done for $500-700. The low end of the range is better, more is OK if it can be justified. I might take this camera on a road trip now and then, but layout photography is the primary requirement. I'm not interested in paying extra for improved video capability. Any picture that I'd take with a flash I'd take with my phone so no flash is required on this camera. I don't believe a viewfinder would be useful for this type of photography so that also is not on my must have list. All other things being equal, I like the old school rangefinder look.
While it wasn't specifically for layout photography, when I went to Best Buy in 2011 to get my first digital camera, I got a Nikon Coolpix S3000. They had them on clearance, and for about $200, I got the camera, a couple memory cards, an extra battery, and a camera case. Not a bad deal for my first digital camera.
Of course, one of the first places I tried it out was in the basement.
Works great for closeups.
Works great for overall shots.
And it takes pretty decent video.
http://www.youtube.com/embed/hoTU5Bp4kyw
In time, whenever I get the money saved up, I'll probably be getting a more advanced camera as well as a separate camera for shooting video. For now though, I'm happy with it.
Kevin
http://chatanuga.org/RailPage.html
http://chatanuga.org/WLMR.html
Carl,
If you are at Best Buy you are pretty much looking at either Nikon or Canon if you want any selection of lenses. My wife and I both recently upgraded our canon rebels. She bought the compact version and has been very happy with it. I bought the canon wide angle lens (not cheap) and have also been very happy with the results. Being a photo nut, Im sure you already are hip to the idea of picking a brand and staying with it to be able to use the same lenses on different camera bodies.
As for a small camera to shoot by placing them on the layout, my i phone works great for that. On photo trips I now shoot about an equal number of shots between the i phone and the DSLR..(BTW I have published i phone photos).
Your mileage may vary,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
carl425 Railphotog You didn't mention how much you had to spend on a camera, which can of course make a big difference Sorry. I'm thinking I should be able to get this done for $500-700. The low end of the range is better, more is OK if it can be justified. I might take this camera on a road trip now and then, but layout photography is the primary requirement. I'm not interested in paying extra for improved video capability. Any picture that I'd take with a flash I'd take with my phone so no flash is required on this camera. I don't believe a viewfinder would be useful for this type of photography so that also is not on my must have list. All other things being equal, I like the old school rangefinder look.
Railphotog You didn't mention how much you had to spend on a camera, which can of course make a big difference
If you're looking for a good DSLR try a used camera shop . I got a Nikon D70 a couple weeks ago for 300 bucks. For that price I got the regular 18 -55 lense and a 28 - 200 lense . When new this set went for about 1400 bucks . I'm still learning how to use it though LOL .
mikelhhFocus stacking" with many images all focused at a different point is usually done with software. Helicon Focus is one that's popular, and there are free ones out there too. I've thought about trying one of the offerings, but I can get all the depth I want with my wide angle lens at f/22. Railphotog As I'm personally not a fan of focus stacking, I agree with Bob [always a wise move on things photographic!]
I call such stacking faking a photo..I would much rather see the true photo not a photoshop wonder.
I recently bought a Canon PowerShot 170IS(16/16) and as soon as I figer out the maual setting-it has 32 auto settings and it offers program shutter priority,aperture priority and manual modes -I will take some photos and see how the camera stacks up over all.
Beware! If you buy a digital camera for close-up photography like on your model railroad, make sure that you can manually focus in the macro mode! I bought a Nikon Cool Pix camera for $1000 a few years ago and it cannot! I did not get around to model photography until later and it was too late. It has a sharp lens and I like its other qualities, but if I would have known, it would have been a deal breaker! Sadly, if I would have read a good review, I could have bought a different camera. I do not know if the newer Cool Pix cameras are equipped differently.
Also, whatever camera you buy that can focus in the macro mode, the best depth of field you can get is with a software program that will combine images from various focusing depths. It’s known as "Focus Stacking". You manually focus at various depths sharply and the software combines the many images to get perfect depth of field from very close to infinity in one final image. It's incredible. (Of course your camera has to be stationary to get the same images but at different focusing depths.)Helicon Focus is a good program for this. You not only get incredible depth of field and a sharper image rather than using the smallest aperture opening on your camera but your lens probably works better at larger aperture openings and you don't need as long exposure time. Yes, images using this software have been printed in the various modeling magazines.
The best part is that you don't need a high-end camera to do this as long as it can manually focus in the macro mode, has a sharp lens and puts out enough megapixles!
Victor A. Baird
www.erstwhilepublications.com
I took these photos with my Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ7, set to aper. priority,F8, manual focus, no flash, and self timer. I did not use any software, ie, Helicon focus or the free one. This camera is about 5 years old.
I know how it is to offer advice on the forum and never hear what happened so I figured I'd share the choice I finally made. I'm sure everyone's been holding their breath to hear. :)
Fujifilm X-M1
This is their entry level "compact system" mirrorless camera. The next level up has an electronic viewfinder which I don't find useful as my glasses interfere. Other more expensive models offer stuff like touch screens and advanced video capabilities which don't appeal to me. It's small and light but still large enough to hold on to.
Thanks to everybody that shared their experience.
A good choice.
The lens, though not as good as Panasonic´s Leica lenses, should provide for sharp, pretty much noise-free pictures up to A4 size. It´s a good no-frills (which hardly anybody needs) camera, which sees only one major point of critique - the tripod socket is not lined up with the lens. I have the same "problem" and I don´t care about it!
Sir MadogThe lens, though not as good as Panasonic´s Leica lenses...
I am also a fan of high quality lenses. Zeiss makes prime lenses for the Fuji X-mount. As soon as I've done enough layout photography to settle on a focal length, I intend to grab one.
I also think the larger APS-C sensor (same one as their higher end cameras) in the Fuji has an advantage over the 4/3 sensor in the Panasonic.