I did ask about this about a year ago but have not managed to zero in with a preferred product, so please pardon a repeat question. I've built a number of structures and left off the window glazings until now, wanting to add lighting soon. And I'm about to go about re-doing some Athearn heavyweight cars and don't like the thick windows.
I've seen suggestions that microscope slide covers make realistic windows. Are these glass or synthetic? I see some on Amazon but they are small. In some cases I'd like to use material in strips; e.g., passenger cars, shop upper windows. Someone mentioned sheet "styrene", is that good? I bought some 8-1/2x11 paper sleeves at the office supply store but they are foggy. Some of the structure kits came with a nice, clear, stiff material but I don't know what it is.
So, can you suggest your preferred material? I haven't found anything yet on the Walthers of MBKlein sites.
Thanks for any pointers.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
The two best that I kno wof are clear acrylic sheet and microscope glass slides. both work equally well for the applications that you need them for.
I use what's free when I can such as the clear plastic packaging on products bought from stores,etc. As long as it's stiff enough and clear with enough material to cover what I want and glue down without effecting the window portion, then it's good.
Richard
I've just started using microscope cover glasses (also called cover slips) for window glass in some of my passenger cars, and it really is a cut above clear styrene or acetate. The irony here is that I've been a biologist for over 30 years, and have made thousands of slides during my career, but was always afraid to take the plunge.
I don't know about the glasses available on Amazon. You should try to find a vendor that has 22 x 50 or x 60 mm glasses, and, MOST IMPORTANT!, #1 thickness. #0 (if you can find that size, it is rare) is too thin, and will crack if you look at it wrong, and #1 1/2 or 2 may give you difficulty when you cut it. Carolina Biolgical Supply is one such that I think will still sell to the general public.
A carbide tip scribe will work well for cutting, just lay your straight edge across the glass, draw the scribe along the straight edge, and then break with your fingers along the line. And no, I have not cut myself yet using my bare fingers to manipulate the glass. If you wish to mark where to cut, a Sharpie Ultra Fine Point marker will do.
To glue the glass in place, I use Elmer's Squeeze 'N Caulk, diluted 50% with water. Place the glass where you want it, load up a brush with the glue, and touch it to the edge of the glass. Capillary action will draw it in. The Squeeze 'N Caulk apparently is no longer available, but any siliconized acrylic caulk should work; there are several brands available in small, squeeze tubes.
Hope this helps,
Greg
peahrens I did ask about this about a year ago but have not managed to zero in with a preferred product, so please pardon a repeat question. I've built a number of structures and left off the window glazings until now, wanting to add lighting soon. And I'm about to go about re-doing some Athearn heavyweight cars and don't like the thick windows. I've seen suggestions that microscope slide covers make realistic windows. Are these glass or synthetic? I see some on Amazon but they are small. In some cases I'd like to use material in strips; e.g., passenger cars, shop upper windows. Someone mentioned sheet "styrene", is that good? I bought some 8-1/2x11 paper sleeves at the office supply store but they are foggy. Some of the structure kits came with a nice, clear, stiff material but I don't know what it is. So, can you suggest your preferred material? I haven't found anything yet on the Walthers of MBKlein sites. Thanks for any pointers.
The packaging from Kadee bulk couplers works great. It's clear and stiff enough to cover window openings in all my cabooses (cabeese?).
Len S
Paul,
I have used this product before and still have a lot left. Comes in various thickness's:
http://www.dickblick.com/products/grafix-clear-acetate-sheets-and-pads/
Take Care!
Frank
Thanks all! Just what info I was looking for. I think I'll try the big sheets Frank suggests where longer strips are needed, and try the microscope slide covers for some pane by pane inserts I need to add to the inside of my engine house doors (these are visible when the doors are open so excessive overlap at the frame for each pane is not good.
EDIT: Doing some additional surfing, I again ended up at the link Frank provided (clear acetate), so I amended my order to try some clear acetate I had ordered (described as glossy both sides) and added some clear styrene (one side "non-glare" finish).
Another vote for clear packaging materials. Got some fairly large pieces from packaging of grandchildrens toys.
I use canopy glue to hold it in place. If I goof and get some on the window, it virtually disappears.
Good luck,
I like to use clear plastic report cover sheets available from most office supply stores, mainly because it is cheaper per square foot and FAR more scratch resistant than clear styrene. I'd also recommend trying Woodland Scenics Accent Glue to adhere your glazing material to your models. Since you need to wait for this glue to dry before applying the glazing, it won't bleed or squish out into the visible areas of the glazing. If you don't get the glazing positioned correctly, just peel it out, clean off any glue residue from the glazing piece and try again.
Hornblower
I use the clear plastic packages that Entemann's pastries come in. Wash it, snip it to size, glue it down. I use ordinary solvent cement. Very low cost.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
If they're still available, you could use overhead projector transparencies. Not sure if they still make them though.
Modeling the Pennsylvania Railroad in N Scale.
www.prr-nscale.blogspot.com
there is a very good article on installing real glass (slide glass) in this months issue of MR i highly recommend reading it.
I also use clear plastic packaging. I use 2 liter bottles and any of that "clamshell" packaging. The plastic can be reshaped with ease via a hairdryer
Jeff
dstarrI use the clear plastic packages that Entemann's pastries come in.
David, I need materials that are less fattening! My will power is near non-existent.
gn.2-6-8-0there is a very good article on installing real glass (slide glass) in this months issue of MR i highly recommend reading it.
GN2-6-8-0, can you point me to that article? I looked through Jun/Jul/Aug MRs and do not see it. Thanks.
This informative thread from DC Fixer might be helpful regarding passenger car glazing. Scroll down to see the photos:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/182165.aspx?PageIndex=2
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
I can't help with passenger cars, but for structure windows I use real windows. Well, photos of them. If you look at buildings during daytime you'll notice you can't actually see inside them for more than a few feet. So that's the only part I model, using photos of the real thing.
You can read more about my windows technique on my blog at http://cprailmmsub.blogspot.ca/2013/07/making-more-windows-or-through-glass.html and http://cprailmmsub.blogspot.ca/2010/11/realistic-looking-windows.html and http://cprailmmsub.blogspot.ca/2013/09/photos-for-windows-another-set-of.html.
John Longhurst, Winnipeg
Paul, just an idea... I'm wondering if that pastic that you put on windows during the winter would work. A small square that is slightly larger that the window, and apply heat from the wifes hair drier, and trim. I am assuming it would be applied on the inside with edges to grab onto, and might look reasonable from the outside. It should shrink up fairly tight. A cheap experiment.
Not sure how to hold it in place while applying heat.
Steve
Life is tough, but it's tougher if your'e stupid.
just amazing went to our club today and that issue has already been borrowed, June July and Aug are there so im thinking we must have already recieved our Sept issue and that was it.
Along with Steve's idea of window plastic. We used to use a heavy, clear plastic, before they had the stuff that you tighten with heat. Think it is still available. It is not quite as heavy as the packaging material, but I think ridgid enough to be flat on snall window openings. Glue it in place with canopy glue, I think it would work well. A foot of it, three feet wide would do a lot of windows. A lsrge piece could be stretched to do a whole wall of windows, Last I knew my local hardware store had a roll of it.
I use Microscale Kristal Klear for windows.....
Dennis Blank Jr.
CEO,COO,CFO,CMO,Bossman,Slavedriver,Engineer,Trackforeman,Grunt. Birdsboro & Reading Railroad