Two really good ideas in November MR

[dknelson]

Well I am sure there are more than two good ideas in this issue but two that struck me particularly:
The use of PVC pipe caps for leveling layout legs (in Workshop p 36). These have a bolt that goes into a t-nut in the end of the leg itself. I use a carriage bolt in a t-nut, that works well but is hard and frustrating to adjust (not always enough room for a full sized wrench to turn the carriage bolt) - this looks like a snap to adjust with fingers I do wonder about dragging over the floor (the photo shows a wood floor) and whether the PVC leaves a mark. But I think this is a really neat and truly new method for leveling layouts.

Then in Cody Grivno's Step By Step article on scratch building a structure of styrene, he mentions drilling a hole where you intend to attach detail parts, so that the gluing is from the inside. This minimizes getting glue on the outside surface (as would or could happen if you put the glue on the part and then pressed it on the wall) and I would think also increases the amount of area that the glue or cement is sticking to, making for a better joint. Maybe this idea is not new but I had not encountered it before. Curiously the article seems to reverse steps 5 and 4.

On the subject of Workshop, someone asked about edge connectors for Tortoise switch motors and Jim Hediger (relaying the advice of Circuitron the manufacturer) advises a certain brand of 10 contact edge connector, with two contacts covered with plastic because Tortoise machines only need and have 8. Hediger was probably not aware of the ad on page 24 from Parkade, for an 8 contact edge connector -- perfect for Tortoise machines. I was wondering when someone would meet this need.

And maybe the most impressive thing about this issue are the photos of the Colorado narrow gauge layout -- built in an office trailer. Yet somehow the photos on pp 60 and the top of 63 have a real "natural sunlight" look to them, with light seeming to come from one source and casting a very distinct shadow yet without the harshness of one-flash-bulb photography. This captures the direct light that one sees up in the high country.
I also like the warm tone to the color. I wonder if this is a function of the film used plus the lighting? Anyway .... very nice work all around.
Dave Nelson

[krump]

thanks for the heads up Dave. I haven't bought the Nov issue yet, but now I'm looking forward to those articles particularly.

cheers

[tomwatkins]

Those are excellent ideas. I especially like the one about drilling holes to attach detail parts. I'd have never thought of it. My Nov. issue hasn't arrived yet but should in the next few days. It's very useful tidbits of information that make it worth getting every month.
Thanks,
Tom Watkins

[Noah Hofrichter]

I Should really try the idea of drilling, but I'm not sure where to get such small drill bits. anybody know where to get the small bits in a set of most of them?

Noah

[Anonymous]

Noah,
Micro-mark is a good place to get a set of small drill bits. Use a pin vice to drill with them, go slowly and carefully, they break very easily.

[GDRMCo]

You're all lucky. Over here in Aus we have to wait till the end of each month to get each issue of MR.

[egmurphy]

For drilling really small holes you want a pin vise (small, pencil sized, hand twirled drill bit holder) and a set of miniature drill bits. Your LHS should carry both these items.

My drill set has 20 bits ranging from #80 (0.0135" dia) though #61 (0.039"dia).

Check them out in the Walthers catalog on-line. The bits are item # 4512010. I also found pin vises in the Micro-Mark catalog, where the drill bit assortment is item #82727.



Regards

Ed

[Anonymous]

Sears also sells a pin vise with 6 small bits (#'s 52, 56, 60, 66, 70, 74) in their stores for $7.99. Most tool supplies also have the small bits. You save on shipping and on the higher prices that some hobby shops charge.

[egmurphy]

I think that's a great deal. I probably paid that or more for the pin vise alone. Plus you get a reasonable assortment of bits to start off with. Wish I had a Sears near me. Love wandering through their tool department while DW shops.

(btw, I like your quote in your signature!)


Ed

[AltonFan]

QUOTE: The use of PVC pipe caps for leveling layout legs (in Workshop p 36). These have a bolt that goes into a t-nut in the end of the leg itself. I use a carriage bolt in a t-nut, that works well but is hard and frustrating to adjust (not always enough room for a full sized wrench to turn the carriage bolt) - this looks like a snap to adjust with fingers I do wonder about dragging over the floor (the photo shows a wood floor) and whether the PVC leaves a mark. But I think this is a really neat and truly new method for leveling layouts.

I think Robert Schleicher used this method in one of his books (maybe the one he did for Bachmann) a few years ago.

[dknelson]

Well there is supposedly nothing new under the sun and it would not surprise me to learn that Robert Schleicher did this years ago. His old old Kalmbach book on plastic modeling (Yes he wrote for Kalmbach before striking out on his own in the magazine field) is chock full of great ideas methods and projects. He is a clever modeler.
As to very small drill bits -- this may sound absurd -- but ASK YOUR DENTIST. Dentists throw away top quality small drill bits by the handful every day, since they can't reuse them. If they just saved a weeks worth for you it would be a treasure trove. Don't be shy. Ask your dentist.
I might add that Walthers has its own line of small bits and even your local hardware store might have some, possibly behind a locked case (which is where the local Ace Hardware keeps the Dremel tool parts).
Dave Nelson

[darth9x9]

The 8 contact edge connectors have been around for years. They are available from the bigger electronic suppliers for around $2 a piece when purchased in bulk.

[Anonymous]

I havn't got the November issue yet, but when I get it, I need to check it out.