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Jessica, I didn't realize the lifting switch was so tempremental. I think you could use an atlas controler or twin to connect the bridge moters to a power pack the same way you might hook up a turntable. I would also consider a light which came on at the control panel when the bridge is not fully seated on the pier. As for the pier, I have a copy of the book Model Railroad Bridges and Trestles, published by Kalmbach ($16.95). There is a bit on bascule bridges in there; specifically, on page 143 you may find a plan view drawing of a bascule bridge. I like the pier detail which shows two large cylinders of concrete connected where the two sides of the bascule trusses rest. All I would do for your situation is increase the diameter of the cylinders since you will have two spans resting on the pier. This would provide adequate room for all the bearings. Your idea of providing a waterscape below the bridge is nice because it provides you with the opportunity to add much scenic intrest. Others have much more to offer on creating a good water scene. I would like to point out a nice extra detail for bridges at narrow navigable channels: dolphins. A dolphin is a barrier used to protect piers from scrapes with boats/ships. They are most common in narrow channels where barges are frequent. The span of the Walthers Bascule bridge is just right for these. The most common type of dolphin I have seen is a group of ten to fifteen wood piles driven in a group to protect the nose of the pier (both ends are protected with a seperate dolphin each). The piles are driven in a circle with a 1 to 12 batter so they all meet in a tight group about eight feet above the waterline. Without the water they would look something like a tee-pee. The whole group is then tied together with rope or cable for a distance longer than twice the diameter of the piles. There is a swing span bridge in West Point, Virginia with these type of dolphins protecting the central pier. Of course the piles are nearly rotten and covered with barnicles in the splash zone. One other little idea, I would run the guard rails long on one side of the central joint so they rested on the deck of the other bridge. If you are careful, this could be helpful in holding the two bridges in line when they are down. Just make sure the 'long' span doesn't come down first. Good Luck - Ed
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