Best cyanoacrylate adhesive?

[FJ and G]

Is the brand "Super Glue" the best?

Or, are they all basically the same?

CA is a common glue for scratchbuilders.

Dave Vergun

[Anonymous]

I like Super Jet in gel form - slightly longer to set (i.e. you have just enough time to get your fingers apart [;)]), plus it fills small gaps.

The thinner the glue, the quicker to set, and the stronger the bond (although all CA's are very strong).

Andrew

[Anonymous]

The chemical make-up of all cyanoacrylate glues is the same with the exception of those that are either fast dry, slow dry, gel, etc. The basic formula is the same, so if you are asking if one manufacturer is better than another, the answer, in my opinion is no. I buy the cheep stuff at the Dollar Tree, 4 tubes for a $1. Works great.

I do use gap filling CA for certain projects, but beyond that, the cheap stuff will work fine.

[orsonroy]

Most superglues (CA for those who want to avoid brand-name infringement) are the same thing. The only difference is in the "fillers" used to either make them gap filling or fast drying.

Use the cheap stuff, four tubes for $1.95 (around here). Yes, it's thin, runs, and dries fast, but it's the best stuff out there. The additives make weaker bonds, meaning that the bond won't be as strong or last as long. If you need a "gap filling" superglue, either rebuild the model to eliminate the gap, or use talcum powder mixed with the glue.

[sparkingbolt]

I used to buy the expensive CAs at the hobby shops, and I got tired of it drying out before I could use it. As everyone above indicates, and all from experience, the cheap ones I get at Wal Mart or wherever work every bit as well as any. I find that Super Glue brand in the .11 oz bottle, red cap, seems to give me no trouble with clogging. They're so cheap I can have one them everywhere.

I do use INSTA-SET accelerator from my LHS to speed it up. I don't use the sprayer cap on the bottle to drown the glue joint though, just apply a drop with a peice of wire dipped in the bottle. I've had this 2 oz bottle for years and must still have 1 3/4 oz left.

Baking soda makes a good filler too. I like the technique of gluing the joint then dump on the powder, shake it off, repeat as neccessary. Make sure the joint where you can clean it up with a file and sandpaper AFTER IT DRIES. Dan

[pedromorgan]

i tend to get the cheap stuff for general use but i like doing etched overlays and "zap flex" or "rocket poly" (are they the same manufacturer? they do the same products in the same packaging??) are extreamly good as even after they have dried they have a bit of give to them.

"zap odourless" and "rocket odorless" (again the same??) are very good as they dont fog up windows and they dont leave any residue around the joint. fantastic stuff!

did you know that superglue was invented for "welding" together flesh during wars and closing wounds!!

luvly!!

Peter

[Anonymous]

I built model R/C airplanes for many years and tried all the major brands. If people are still building airplanes from balsa with covering, they are mostly using CA. I've found the method of dispensing is what makes me choose one over the other. For gap filling I like Zap A Gap from Pacer and their Zip Kicker accelerator. For thin CA I have been using simple Super Glue. I can keep the hole open with this product, where as I don't seem to be able to keep the stuff flowing from other Mfgers. It likely has the best price and is readily available at many outlets.

[Anonymous]

Somewhere I read that Jet brand is less 'harmful' to contact lens wearers - has something to do w/ the fumes that are released while using it. I find Jet difficult to locate at most retailers. I have purchased CA from some woodworking shops and have found it far more economical than from the LHS.

I have yet to find a brand that has a decent 'tip' for dispensing, and have had to resort to such silliness as making the hole much larger than I'd normally want, and inserting progressively larger sheet metal screws into the tip. At least this way one can 'unscrew' the screw, rather than destroying the glue 'bottle'. In the long run I have found it more cost effective to buy CA in small size packaging, for I don't have to deal w/ the hassle of the 'screwed up' tip near as much, as with a big bottle that becomes unusable, or makes a mess because the opening is too big.