Life-Like N scale GP-38 M-T Coupler Conversion / Handrail Removal Help

[egmurphy]

I'm trying to change out the rapido couplers on an N scale Life-Like GP-38 and could use some advice from anyone who may have gone through this. As background info, this is one of my first attempts at M-T coupler conversions and I'm not all that familiar with taking locos apart.

Anyway, got the shell off without breaking anything. Could have used a couple of extra hands, but there we are. Now it appears obvious that I need to remove the trucks to get access to the coupler pockets. Right there the 'obvious' part ends.

It looks like (but I'm not really sure it's the case) the trucks are connected to or pivoted on the frame with a horizontal pin that also may act as shaft for the drive gear. I can't imagine trying to pull this pin out. There isn't any other obvious (to me) connection or way of disconnecting the trucks. Or am I supposed to open what appears to be a protective cover over what I think is the horizontal worm gear? By the way, don't know if this is standard LL procedure, but these covers appear to be just stuck on with scotch tape???!!!

So the questions would seem to be:
1. How do I get the trucks off?
2. Anything in particular I need to watch out for when taking this apart or putting it back together?
3. Any particular tricks I should know regarding trying to install the M-T coupler (I have a #1129, by the way) conversion on this loco?

Hey, while I have the attention of anyone who knows these locos, how about getting the handrail molding off the cab so I can paint the cab? It looks like the side handrail assemblies have had the tabs (which would have stuck through holes in the cab casting) melted over on the inside to keep the handrail assembly in place. Is that right? Do I need to actually cut these off to remove them? I'm assuming that, being that flexible plastic, they won't take the paint the same as the body will. Of course, that then begs the question of what type of paint I should be using on the flexible handrails, since blue handrails on a black loco body will look strange.

Thanks in advance,

Ed

[Wdlgln005]

Your LL GP38 should have truck mounted couplers. My LHS haa a #1135 conversion that has T shank coupler. Taking off the shell is a good first step. The pin that holds the truck in the frame also holds the geearing. You may not need to remove it unless you also have a contact problem. Be careful not to lose anything!

There's a plastic coupler box clip that you will need to remove. that holds the Rapido Tshank in. THe #1135 includes a plastic adaptor that holds the MTL coupler in the LL coupler gearbox. Have fun converting your loco!

[DSchmitt]

MicroTrains has coupler conversions for most of the N-scale US prototype locos from the major model companys. See their web site

http://www.micro-trains.com/conversions_.htm

[egmurphy]

Thank for the suggestions guys, but it’s still not clear. As I mentioned in the original post, I've already got the coupler conversion, what I need is help getting the trucks off to install the kit. The M-T site lists two different kits, since I believe I have the newer model GP38 I bought the 1129. The 1135 that Glenn mentioned is listed as the conversion for the older model.

The coupler pockets on these trucks do not have removable clips, they’re open on top and the T shank fits through a couple of slots in the sides. The problem is that the loco frame overhangs the coupler pockets on the trucks. I can see how to twist the coupler to remove it and the spring, and I can do that with the trucks still in place. But since the conversion requires sliding the adaptor piece in from the back after first fitting the new coupler in place, plus some judicious filing on the coupler pocket, I figure this ain't going to happen without clear access to the coupler pocket.

“The pin that holds the truck in the frame also holds the gearing. You may not need to remove it..” That’s what I figured. I’m very leery about pulling this pin and having the guts of the gears fall apart (actually what I’m concerned about is getting it all back together [:D] ), but is this the way you are supposed to remove the trucks?

Still confused,

Ed [%-)]

[AltonFan]

I'm not familiar with this particular loco, but the coupler box may be a part of a truck frame assembly that snaps onto the truck itself. You may be able to gently pull the frame off the truck, install the coupler, and snap it back onto the truck.

Again, I am not familiar with this particular engine, so look closely to see if the truck frame and coupler box can be removed.

[egmurphy]

Dan

It actually looks exactly like that. Unfortunately it also looks like it snaps off in an upward direction, with protruding lugs at the front and back of the truck which look like they keep it from coming down, which means I may still have to remove the trucks. I may try this approach anyway and see what happens. Thanks for confirming what I thought I was seeing.

Added later:
Hey, that did the trick!! [:)] It popped up, but I could slide it forward and work it down off the truck. Great. Now I just have to concentrate on the mods required for the conversion.

As long as you're batting 1000, care to hazard a response to the handrail question?

Thanks again,

Ed











Ed

[trainfan1221]

egmurphy
The handrails are very difficult to get off and will very likely break. The engine isn't built for too much disassembly. The trucks are the old wire system, so be very careful. You also
have to watch when you put the shell back on, the wires get caught. The coupler conversion should be easy as they make a kit to directly do this and I believe I have done one of mine.
I will be honest with you, though. I had several of these myself. The chance is that it will not be worth it in the end as the engine does not have a long life to it. Even if you rebuild it several times. If you really want a GP-38 in n, do yourself a favor and buy the far superior Atlas model. Yes, it is more expensive, but worth it.
In cidentally, I always thought the n scale LL GP38 was a good looking model, an exact scale down of the HO model. But after studying it for a long time I finally realized
the problem with it, the trucks are too big.

[egmurphy]

Ron

Thanks for the input. Working on the conversion now. The instructions are pretty straightforward and the main problem will just be seeing what I'm doing when I try to bevel the front of the coupler pocket or trim the old spring pin (per the directions). But I have all my magnifying tools at hand and will press on. Old age plays havoc with your eyesight.

I didn't really figure it for a great loco, but I picked it up for $10 during the Model Expo clearout sale last year. I figure it's good for learning. If it runs a while that's an added benefit.

I'm not very knowledgeable on diesel identification, so I really wouldn't notice the truck length issue. The GP38 is really a bit modern for my freelance road era but no one who will ever see it will have that depth of knowledge so it's not a real issue for me.

Thanks

Ed