JL Innovative Design HO Structure Advice

[simon1966]

I just purchase a pair of JL Innovative design structures off of e-bay (over $10 off from retail ). These will be my first attempt at a non shake the box plastic kit. The kits (Vics auto and Fryxwell Feed and seed) are made up off laser cut basswood, metal, plaster and various other parts.

2 Questions:

1. Any advice for the novice on construction tips to help in getting a succesful outcome?

2. Any comments on JL Innovative and how they compare to other craftsman type kit makers?

Thanks

[Anonymous]

Congratulations, Simon. A JL kit was my second craftsman kit (first was an even easier kit from Dynamodel). I assembled the McLeod Super Service gas station, probably similar to your Vics Auto. My opinion is that JL offers kits that are excellent introductions to craftsman kits. Just take your time, follow the directions in general (I often change the order of assembly) and you'll end up in a surprisingly short time with a great kit. Only a few suggestions: 1. Dry-fit EVERYTHING before gluing. Few craftsman kits offer perfect fit, a little sanding, filing or even trimming is often necessary. 2. Most of these kits have metal or plastic parts for items like doors and windowframes; paint them before assembly. 3. Add extra bracing to the interiors unless it will be highly visible. 4. For any metal castings, be sure to clean and dry them thoroughly, and PRIME before final painting. Personally I use carpenter's yellow glue, applied with the end of a straightened paper clip, for assembling the wood parts, but others swear by the super glues.

[simon1966]

Thanks for the advice. I made a good start on the kit last night. The look of horror on my face when the basswood exterior walls curled up after painting was likely a sight to behold. By painting the backside of the peices I got it to flatten out a bit, and then the weight of telephone books took care of the rest. I hope to complete it this evening.

[Anonymous]

Sorry I am bit late with the advice, but I would have suggested that painting wood parts might result in warping!! I have successfully flattened them out by weighting as you did.

With all the wood kits I have built, I find it is better to paint/weather as much as possible before assembly. If you get a bit of glue on unfinished wood, paint will cover it, but (for example) weathering with an India Ink/alcohol stain will not penetrate the glue.

I also find that a tiny drop of white glue works best, although takes longer to dry than super glue. The wood tends to suck up the superglue meaning that it will weaken the joint, and it also leaves a bit of a shiny reside.

For joining two different materials, I like super glue, or Walthers "Goo".

Rails5 has offered good advice too!

Andrew

[simon1966]

I used Titebond wood molding glue, simply because I had some laying around from a decorating project. It works really well. Does not run or drip and holds really well almost on contact.