Finishing Decals

[Pennsy58]

I recently applied DM&IR steam decals to a tender that were purchased from the Missabe Historical Society. They seem to be rather thick and the edges are readily visible on the tender. Looking for suggestion on how to finish off the decals to hide the decal edges. My first decal project and have no experience regarding blending in decals. The tender is black and the decals are clear except for the print which is silver. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

[Noah Hofrichter]

Usually you should apply a flat clear spray can finni***o the car, loco, or whatever. this will keep the decals from comming off as well as help blending the decals. testors clear coat as well as other model paint specialists clear coats will do. Testors is avalible at some Wal-marts even. A tip though, do not use a generic flat clear paint from the hardwarestore, especially Krylon. Some will "melt" the decals and you'll have to do it all over again.

Noah

[Anonymous]

Like Noah said , stay away from general use paints!!!! Also agree on Testor's Dullcote!!!!!! Good Luck!!!

[Pennsy58]

Wow quick responses. As I stood ready with a can of Krylon Clear coat borrowed from my wife's crafting kit. Pays to ask. Took awhile to find the decals and I would of ruined them it appears. Thanks for the info.
Off to Wal-Mart I go........

[Anonymous]

Nobody mentioned it, but you should be using Solvaset (or similar decal setting solution) after the initial placement of the decal has dried; this will dissolve the clear film somewhat, and get the decal to sit tightly amongst the rivets and other details. If your base paint color prior to placing the decals is glossy, then the decal film will become virtually invisible. If your paint finish is flat, however, it will be rather difficult to disguise the extra gloss of the decal film. The Dull-Cote over the finished job is a way to correct for the gloss. You might find that you need to apply the Solvaset several times, just don't go too strong in any one application or else the decal might distort. I use a paint brush, soaked with water, to which I touch a drop of the setting solution, thus diluting it in the brush.

I just received my custom-made decals last week, and so I'm brushing up on my skills!

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Avondaleguy

Nobody mentioned it, but you should be using Solvaset (or similar decal setting solution) after the initial placement of the decal has dried; this will dissolve the clear film somewhat, and get the decal to sit tightly amongst the rivets and other details...

Yeah, what he said.

---jps

[orsonroy]

Finishing decals takes a number of steps to get "right". Start by applying the decals, wicking off the excess water, and ketting them dry thoroughly. Slice any air bubbles with a sharp Xacto blade and *** Solvaset or Champ Decal Set. Let dry. Slice any remaining air bubbles and repeat the Solvaset, etc., application. Once the decals are thoroughly dry (usually overnight), add a barrier coat.

In direct opposition to what Noah mentioned, I prefer Krylon clear coats over Dullcoat, both for it's superior finish and for it's lower cost. In the past month, I've oversprayed decals made by Champ, Walthers, Microscale, Westerfield, Sunshine, F&C, and Rail Graphics, without melting a single one. Of course, I'd recommend proving it to yourself, by decalling a practice shell and trying it out firsthand.

[Anonymous]

Solvaset is one of the most concentrated, quickest acting decal softeners on the market. If your new to decaling, it allows little time for corrections. Of course it can be diluted. Microscale has two levels of softeners, either one will allow much more adjusting time; particularly important when applying one digit at a time.

[tomwatkins]

Riverhill makes a good point. I find that Microscale' s two decal solutions, Micro set and Microsol work very well for "thin" decals such as Microscale and Railgraphics and save the Solvaset or Champ's decal setting solution for thicker decals such as Champ's.
Have Fun,
Tom Watkins

[Anonymous]

Just to add something here, Testers makes a decal printing program kit. Comes with decal paper and software and a can of decal bonder. I found it at my local hobby lobby store. They also have there decal paper in wet or dry, white and clear. Have tried it and liked it the decal paper in the clear wet is very thin and easy to move around. This is for all persons that must have (Like me) custome decals made. I did find out that to import pic's for printing you need to buy the upgrade, I did and it is a life and time saver. No more wating on the mail and having to pay someone else to do what I can do for my self now. It is worth the time to check out I think.

P.S. it is for ink jet printers only.

You all have a good day.

[Noah Hofrichter]

I tried the testors printing program, and the program it self isn't very good. The decal film spray and the sheets are nice though. I figured out a way to take photos into the windows program "Paint" and filled in all the color around the object. then I took the item to Microsoft Word for resizing, and now I'm slowly accumulating things I want to make decals of before I go wasting half a sheet.

Noah

[CBQ_Guy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Pennsy58

I recently applied DM&IR steam decals to a tender that were purchased from the Missabe Historical Society. They seem to be rather thick and the edges are readily visible on the tender. Looking for suggestion on how to finish off the decals to hide the decal edges. My first decal project and have no experience regarding blending in decals. The tender is black and the decals are clear except for the print which is silver. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

What others have said and also weathering may help hide the edges.

[gerzbok]

I had just read at the Champs Decal site that you should cut your decals by tilting your hobby knife at an angle when cutting the decal. This gives a kind of tapered edge to the decal helping it to blend in at the edges. I have not tried this yet myself.