Edit post

Edit your reply below.

Post Body
Enter your post below.
Hey, fellows, I wasn't talking about using a small wattage iron. I was talking about using a 60 watt iron with a small tip!! Not the same thing! I have never had a plastic tie melt yet. The key is eutectic solder and a good quality rosin flux(like they use in electronics). That is the method that works for me. If you feel more comfortable with a gun, OK, but do use the 63/37 solder, It is nearly impossible to get a cold joint with it. Also, if you are doing a long curve with a joint in the middle, best to solder the joint first, then put it in the middle of the curve, then flex your track to the curve. Good luck and happy soldering. I am on and off the connection so fast I have never had to use a heatsink. Just make sure the wire feeder is well tinned. Another trick I have seen is soldering a wire to the bottom of a rail joiner BEFORE the track is installed. The disadvantage to this is that you can't subsequently solder that joint, or you'll unsolder thre feeder.
Tags (Optional)
Tags are keywords that get attached to your post. They are used to categorize your submission and make it easier to search for. To add tags to your post type a tag into the box below and click the "Add Tag" button.
Add Tag

Update Reply

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Model Railroader Newsletter See all

Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!