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Strange electrical problem...

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  • Member since
    January 2004
  • 116 posts
Strange electrical problem...
Posted by liquidcross on Sunday, April 11, 2004 3:43 PM
I've got nine Atlas switches hooked up in sequence. For some reason, #8 and #9 weren't working at all, so I checked then with a voltmeter. ~16VAC power runs consistently up through switch #7, but then it drops to 0.5VAC at #8, and cuts out altogether at #9. The switches are connected to each other via the little metal "spades" that Atlas includes with their switches. They're screwed in all the way, too.

I'm rather perplexed. Any thoughts? Think I should just replace the switches?
N scale late 1970s-early 1980s Chessie System layout in progress.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: St Paul, MN
  • 6,218 posts
Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Sunday, April 11, 2004 3:52 PM
Sounds like your voltage is going somewhere beside where you want it to. Does switch #7 work correctly??? Let's start debugging there, and continue this conversation.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • 116 posts
Posted by liquidcross on Sunday, April 11, 2004 4:10 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

Sounds like your voltage is going somewhere beside where you want it to. Does switch #7 work correctly??? Let's start debugging there, and continue this conversation.

Yep, that one works fine.
N scale late 1970s-early 1980s Chessie System layout in progress.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 11, 2004 5:09 PM
I don't have many of the Atlas push button switches but I have had one with plastic fla***hat prevented the lug from making contact with the next switch. If you have an internal break and don't want to buy a new switch just add power wire to the other end of your array.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, April 11, 2004 5:26 PM
I have had this problem with Atlas turnout controllers in the past. The terminal lugs are moreless riveted to the PC board and can corrode. I've also seen the copper conductors on the PC board crack from being flexed. I would guess that the output on switch #7 is the problem. You could run a jumper wire like Tony suggests or put that controller at the end of the group.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • 116 posts
Posted by liquidcross on Sunday, April 11, 2004 6:20 PM
I just used my voltmeter to check every single switch...it looks like #8 is the problem. One of the connections looks dead...I'm going to try and jumper it. If that doesn't work, I've got two spare switches I could try out.
N scale late 1970s-early 1980s Chessie System layout in progress.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: St Paul, MN
  • 6,218 posts
Posted by Big_Boy_4005 on Sunday, April 11, 2004 6:23 PM
Sounds like a good plan, that was going to be my next suggestion. I hope it isn't a fried motor.
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • 116 posts
Posted by liquidcross on Sunday, April 11, 2004 7:31 PM
Nope. Just replaced #8, and now everything works the way it should. [:)]

Except for some "stuttering" of the engine on various parts of the track. But that's to be expected...I just finished wiring today, and wanted to run some general tests before I start soldering the track. That'll eliminate the dead spots.

Thanks for the help, guys! [:D]
N scale late 1970s-early 1980s Chessie System layout in progress.

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