New to N Scale.. help please

[Anonymous]

Hi everyone - I am new to model railroading and jumped head first into my first layout - the Muscatine and Northern N Scale from the Jan 2001 MR magazine.

I have already built the benchwork as described in the article and have the plywood top in place. My next step is to buy the foam board, track, trains and DCC at a show this weekend but I have a few questions.

1) Wiring: I'm not sure where to begin.. I was thinking of possibly using DCC but the track layout seems to only really support a single train (possibly two because of the passing track). Is it worth it? If not, how would I wire this config?

2) Track: I'm not sure what track to get. The article lists plain old Atlas track - if I go this route, is this ok? Also, what do I put under the track? I mean, if I put the foam board on top of the plywood (Do I even need the foam board if I have the plywood???), does the track just get nailed/glued onto the foam board or plywood? Or do you put some of that track cork down first? Or should I just get track that has a roadbed already built in (Pricey I would imagine..)

3) Order: Do I put the foam down and "sculpt " it with places for the river, hills etc and then put the track down? When does the wiring get done?

4) Has anyone else built an N scale layout using this layout?

Thx for all the help... I'm sure to ask more questions and learn a ton from reading all the messages already on here!

[n2mopac]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Pesto126

Hi everyone - I am new to model railroading and jumped head first into my first layout - the Muscatine and Northern N Scale from the Jan 2001 MR magazine.

I have already built the benchwork as described in the article and have the plywood top in place. My next step is to buy the foam board, track, trains and DCC at a show this weekend but I have a few questions.

1) Wiring: I'm not sure where to begin.. I was thinking of possibly using DCC but the track layout seems to only really support a single train (possibly two because of the passing track). Is it worth it? If not, how would I wire this config?

2) Track: I'm not sure what track to get. The article lists plain old Atlas track - if I go this route, is this ok? Also, what do I put under the track? I mean, if I put the foam board on top of the plywood (Do I even need the foam board if I have the plywood???), does the track just get nailed/glued onto the foam board or plywood? Or do you put some of that track cork down first? Or should I just get track that has a roadbed already built in (Pricey I would imagine..)

3) Order: Do I put the foam down and "sculpt " it with places for the river, hills etc and then put the track down? When does the wiring get done?

4) Has anyone else built an N scale layout using this layout?

Thx for all the help... I'm sure to ask more questions and learn a ton from reading all the messages already on here!

Here is my 2 cents worth, and it is just that. But I model in N scale and this is what I would do anyway.

1) With a layout this small I would go with conventional DC. You can do DCC, but I think every should experience DC block wiring at least once. If you have enough space to run two trains at once wire it for dual cab control. The process of wiring in electrical blocks and setting up for dual can control is best described in Kalmbach's book on basic model railroad wiring (can't remember the exact title, but its easy to find on this site.) This will save you a lot of expense from DCC, which is great, but I think is overkill if you are running only 2 trains on a small layout like this.

2) Atlas track is good, especially Atlas flex track, but I would go with turnouts from a higher quality manufacturer. I personally use Peco but many people like Shinnohara. As far as roadbed is concerned, you can put cork roadbed on top of the foam, but with foam I would simply shape the foam into the contour of the roadbed and glue the track to it. I would definately use either cork or foam under the track anywhere where it would otherwise sit directly on the plywood.

3) I would do most of my basic scenery contours before laying the track except where the scenery will get in the way of the track laying process (tunnels, deep gorges, etc.).

Thats my opinion. hope it helps.
Ron

[Wdlgln005]

Welcome to Nscale!

1) For a small layout, DC is fine. The layout article should split the layout into separate blocks. These blocks would get feeder wire for DCC, and it's a good idea to have feeder wire for about every 4ft of track.

2} Atlas makes great track. You may have a choice of their older code80 or newer code 55. Peco makes good track. Another choice is the Kato Unitrack.
Foam board on top of the plywood would let you cut ditches & other below track scenic details. The flat/level plywood makes a firm base to do anything you want. Cork is a versatile subroadbed material that lets you use any color ballast you like. Vary the color for the region/railway modeled.

3) Do the trackwork & get the wiring done first. Run a test train to be sure everything works. You can ballast the track and have some basic scenery shapes. This is also the time to set up any buildings & structures to see if everything fits. This will also be the last time to make any major changes to the layout. Then you can cover the track and finish your scenery, preventing any major spills of paint on the track.

4) Have fun with your layout!.

[bluepuma]

I have Kato track and Atlas track, but plan to build with Atlas. I have Lifelike locos that don't like the Kato track and turnout points, SD locos and the center wheelset is floating.
My Kato E8 didn't like the Atlas track, the center wheelset *doesn't* float. My Atlas and Kato like Kato track. I like the hidden turnouts. So, what you want to run can determine
what track might be best. Kato is better when track is not glued down, afterwards, might be easier with Kato.

Been lots of good info since Turtle Creek on building, with this year helping.

[Anonymous]

what is your layout size? what will the radius be?

[Anonymous]

I'm currently buiding an n-scale layout that started out as a 44"x80" two-level with a fully detailed yard below and a helix to the top. All Atlas code 80 flex-track and Atlas turnouts (which I'm not happy with). I recently moved to a bigger apartment so I was able to dedicate a whole room to trains. Now I have doubled its size (on the upper level) and am reconfiguring the track plan (the yard is 99% done).
I tthink Atlas code 80 flex-track is a great modeler-friendly product. I don't care for the turn-out because the tangient side seems to have a curve to it.

[bluepuma]

Wiring: I would want to isolate the passing track and sidings if I wanted to park a train or loco on it. As for wiring, match the wires to the rails. Think of electricity as water, it flows along a pipe, and returns. To isolate the tracks, insulate each end and connect one rail through a single pole switch that either connects the rail or opens the path to one rail. It might help to have something to check voltage or ohms of resistance, even a buzzer with batteries. Open circuit no buzz, close circuit buzz. A 9 volt battery and 3k ohm resistor, and red or green LED connected in series might also help. When connected to the battery, resistor and LED the LED lights. Then open the circuit, and used test leads at the test points. Open, no LED, short, LED lights. The switches to the sidings should Open the path to the other track on one rail, and close the path when switched On. To switch power on or off to a siding, you need to open the circuit or short the circut with a switch. When open, no loco run, when short, run.