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Low cost tree ideas
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<p>got this from a thread here, just cant seem to find it again, i like the broom idea!!, any pictures for this? </p><p> </p><p>13In pursuit of better model trees</p><p>Thoughts on trees and recipe for home-cooked aspens</p><p>BY ROBERT HAMMPHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR</p><p>Before making that first tree youneed to consider several topics.These include size, type, appear-ance, modeling approach, color,and texture. Here I want to presentsome lessons learned working onmy own HOn3 Iron Gorge &Western RR set in the San JuanMountains of Colorado. I'll con-clude by sharing my recipe formaking peppergrass aspens.</p><p>Tree sizes</p><p>Most trees I use in the fore-ground (aspens, firs, spruces, andothers) are between 35 and 40scale feet (5 to 51⁄2inches) tall. Thisis about half to three-quarters theaverage size of the real thing. I did-n't arrive at this size by scientificmethod, but by simply observingwhat size trees seemed best to fitmy scenery.I think these smaller trees fit bet-ter because many of our structuresand scenery features are alsoundersized. Take structures forexample. Often we choose asmaller one not because it's moreprototypical, but because it fits thescene better. Often we selectivelycompress the prototype so it won'toverwhelm its surroundings orsimply because we don't haveenough room for a scale version.By using increasingly smallertrees towards the backdrop we cre-ate the illusion that distances aregreater than they actually are. Seefig. 1. This technique is calledBob Hamm's own HOn3 layout features hundreds of the aspen trees he shows how to make in this article.forced perspective," and it's par-ticularly effective where there arelots of conifers. Their distinctivepointed shapes allow a direct sizecomparison between backgroundand foreground trees. I go so far asto use background trees that areabout one-third the size of thoseup front.</p><p>Tree types and appearance</p><p>Geography and climate deter-mine what kinds of trees growwhere, and seasons govern howthey look at different times. Ifyou're modeling the area whereyou live, just be observant. Take afew trips over back country roads.Take some pictures, make somenotes, and collect some leaves forcolor samples.If you don't live in the area youmodel (as in my case) rely onbooks, calendars, magazines, andvideos. Take a trip to your chosenlocation, perhaps as a familyvacation or as a side jaunt after abusiness trip. Remember to takeyour camera.Generally, I don't try to build spe-cific models of a given species, butI do try to capture the flavor andappearance of the trees of an area.Try to identify the dominantspecies. Learn what they look like,how large they grow, where theygrow (near streams, on slopes, andso forth) and how they group andmix with other species.In the part of the San JuanMountains I model, for example,aspens are the principal deciduoustrees, while the conifers are dividedamong engelman spruce, douglasfir, and lodgepole pine.Those particular conifers looksimilar until you get up close andlook at the bark and needles, sorather than try to imitate eachspecies, I simply plant severalslightly different kinds of tall, con-ical trees that have the right gen-eral appearance.</p><p>Selecting tree colors</p><p>As you all know, tree colordepends on the time of year. Forthose of us with summertimelayouts, it's simply a matter ofselecting the right greens. Try tomatch paint samples with photosor leaves.In his book How to Build Real-istic Model Railroad Scenery, DaveFrary suggests using a single basecolor for your earth. I think it'ssimilarly important to establish abasic green or group of closelyrelated greens to provide color con-tinuity for deciduous trees andother leafy plants. The conifersalso need their own base color.I use Floquil paints for my finaltree colors because they are flat,available in many colors, and easyto alrbrush. I mix three foliagegreens all based on Coach Green(RR48) and Burlington NorthernGreen (RR35). One mix adds 1 part ReeferYellow (RR31) to 2 parts of each ofthe greens, a second adds 3 partsReefer Yellow, and the last adds 1part Reefer White (RR11).Other brands of paint will work aswell, but be sure they're flat. Also, inselecting colors be sure to viewthem under actual layout light.I keep a notebook of my colorsamples and mixes, using 81⁄2″x11″vinyl holders made for 35mmslides. Two-inch-square pieces ofwhite cardboard with the paintsamples on one side and the recipeon the other work well.</p><p>Foliage texture</p><p>When viewed from afar, the bestfoliage materials have a texture like clusters of leaf-size specks.The more they "pop out" the betterthe effect.Another desirable attribute is adelicate or airy structure. You wantto be able to look between leaf clus-ters and see the inner branches.Fine-textured commercial groundfoam when applied to a delicatesupport armature does a good jobof meeting both requirements. Iparticularly like the AMSI line ofground foams, for both their colorsand fine texture.Many natural materials also havethese qualities. Some of the bestare: peppergrass (also called babybush, candy bush, and beige lace),hardhacket (or hardcap), and wildspirea (or meadowsweet). Theseplants may be known by othernames as well. I buy the peppergrass in floristshops and craft stores, but gatherthe other materials from over-grown fields and meadows in east-ern New York and Western Mas-sachusetts in the early fall.All these natural materials arecharacterized by tight clusters ofwhat appear to be seed podsconnected by a delicate armatureof branches. The seed pods areabout leaf size and generallymulti-faceted.Some of the best-formed weedheads make good trees with littlemore than trimming and paint-ing. I use wild spirea in this man-ner for my background trees.Sprigs of the peppergrass workwell for aspen saplings and fillingin the foreground</p><p>.A recipe for aspen trees</p><p>Colorado Rockies modelersneed aspen trees by the bushel. Ibuild my foreground aspens bygluing peppergrass sprigs to thetrunk. Figure 2 shows the toolsand materials needed.For the trunks I use straighttwigs or weed stalks 1⁄16″to1⁄8″indiameter and 3 to 6 inches long.The glue should be thick-bodiedand fast drying. Walthers Gooworks well, as does Quick Grabby the 3C Co. in Woburn, Mass.A small piece of foam boardmakes a useful base for settingthe tree down.Typically peppergrass costs $3 to$4 a bunch. Choose the kind that isstraw-colored, or "natural." It'smost likely to have the "seed pods"that look like leaves. Pick thebunches with the fullest clusters.I've found the quality varies</p><p>.Let's build an aspen</p><p>The sequence of photos in fig. 3takes you through the construc-tion, so grab a twig and let's go. Ithelps to have an image of the tree'sbasic shape in mind, and that'sprovided in fig. 4.I hope you'll give this recipe a try.It works great for me. </p>
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