Are you trying to remove existing paint, or are you trying to wash off the mold release? If the latter, then yes, just good soapy water with a dish wash soap that cuts grease is the way to go -- I use an old toothbrush to get the mold release out of the nooks and crannies (the crannies are the worst). It might be tempting to run it through the dishwasher but the castings give off an odd odor when warm and there might be objections from a certain someone
Dave Nelson
wjstix wrote:You might get more responses if you posted this in the "General Discussion" or "Layouts" forums, this one is geared more towards comments/questions on the prototype (i.e. real) trains.
Your reply seems to be to a different question. How is a model resin shell associated with the prototype other than being a model of one?
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
alloboard,
I agree with Mike. You only need to wash the resin shell in warm, soapy water, rinse well, and let dry. It's then ready for priming and painting. All that you're doing is removing the releasing agent from the resin surface before painting.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I am a Resin caster. I wash them with Soft-Scrub and a toothbrush under lukewarm water.
Twice.
Next I assemble the kit or add any parts required to complete the model. I use ACC for glue.
Then I wash it again and let it dry for at least 24 hours.
Next I prime the completed model with Model Masters flat gray spray paint from a can.
Then paint it with a brush or air brush using the colors of your choice.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.