I H C , 2-6-0 slow speed operation

[mikebonellisr]

I am trying to get my I H C 2-6-0,to perform better at slow speeds. There does'nt seem to be any type of mechanical bind in the running gear but it has a bit of a 'jack rabbit' start. I spoke to someone at IHC,they said that was unusual and I should break it in ...still not too good. I'm putting in a lenz 1035w,load compensating decoder. Does anybody have any other ideas or experience with this engine?

[Anonymous]

I have one and mine doesn't seem to have the jack-rabbit start problem. However, I am of the opinion that most steam locomotives are not geared low enough. It's not because they need more pulling power, it's that they do not have enough low speed. Have you looked to see if NWSL has a re-gear kit for this loco? It may be worth a try to email them and ask what they might recommend. Also, when you install DCC, you will be able to adjust CVs for engine start, mid and high end voltage which might help.

[mikebonellisr]

Thank you Mark, If the decoder does'nt work, I'll try NWSL! Do you really get smooth starts from a dead start...I thought it might have been the engine so I bought another 2-6-0,same problem.
The drivers will go about a 1/2 revolution then stop[bind?].Then I have to apply more power, which causes the engine to jump foward.

[orsonroy]

Part of the problem with IHC steamers is that they're too light. I know there's room to cram more weight into their 2-8-0 and 4-8-2, but I don't own one of the 2-6-0s. Try adding weight in the domes, the cab, and under the pilot. Adding weight above the drivers will HELP (but not solve) the other problem with the IHC engines: their cheap can motor. NWSL doesn't have any specific "kits" to remotor and regear these engines, but their parts can be used to remottor anything, depending on your skills level. Personally, I think the gearing is fine. With a load compensating decoder and a better motor (Micro Mark's is actually very good, inexpensive, and AVAILABLE, unlike most of the NWSL stuff) the engine should run markedly better.

[dragenrider]

I hate to say it, but my experience is that any engine by IHC is substandard for model railroading and more of a toy. My advice is buy something of quality before sinking money into a poor quality engine.

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by dragenrider

I hate to say it, but my experience is that any engine by IHC is substandard for model railroading and more of a toy. My advice is buy something of quality before sinking money into a poor quality engine.

Dragen,

Apparently you haven't had the opportunity to actually deal with several of the IHC engines. Before I switched to prototype modeling, my steam roster was made up largely of the IHC engines. I owned four of the mountains, four of the consolidations, and one each of the pacifics, 4-4-0s and Mikadoes. Toe only engine that gave me any problems was the mike. All the other engines worked reliably, had good slow-speed control, and pulled sufficiently (25 cars for the mountains). And the best thing was that they were less expensive than the alternatives (Bowser, Brass, or Rivarossi).

I've converted (in a major way) one of the IHC 4-8-2s into an IC 2600-series mountain, and had the engine mistaken for new brass by people who know IC steam! Admittedly, I basically scraped off ALL the boiler details and replaced them with wore and brass parts, but the core superstructure was still all IHC. Before Bachmann and Life Like came out with their premier lines of plastic steam IHC was the best on the market, and I'll still rank it behind only Spectrum, P2K and BLI.

Yes, IHC DIESELS are pieces of garbage, but by and large, their steam is solid and dependable. It's been overshadowed by newer, more glamorous plastic steam over the past 5-7 years, but it should still be the brand of choice for anyone who wants to model steam with a tight budget!

[mikebonellisr]

DRAGENRIDER, I agree,but...I'm modeling a line loosley based on the N.Y.C.'s Putnam div. They were common there. I have 1 brass 2-6-0,but I don't want to spend that kind of money on another.I thought if I could improve it's performance,I would super-detail it.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mikebonellisr


The drivers will go about a 1/2 revolution then stop[bind?].Then I have to apply more power, which causes the engine to jump foward.

Hi, Mike!
This sounds to me as the same kind of problem I had with my Spectrum K4 Pacific. Try this: when the drivers stop/bind (turn the engine upside down to make this easier), try to check if it is one of the main rods (which connect the drivers) actually "pushing" the drivers apart because it is "too long". If that's the case, this rod will be jammed, not moving laterally at all. I slightly bent outwards the rod that was causing my K4 to "hunt", but be careful, it has to clear all the other moving parts.
Also, try lubricating all the joints in the valve gear and rods with extremely tiny droplets of fine oil, best applied with a needle or a thin wire.

Hope you solve this problem succesfully!
Best regards,
Oliver.

[mikebonellisr]

Oliver
IF that's the problem,would it help to elongate the hole in the driverod,or would that cause other problems?

[CP5415]

I have 1 IHC steam loco, a 4-6-2.
I haven't had a problem with it. It has good slow speed capabilities, pulls the train I want it to pull, whch is only 5 passenger cars, but it's up & down 3.5% grades.
I would & probably will buy another one.
Yes there are better ones on the market, but I can't afford to pay $200 + for a locomotive right at this time.

Gordon

[joseph2]

Mike,I just tested my IHC Premier on level track with a transistor throttle.It will go 12 inches in 5.0 seconds.My Bacmann 2-8-0 and Athearn 2-8-2 both run slower.I think I will also lube it and check for binding.My hunch is not to elongate the hole inthe drive rod. Joe G.

[Budliner]

so if I see a 2-6-0 fot like $55 is that a deal or is it a kiddy toy

[CP5415]

I'd buy one Bud if it were $55 for sure!

Gordon

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mikebonellisr

Oliver
IF that's the problem,would it help to elongate the hole in the driverod,or would that cause other problems?

Mike
No, that wouldn't work! A friend of mine tried it, and it made things much, much worse. Don't do it!

Also, if you're bending the rod, be careful to leave the areas around the holes (where the rod is attached to the wheel) as parallel to the wheels as possible to avoid creating a new source of unwanted friction.

[Anonymous]

Mike:

If what you have is a new and not "never broken in" locomotive one or more of the driver wheelsets might be slightly "out of quarter" which is causing a slight bind in the main rod.

Another possibility is the gear train is binding for one reason or another. This possibility requires disassembly of the gear tower to check.

I suggest you take the engine to either your LHS or local club and get some expert advice. Its very difficult to diagnose the problem without actually seeing the loco in operation.

Good Luck

Randy

[mikebonellisr]

THANK YOU ALL! I now have a idea of where to begin.