Edit post

Edit your reply below.

Post Body
Enter your post below.
I also highly recemend that you solder your rail joints on the out side of the rails to insure a good flow of currant. The metal joiners are OK, but they loosen up and don't hold very good as time goes. So at the joiner, use a solder and flux with NO acid in it, put a little flux on the outside of the rail below the rail head, touch your clean soldering tip to the inside of the rail to heat it up, and place the solder to the OUTSIDE wear the flux is. It should suck the solder right in the joint, Remove the soldering iron and do ALL the joints the same way. Be carful not to touch the ties with the iron or they will melt bigtime, and it's a real good idea to get a couple water soaked cotton balls and put themontop of the rail about 1/2 inch either side of were you are soldering to keep the rest of the rail cool so you don't have the melting problem away from were you are working. It's not hard to do, Just takes a little time and patientes. As Wolfy said, the only time you use the plastic joiners is when you need to isolate at track were you may want to flick a toggle switch to park engines on a siding or something like that, then flick another switch to make another engine on another siding go without removing the engine from the track. Hope I helped.......Jamie
Tags (Optional)
Tags are keywords that get attached to your post. They are used to categorize your submission and make it easier to search for. To add tags to your post type a tag into the box below and click the "Add Tag" button.
Add Tag

Update Reply

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Model Railroader Newsletter See all

Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!

Subscriber & Member Login

Edit post

Post Body

Tags (Optional)

Subscriber & Member Login

Users Online

Search the Community