Atlas or Peco remote switches?

[liquidcross]

I was all set to put Atlas remote switches/turnouts in my layout, but a N scale modeler at a local meetup told me that the Peco ones are much better. Any thoughts?

[nfmisso]

Peco, for reliability of operation.

[Anonymous]

I use peco and haven't had any problems. They are simple and robust. You can add options to them.

[liquidcross]

QUOTE: Originally posted by nfmisso

Peco, for reliability of operation.

Yeah, that was the guy I talked to said. He said Atlas switches don't stay in the correct position after you throw them...is that true?

My problem with Peco is that they're more expensive, and you need to add an $8 motor just to make them remote switches. Ouch....that would add nearly $100 to my layout costs.

How well do they work as manual switches?

[Anonymous]

is your layout HO of N?

[liquidcross]

QUOTE: Originally posted by CNWfan5525

is your layout HO of N?

N scale.

[Anonymous]

We used Peco N-scale switches on our club layout (10.6 scale miles). They are all manually controlled. I like the "positive feedback" you get from the spring clip in the switch. It keeps the points where you want them. We've had difficulty with the Atlas switches because of the lack of a spring clip.

I'd rather use the Peco switches, whether with a switch machine or a manually activated ground throw. (BTW - even though it isn't to scale, I'd recommend using an HO-scale ground throw. It's easier to work than that fingernail-sized N-scale throw.)

[Anonymous]

I haven't used Peco turnouts before but I have about 20 Atlas snap switch turnouts on my N scale layout and I haven't had a bit of trouble with them. I have DS54s controlling them and they always throw and stay in the position desired. I have all sorts of sizes of diesels and one GS4 that can navigate the switches without trouble.

I would be interested as well as to know exactly what is better about the Peco turnouts.

[liquidcross]

QUOTE: Originally posted by joekc6nlx

We used Peco N-scale switches on our club layout (10.6 scale miles). They are all manually controlled. I like the "positive feedback" you get from the spring clip in the switch. It keeps the points where you want them. We've had difficulty with the Atlas switches because of the lack of a spring clip.

I'd rather use the Peco switches, whether with a switch machine or a manually activated ground throw. (BTW - even though it isn't to scale, I'd recommend using an HO-scale ground throw. It's easier to work than that fingernail-sized N-scale throw.)

Do the Peco switches come with a manual throw, or do you need to buy that separately, too?

[Anonymous]

MR has had some good articles in it regarding remote switches made from piano wire and springs. This is something that I'm considering for my yard operation. This should save me about $250.

[liquidcross]

I may just end up going with the Atlas ones for now, and upgrading later...the Peco ones are going to be too expensive. [:(]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by liquidcross

I may just end up going with the Atlas ones for now, and upgrading later...the Peco ones are going to be too expensive. [:(]

I don't think the Peco's will be a "drop-in" replacement for the Atlas switches. You should look into that before committing yourself to doing this.

[liquidcross]

QUOTE: Originally posted by billkamery
I don't think the Peco's will be a "drop-in" replacement for the Atlas switches. You should look into that before committing yourself to doing this.

Oh, I know I'd have to pull up part of the layout to replace them...but considering the high price of the Pecos, at this point it would probaly have to be Atlas switches or nothing.

[orsonroy]

My Ntrak club recently voted to make Peco medium or long the ONLY switches allowable on the mainlines, since they work so reliably, and because the undertable switch motor wirks so well. We came to that choice based on the numerous problems we've had with Atlas switches on the main. Since the rest of each individual module is the "property" of the modeler, we didn't mandate swiches there to be Pecos, even though we all agree they're much better than Atlas.

I'm using Peco switches on my HO scale home layout too. They work perfectly every time, either manually or automatically.

[liquidcross]

Hmm...here's another thing. Atlas has their "standard" switches, which aren't labeled by number. The Peco ones are all labeled by number (#4, #6, #8, etc)...how would I know which Peco model would replace the standard Atlas model?

[Anonymous]

Just my two cents worth. I have torn down my 12' X 14' HO layout which had a combination of Atlas and Peco code 100 turnouts, because after several years use the Atlas were not as reliable as the Peco. I am now rebuilding with all Peco code 75 rail and turnouts. The cost for both the flextrack and turnouts is considerably more, but I think well worth it. Of course it will take sometime to rebuild because of the cost involved. I cannot shell out all that money at one time. I am taking the diversified layout building approach. That is, building some benchwork, laying some track, doing some scenery, then start the process all over.
Paul

[Anonymous]

IMHO, speaking from a purely business sense, I would spend the money on Peco switches now, getting as many as I could afford, then putting them in one by one as I acquired more Peco switches. The manual throws come separately, from Caboose Hobbies, and are about $2.50 each. The piano wire remote is a reliable and inexpensive way of controlling your switches without having to go as far as electrical switch machines. Of course, the downside to that is you can't control the switches from your throttle control (if you're using DCC). But for a smaller layout, I like both the piano wire and the Caboose ground throws.

I think that the success that kgroesch is having is partly due to the switch machines actually holding the points in position, rather than the switch itself. The Atlas switches we've used just don't stay in position unless you have a spring-loaded ground throw to hold the points where they belong. Yes, the Pecos are more expensive, but consider this, if you buy the Atlas now, and then later move up to the Pecos, you are spending more money in the long run. If your goal is to get your entire layout running, then Atlas may be your option. Just remember, you get what you pay for. I'd rather pay a higher price once than to pay the lower price once and then move up to the higher price later.

Strange, I thought the Atlas switches were all numbered, but then again....I think most of the Atlas Snap-switches are #6, although I'm not really sure. Usually, I check either their website or the Walthers website catalogs and see what they use in their descriptions.

[Anonymous]

I recently completed an N layout and had problems with the Atlas Code 80 turnouts. The hinge on the points was loose on a couple...naturally one was the main turnout at the yard throat adn it worked perfectly until ballasted. This meant that the movable portion only lines up correctly on an intermittent basis and any out of tolerance causes derailments in N. It is possible that the ground throw overstressed it, but I don't think so...it and another were much looser than the rest. My advice is to check the movable portions before installing.

[liquidcross]

QUOTE: Originally posted by joekc6nlx

Strange, I thought the Atlas switches were all numbered, but then again....I think most of the Atlas Snap-switches are #6, although I'm not really sure. Usually, I check either their website or the Walthers website catalogs and see what they use in their descriptions.

I checked Walthers' site...and this is all they had for the description of the Atlas switch:

"Atlas popular and traditional Code 80 N Scale track features nickel-silver rail on black plastic ties. Switches feature refined and narrow flangeways at the frog and guard rails, and positive mechanical attachment of points. The difference between Standard and #6 switches is the angle at which the curved piece of track splits from the straight piece. Because the rails of Standard switches split at a sharper angle than #6 switches, they create a sharper curve and work better in smaller spaces. "

It still doesn't say what number the Atlas ones actually are...perhaps they're #4, since the angle is sharper? Atlas' online catalog is currently down, so I couldn't check that.

[Anonymous]

Here's a web site that will help you with Peco switches:
http://www.awrr.com/PECO.html

[mikebonellisr]

I have been using shinohara and peco. The only problem I have with peco is that at slow speed many of my 0-4-0's & 0-6-0"s stall at the frog. I might change over to electrofrog.
I don"t mind that they are not U.S. prototype as my layout is very high & you see them from a sharp angle.

[CP5415]

All of my Atlas switches are dead. I have one left that will be part of my museum of 'stuff that looks like it will work but won't last'.
All but one of my switches on my layout now are Peco. The lone one is a 35 year old Shinohara that still works great. I have about another 12 Shinohara switches that also work great, but several are brass. All left over from my Dad's layouts.
I prefer Peco over Atlas for 2 reasons.
First reason is that they have that "click" knowing that the switch is where you want it to be. Second, they came highly rated by everyone I know.
The Atlas ones, while cheaper, also have that "cheap' look to them & may not stay lined to the track you want your train to go. Personal experience taught me that.

Just my [2c]

Gordon

[Big_Boy_4005]

Its interesting to see that after over 20 years of being out of N scale some things haven't changed. Peco was the choice back then, and its still the choice of serious N scalers today. Atlas has always made quality products, but for N scale switches, Peco is still #1.