3 in 1 = MUing / diesel decapods / weighing steam

[Anonymous]

1) I have found through the occasional idea of seeing how much my engines can pull that they dont have a whole lot of pullbar. I would then strap my engines (U__B, GP-40, S-4) together in order of strength, and even that wont pull a 35 car consist. Am I surely overloading the engines? A lot of my pike is grades and this is often a problem even with seven cars on the GP-40. I was thinking (to make a strong/long consist) that I could run a wire between two or three identical engines in a paralel circut manner in order to MU them together (and put in perminent couplers so i dont rip the wires out.) Has anyone done this before?[?]

2) Riding the train twice a day in New Haven CT [:)], I once saw a diesel decapod - a 2-3 loco. I thought this was interesting and proceeded to ask a modeler friend of mine who I happen to run into on my train about it and he informed me that it was a GE (?) built specialy for NY/NY/H RR way back when and only a few dozen were built. Does any one know of what I speek (have any other info) or of any companies that produce this engine?

3) I have 2-6-0 steam engine made by some company (Mirado? I cant quite read the logo. its a division of rivolarsi). it can hardly pull three cars up a 4% grade without slipping, so i opened it up to see if i could add weight, and the things already filled with poured lead. any solutions to increase this puppies pullbar?

Sorry to make such a complicated/lengthy thread[xx(], but it keeps my Q's in one place![:p]

[lupo]

question:
1) does these locomotives run at the same speed with the same throttle setting?
the easiest way to MU traction is to use identical locomotives (same manufactorer)
I think if they do not run at the same speed one enigine is dragging the other around the lay-out, with little pulling power left for cars,
what kind of engines do you have ( manufactor ) do you run DCC or DC ?
what kind of grades do you use, wich percentage?
The experts who are going to answer your questions sure want to know these facts as well!
lupo

[dehusman]

1. Wiring the locomotives together will not make them pull any more. It sounds like you have very steep grades, thats the problem, not the engines.
2. The engine you are talking about is probably a FL-9, it was build by EMD (GM not GE) and was designed to run on either diesel power or third rail. They were only used in the New York area.
3. Once again, the problem is not the engine, its your grades, your tracks are too steep.

Dave H.

[Anonymous]

I pull between 30 to 60 cars up a 5 to 7% grade. If I'm not using an articulated or my FEF then I'm double or triple heading with what ever, no MU just three engines in line that run and perform at comparable but not exact speeds. This works providing they are running clean and steady. You need a good power pack for this as the little rinky dink ones don't have enough juice.

As to your 2-6-0 problem youv'e got a Mehano from Slovenia. I've got two, witha little bit of detail work they can be sharp lookers, However they will never be able to pull much, regardless of your efforts. Keep them on a spur line and engine and haul that one or two carloads into the backwash places after all that's what they did best.

[joseph2]

#3.It sounds like a IHC Premier (Mehano) mogul.I also have one of these plus steep grades,I use mine to pull short passenger trains or very short locals.I had to have grades steep so one track will passover another.

[Anonymous]

Mullet:

I can't speak to the first 2 questions, on the third I have a suggestion or two.

A 4% grade is very steap by prototype standards. A 2-6-0 in prototype service would pull 7-8 cars, consider that in evaluating your engine.

Your mogul might be improved by insuring the balance point of the engine is slightly ahead of the center driver. You can test the balance point by using a pencil under the center driver and noting which way the engine tips and how strongly. If it is markedly out of trim remove some of the added weight to bring it into trim.

Clean your track and locomotive wheels. Clean conditions improve pulling power.

Consider regearing the engine to improve low end performance. Most model engines are geared too high from the factory which hurts low end pulling power. Keep in mind the cost of the regearing, it may not be cost effective.

Good Luck

Randy

[Anonymous]

Thank you all for info.[:)] To Lupo's suggestion of elaboration on the layout... all three engines run at rather diffent speeds [:(] (Atlas S-4, Athern GP-40-2, and and some Yugoslavian U-B series which has a 3-pole and no flywheels [may be inserting a 5-pole, can flys be added?]) on a DC (MRC powered) layout. The problem that i was forseeing with just coupling together engines is that the engine closest to the power source would have the most power and by linking all three would equal out the difference. Is this realy a consern? I understand that grade is a bit steep [:I]- but i wanted four inches of altitude between the upper and lower layers, as the under-trussing of the bridge will take some significant portion of that. I guess six feet isnt enought run for that rise. I suppose thats what i get for modifying Atlas's Granite Gorge & Northern - HO-28 [:p](it was designed to be three inches of el - then i modified and bought Woodland Senics foam system-but ill save that for another thread[:D]). Do larger engines (SD's, E-series...) have more pullbar (as models) than smaller ones as they do (on a comparitive basis) in prototype?

As for the Mogul- thanks for the tips-im glad to know thats a common issue[:)]. Ill guess she'll have to wait until I expand my layout[;)] (which will be mostly level) to run her optimally.

And as for the FL-9 (the GM was a typo, sorry), does anyone know of a manufacturer who makes these[?]

[dehusman]

4 in of rise in 72 in of run is almost a 6% grade. Very, very steep. I like to try and keep grades below 2%, 4 in. rise in 16 ft of run.

Dave H.

[Anonymous]

Hi, Jake
I found out that almost any model loco has room for some additional weight, and that it's the best way to improve a model's pulling power. The best material is lead, but handle it with care - it's not good for your health. It's poisonous! If you decide to try it, use gloves, work on an area you can easily clean and dispose of all the filings etc., and don't forget to wash your hands thoroughly after you have finished!

In the IHC/Mehano 2-6-0 steamer there might be some room in the domes on top of the boiler, in the boiler itself - as little as it seems, it'll help both the traction and the electrical contact. A friend of mine has even added a lead plate between the drivers of an old AHM/Mehano 2-8-2, glued it to the bottom of the gear cover that also holds the driving axles in place. If painted flat black, you could live with it. You must be sure that it remains above the railhead, though. I don't think you should mind about the balance here, the engine is pretty small and the overhang at the leading axle is not big.

The diesels (GP40 and the U-B) should be a lot easier. Usually there's pretty much room above the motor and along the entire hood top, and at the front and rear ends of the hoods, also in the cab (you can leave the windows free, fill just from the bottom to the lower end of the window, and from the upper end of the window to the top of the cab roof, paint black to "hide" it - even with simple elementary-school watercolors - very useful type of colors for a modeler, by the way). The trick is to leave enough space for all the moving parts to be able to move or turn freely.

Unfortunately, Mehano models (your 2-6-0 and the Yugoslavian U-B, Slovenia was once a part of Yugoslavia), are made almost entirely of plastic, including their axle bearings, and the axles of the diesel, so adding weight will put stress on these bearings. It would help to keep them lubricated, preferably with a little grease because oil could easily flow to the wheels/rails and then you'll have even more slipping and dirt accumulation.

Newer IHC/Mehano diesels have new, better motors inside them, I'm not sure if they are 3 or 5-pole, with rather small flywheels, but better than nothing. Maybe those parts could be found on some swap-meet (train show), or you could pick up a bargain (damaged?) IHC SD-40 and take out the drive, just make sure it has the newer motor with flywheels.

Have fun,
Oliver [:)]