DCC WIRING is essentially one BIG block. One can have multiple Throttles - or one for each GUEST.
DC WIRING divides the layout into "block" sections, which are activated individually by mechanical toggle switches. Since most mechanical switches have two positions (on-off) or (throw one-two), most all DC layouts are limited to two Cabs.
DCC reqires a decoder module per engine. The Power source is contantly on full, and the decoder controls the voltage going to the DC motor.
AS SUCH they are incompatible. Some DCC manufacturers have a slot for running one DC engine and others build-in protection to their DCC modules, but by and large they are incompatible. ATLAS products have an internal switch to throw. QSI electronics can run on both (for about $100 each.
BEST to wire-in blocks that can be trown DC or DCC. I can throw blocks for CAB A or CAB B, so DCC can be added by installing DCC at CAB B. I can add warning lights per block as reminders, if I wish.
Far more important iS he the TYPE of turnouht. I will need 100% frog isolation for DCC, which means I will have to CONVERT or use "DCC friendly" turnoutsl. Should I be starting out, most turnout makers are converting over their product to 'dead' frogs.Peco calls it an 'Insulfrog'.
RECOMMEDATIONS:DC for one man operation; QSI equipped engines; 'DCC friendly'(insulated frog)turnouts. DCC is here today, but will be obsolete someday.DCC if you have the money and plan to have more than one guest as an egineer.
. Additional cabs cost $$.
Don Gibson
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