Streets and Roads.

[Anonymous]

Greetings,

What does everyone use for there streets and roads? Painting tips?

What about the cross bucks?

All responces would be greatly appreciated.

Mark in Texas

[Anonymous]

I used a three ft section of Rubber Brick Road by enchanted forest
from hobby lobby.



I sprayed dulcote on it and before it dried and aged it by applying foot powder.

[Anonymous]

Greetings,

What department in Hobby Lobby do you find it?

Mark in Texas

[Jetrock]

I use black cardstock purchased in 24"x36" sheets, cut to fit around the track (which runs in the middle of the street) and paint Aged Concrete (I am representing cement streets rather than asphalt.) The bits in between the tracks are .020" styrene with the same paint. Ink washes and pen marks to simulate cracks are applied later.

[Anonymous]

I use 0.030" styrene cut to the width of my street plus the width of two sidewalks. I then glue two layers of Evergreen 1/2" square sidewalk material down each edge. This give a curb height of about 7" in HO, close enough. I generally paint it with a light gray/beige mix of water soluble paint and then spray with dull coat.

[dave9999]

I use the Woodland Scenics road system. It produces good results, BUT it can be a little
messy and you have to work quickly because it hardens up pretty fast. Also, it gets a little
tricky in tight spots.
I'll be watching this topic for other ideas. Dave

[mls1621]

I model in N scale and have had good results using AMI instant roadbed for HO to make roads.

It lays down by use of a small roller on the paper backing. It follows curves very well and can be trimmed to fit anywhere.

I've used Chartpak tape for road lines after painting with Floquil Tarnished Black. I put one strip of tape down the center of the road. Then I apply a strip on either side. Removing the center strip leaves a well spaced double line on the road.

I hope this is helpful.

[RhB_HJ]

Streets and roads: We use dry wall compound, apply it with a pre-shaped piece of styrene which gives the street the required crown. Pre-colour the compound a light gray in case it chips. Colour with acrylic paint applied with a sponge first in a swirling motion and the finish in reasonably straight lines to simulate the wear from the traffic pattern.
BTW unless freshly re-topped, streets are never very dark!
The following is a sample.





More roads: for black top roads, we use our own ground foam http://www.easternmountainmodels.com/eng/html/groundfoam.html to simulate country roads that are usually sprayed with tar and relatively coarse granulate applied into the tar.

Dirt roads we do with ground and sifted lime stone, looks very natural (naturally[:)][:)]!)

[Anonymous]

Mark:

I use joint compound, which is more elastic than regular plaster and comes premixed in cans. It can be colored with regular modeling paint, tempra, or powdered chalks.

As I model the 1900-1915 era I like the fact that I can make the roads more irregular and thinner, socalled "pie crust" roads, than using precut dry materials. I use the precut screed method mentioned above.

Randy

[lupo]

Has anyone tried using picures of road, photoshopped together to long a strech and then printed on you inkjet printer?? I read some MR articles on building freightcars and bridges this way but what about roads?

[Eriediamond]

A bit of tid-bit info. Painting stripes. Remember that road stripes were all white prior the the late 60's, so a layout depicting earlier times would not have the yellow center lines we see today. Have fun, Ken

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by blondjocktx

Greetings,

What department in Hobby Lobby do you find it?

Mark in Texas

Christmas decorations.

[AntonioFP45]

Very good suggestions.

I had considered using drywall plaster for my upcoming layout's town, but joint compound sounds like a good choice as well (especially since I have a full unused bucket!)

Would be good to hear from more people here. It's neat to see that there are many different techniques used when it comes to realistic looking scenery!

Cheers! [swg][tup]

[fiatfan]

I use the drywall plaster for my roads. I also use it between the rails . First I mix a thin soup of plaster and to pour between the rails. When that hardens, it generally settles down to the height of the ties. I use ties (left over from when I used to hand lay switches) spiked on edge against the rail. Then I pour the second layer of plaster (a thicker mixture this time). When the plaster sets, remove the ties and color to suit your taste. Don't forget to mix some grey or black into the plaster so if the paint comes off, it won't look too bad.

I am considering looking for a different material (probably plastic) to spike against the rails. If the ties are not removed at the correct time, it can be difficult to remove them.

Godd luck with whatever method or combination of methods you choose!

Tom

[trolleyboy]

Hi for regular acr only roads I use the woodland scenics system. I find it easy to use but you do have to be quick. If I'm including rail i'll use plaster and the part between the rails i use the pre-mixed tube of polly -filla as it dires slower and gives you some fiddling time. TB

[challenger3802]

Thanks for tips, road laying will be a lot easier now!

Ian