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Weathering the locomotive

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  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Annpere MI
  • 190 posts
Weathering the locomotive
Posted by eng22 on Sunday, January 25, 2004 3:16 PM
I have been weathering my rolling stock and have reached the point where it is time to do the locomotive. I had no concern with box cars and such, I used dull coat, pastels, grime mix etc... As for the loco, should I take the body off before weathering to make certain that I do not foul up the motor, electronics and so on? Will dull coat make the windows look foggy? Any suggestions on the trucks, I have been looking at a picture of the prototype and they appear rusty/grimy to say the least.
Craig - Annpere MI, a cool place if you like trains and scrapyards
  • Member since
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  • From: Sarnia, Ontario
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Posted by ShaunCN on Sunday, January 25, 2004 5:02 PM
yes you should remove the body before weathering the locomoitve. wouldn't want to wreck the motor. :(

ShaunCN
derailment? what derailment? All reports of derailments are lies. Their are no derailments within a hundreed miles of here.
  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 25, 2004 5:10 PM
Using dullcote will make the windows look foggy. To prevent this, remove the plastic window insert from the shell before you weather it, or cover each of the windows with a small piece of masking tape. One way you could weather the trucks is to remove the sideframes (if your locomotive is designed that way) and weather them using the same methods you used on the shell. I reccomend you continue to refer to photos, because I've learned that weathering turns out better when I have a photograph or two that shows the look I am trying to re-create.

Josh Ziegler
Spokane, WA
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 25, 2004 5:18 PM
Want a little trick using Dullcoat? [:p]Cut out small pieces of masking tape in the shape of the wiper path and put them on the glass. Weather the model and dullcote, then remove the tape. It looks like the unit has been running with its wipers in use![8D]

But while were at it, lets try to wean ourselves off of Dullcote. Testors Dullcote has talc in it to flatten the finish, and has a tendency to turn white at the most inopportune times.[:(!] I much rather use Floquil Flat finish from an airbrush. Much smoother, less mottled than Dullcote.[:D]
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Annpere MI
  • 190 posts
Posted by eng22 on Sunday, January 25, 2004 6:23 PM
QUOTE:
But while were at it, lets try to wean ourselves off of Dullcote. Testors Dullcote has talc in it to flatten the finish, and has a tendency to turn white at the most inopportune times.[:(!] I much rather use Floquil Flat finish from an airbrush. Much smoother, less mottled than Dullcote.[:D]


As it happens, I ran out of dullcote and I will try the Floquil. Guess I need to by an airbrush. I was thinking about a Badger
Craig - Annpere MI, a cool place if you like trains and scrapyards
  • Member since
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  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,616 posts
Posted by dehusman on Sunday, January 25, 2004 7:13 PM
If you remove the shell from the frame you will have a dirty car body with a clean underframe and fuel tanks etc.

Weather the entire unit whole. If you are putting so much paint on it that it fouls the motor and electronics, you are putting way way way way way too much weathering on. The worst thing you have to worry about is getting paint on the wheels that will impair electrical pick up or the weathering will paint a pattern on the wheels that will cause a strobe effect when the wheels roll. A piece of 3x5 car with a couple slots cut in it can mask off the wheels.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 25, 2004 7:38 PM
In my mind weathering should either be Airbrushed or drybrushed on using very little paint. Any application of paint should be sparingly. [2c]
  • Member since
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  • From: Midtown Sacramento
  • 3,340 posts
Posted by Jetrock on Sunday, January 25, 2004 8:46 PM
A lot depends on the prototype and how dingy it is. A brand-new passenger special will need little more than a little dust & grime around the trucks. An ancient yard-switcher will take enormous amounts of gunk and grime. My most vivid memories of Southern Pacific engines in the 70's and 80's was the incredible amount of crud and grime that got caked on to those old Geeps--making gray look even more dingy is no mean feat!

Personally, I prefer detailing trucks separately but using the same colors for grime and dirt--often the body will cover part of the trucks resulting in a "clean spot" on the trucks, when that spot, being less accessible, will probably have the most grime on it. Multiple washes on the body in Grimy Black and rust colors will provide the needed shine-killing properties I prefer in a beat-to-crud roadswitcher.

I like the "wiper" suggestion--I'll have to try that on my next project. As to replacing Dullcote, for my engines it might be worth it...
  • Member since
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  • From: California
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Posted by AggroJones on Monday, January 26, 2004 10:16 PM
Soak the truck sideframes in denatured alcohol to remove any grease. After that is dry, give it a wash of grimey black and mud. Floquil paint works best for this. Then, come in with a tiny point brush and paint the resessed parts of the truck with a mix of slightly diluted grimey black and rust. Let that dry for a few days. Then dry bru***he extremeties of the truck with earth. After all that, run a light india ink wash over the side frame. It takes a while to do, but the results are worth it.

"Being misunderstood is the fate of all true geniuses"

EXPERIMENTATION TO BRING INNOVATION

http://community.webshots.com/album/288541251nntnEK?start=588

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Annpere MI
  • 190 posts
Posted by eng22 on Tuesday, January 27, 2004 6:27 PM
This is a fantastic web site, thanks to all for the suggestions. I will be trying parts of each recomendation this weekend, I'll let you know the results.[:)]
Craig - Annpere MI, a cool place if you like trains and scrapyards

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