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Bingo! I think you hit the nail on the head. Unfortunatly, I can't help with any experience with other than code 100, but I think I remember a train stalling on a powered frog due to the flanges being too deep, and the bottom of the frog being covered in gunk, losing conductivity. I think it was cleared up by cleaning the bottom of the frog, whether the flange no longer touched or whether it was now conductive I don't remember. And this was code 100! <br />I would have my doubts about code 70, but code 83 has a good chance of working. Well, worse come to worse, you'd just be out one turnout. How about this: code 83 everywhere, including turnouts, except for code 70 spurs? Well, you'd have to buy one code 83 turnout and one length code 70 track, or find a helpful hobby store, then, buy your track there, to pay them back for their great customer service! <br />I've heard of people turning down the flanges, at least on older brass models, I don't know how difficult this is, nor how to do it on your tender (don't forget about that). <br />P.S. I know of at least one Rivarossi (a Pacific) with a horn-hook coupler on the tender that will not accept the McHenry replacements, nor a Kadee. Check yours out, you may have to build a coupler pad out of styrene or something. (unless you use horn-hooks...)
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