Help with KD couplers

[joecool1212]

I have installed KD couplers on all my engines and and rolling stock. On a few athearns locos like the C44-9 and AC4400 the couplers have play up and down the screw is as tight as i can make it and still have it move but it is so loose if i have a long consist it uncouples up or down. On one unit i took out the metal post and used the KD lid but it was still loose. Anyone have any Ideas?? Joe

[Anonymous]

Get a KD coupler gauge to find the correct height for the coupler and shim the coupler to remove the play. You can either buy Kadee brand shims or make them.

http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page145.htm

Warren

[Anonymous]

I had this problem with my Dash 9s/AC4400s. Strangely enough, some were better than others - one loco was no trouble at all while the other two still aren't quite right. Best advice I can offer is to make sure there's no flash in the coupler pocket, and make sure the lid's smooth side is against the coupler. One thing I haven't tried, mainly due to being unable to find supplies of it, is Kadee's "Greas-em" coupler lube - this looks to be some kind of graphite granules as used to lube doorlocks judging by the instructions with the couplers.

[Anonymous]

I agree with Warren, Kadee # 205, Coupler Gauge and Kadee # 211 Shims (or make your own) is the only way to resolve the "up and down" play.

[Anonymous]

The problem here is that if you tighten the coupler pocket screw enough to remove the vertical play, it no longer self-centres properly. I was able to resolve this by tightening the screw just enough to avoid the coupler drooping, but not so tight as to stop the coupler from self-centreing. I can also say that Kadee's advice on couplers for the Dash 9 and AC4400 is incorrect - I tried using their recommended choice of #28s and found them to be far too low. #21s at the cab end and #27s at the back are a much better fit in my experience.

[Anonymous]

I've found that the only way to get couplers right is to use a gauge and take each piece of stock or loco individually.

I've done couplers on hundreds of cars, and even when the cars are "identical" some will need shiming and others won't, some will be too high and others too low. I really love the ones where one side needs shimming and the other doesn't. The variation is in the stock/loco itself, the coupler boxes, and the build. You just have to take each one and try it.

I've spent way too many hours on this. [;)] What's even more fun is when you switch to metal wheels and have to check them all over again.

Warren

[Anonymous]

One of the more interesting coupler problems I've encountered is with the Athearn ACF covered hoppers. The underframes are often bowed upward in the middle of the car so that the couplers slant down on the ends. To make things worse, they don't both slant to the same degree, either!!!

John

[ndbprr]

Also watch any Athearn cars that use the flat sheet metal weight. they are sheared rather than stamped out and often have a twist in them. I check them on a flat surface because the ones the fit between the frame and the car floor will DEFINITELY bend the underframe down on at least one end making the coupler hang low. Also check the Athearn coupler pocket covers because they can be out of vertical they can look like any of the following /_I, I_\, |_|, or /_/. If they aren't square (like #3) they won't engage the ears correctly and fall off at some point.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ndbprr

Also check the Athearn coupler pocket covers because they can be out of vertical they can look like any of the following /_I, I_\, |_|, or /_/. If they aren't square (like #3) they won't engage the ears correctly and fall off at some point.

Don't even try to use the Athearn covers retaining features, drill and tap. They will fall off at the most inconvient time - like during a show.....

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Railroading_Brit

I had this problem with my Dash 9s/AC4400s. Strangely enough, some were better than others - one loco was no trouble at all while the other two still aren't quite right. Best advice I can offer is to make sure there's no flash in the coupler pocket, and make sure the lid's smooth side is against the coupler. One thing I haven't tried, mainly due to being unable to find supplies of it, is Kadee's "Greas-em" coupler lube - this looks to be some kind of graphite granules as used to lube doorlocks judging by the instructions with the couplers.

"Greas-em" will not solve any looseness issue.

You can get the same stuff at Home Depot in the lock section (or any other place that deals in locks & keys), ask for powdered graphite.