DCC Blocks

[Anonymous]

Okay, Okay... You've heard me talk a lot about my DC/CTC setup on my 5'x12' layout so don't fall out of your chair laughing. [:D] However, collectively you've got me thinking that I should go DCC. [:I] It's the initial cost that has been holding me back.

I only have track laid on the return loops at this point. Holiday expenses have curtailed construction. I have both rails on the return loops insulated as I planned for DC blocks. If I go DCC, I have read here on the forum that some blocks will still be required.

• Will the return loops need to be separate blocks?
• How do I decide how many blocks or where blocks need to be?
• Do I need to set up a CTC with toggle switches to control these blocks?

Once you've stopped ROFLOL I could use some help - [sigh]

[CP5170]

The return loops will have to be blocked. There are auto-reverse units on the market that eliminate the need for toggle switches.

As for how many blocks do you need? That answer depends on what you want to accomplish. e.g. I want to eventually signal my layout so I have many blocks.

As to control of the blocks, there is no need for toggle switches. All blocks have two leads to the main bus. Your control is with the locomotives not the track except for return loops.

Hope this helps...Ken

[nfmisso]

Take a look at:
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track.htm
and
http://www.dcctrains.com/tonystips/dccprimer/wiring/index.htm

[Anonymous]

Blocks is kind of an individual thing in DCC. Some guys are in a hurry and hook the DCC unit up to their tracks with one set of feeders and run it for years without any problems and the track is all one block. Some guys with larger layouts will only have 6 to 8 blocks on their DCC system. Others will have blocks all over the place.

I'm one of those who has massive amounts of blocks on the layout. Every flex track is its own block and turnouts. Of course if the track needs to be 39 inches long and the flex track is only 36 inches long, I will use metal joiners and solder the remaining 3 inches creating the one 39 inch long block. Same with crossovers, the straight piece of track between the two turnouts will be metal joined and soldered to one turnout, and gapped at the other end, so it becomes part of the turnout block. Each block has its own set of feeders; in fact, a buddy of mine does the same thing with blocks but uses TWO sets of feeders to every block.

I set up my blocks this way (lots of em and one set of feeders) so that I can isolate electrical problems without having to be a great detective. So if a train won't run on a piece of flex track I know that is exactly where the problem is. Secondly, I want to plan on computer running and signalling but I am not sure what I am doing. By creating many, many blocks I can adapt to the situation required much more easily than trying to create more blocks than I have already set up.

Remember the blocks don't need any toggle switches so I use plastic rail joiners for the great majority of my "joins." On curves, I use metal joiners and soldering on the outside rail only, with the inside rail gapped. This way the rail can hold the curve better without a kink at the joints.

Most of us are like you and have to buy the DCC system in bits and pieces. So lets say you buy the Digitrax Zephyr, well other than a couple of decoders you will also buy, you won't purchase much more for your DCC system for another couple of months. Then you will buy your auto-reversing units for your track. Acquisition is slow, but you will be learning as you go so slow may not be a bad thing.

Starting out early with a DCC system is a wonderful motivator to get the track in and something up running. So it isn't as foolish as it sounds to buy the DCC system before much track is laid. Think out sad it would be for you to have lets say one third of your track in but you can't run anything because your waiting for your DCC system. If you get the system first, then you can test track and run some goodies as you proceed.