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A few questions about resurrecting my old HO Set
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[quote]QUOTE: <i>Originally posted by DT1967</i> <br /><br />First let me explain what my goal is. <br /> <br />1.) I'm trying to get my old layout running from circa 1978. It's a mix of Tyco and Atlas track to make an oval with an inside passing line. <br />[/quote] <br />That's great! I got my start in 1977 with Bachmann set. I had an oval on 1/2 sheet of plywood with a paper mache mountain, a station, and a team track... All nostalgic now...! <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />2.) I have three helpers aged 5(in a few weeks) 3, and 2. So I want something durable but not a massive amount of time or cash. A starter set for the boys if you will not my dream model RR. <br /> <br />I'm posting here because this forum seems to be a little more open to these questions: <br /> <br /> I'll be replacing the old brass track with new silver-nickel track but want to pratice first. For some reason my brother pulled up the track and I have it loosely put back in place. Cleaned w/ a bright boy and the track works ok but have some dead spots. <br />[/quote] <br />The brass track should be fine, once it is cleaned and soldered. It needs a bit more cleaning than nickel silver, but is fine for a starter project. The cleaning is required since the oxide of brass does not conduct electricity, while the oxide of nickel silver does, so you can get away with less maintenance. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br /> <br />1.) When you solder the track together is it required to remove the ties or if you're careful can you skip this? <br />[/quote] <br />Be sure to use a heat sink on either side of the joint (a wet cloth, or heavy metal object set on the rails will work). Also use flux, and tin everything before so that the actual soldering only takes a few seconds. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br /> <br />2.) Any track components that I should avoid soldering i.e. turnouts? <br />[/quote] <br />Not really, but you should leave some gaps for expansion. In this case, use the rail joiners to keep everything aligned, but allow a small gap when you fasten the track to the roadbed. If you want to ensure electrical connectivity you can solder a jumper across the joint. Just be sure to solder it to the outside of the rails, not the inside. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />3.) My 25 year cork has seem better days any suggestions on a roadbed? Never ballasted it since I couldn't decide how I wanted it to look. <br />[/quote] <br />AMI Instant roadbed looks good, but may be expensive - I have no experience with it. However, if the cork is not crumbly, I would think it would be ok to ballast even now. You can reattach the track with adhesive caulk - makes it easier to lift if necessary. Do a search at trains.com and you should find a pdf file of an article from Model Railroader about how to do it. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />4.) Rerailers are they really necessary if you lay the track right. I have 18" radius curves to fit to a 4'X8' table. <br />[/quote] <br />Rerailers are cheap ways to make road crossings, since that is usually how they come. With a bit of work, they can be incorporated into the layout. Alternately, you may want one in your tunnel (if you have one) so that the chances of problems are lessened. Having said all that, I do not have any on my layout. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />5.) Wahl Clipper oil where is it availible? I need to clean my locomotive wheels or other methods? <br />[/quote] <br />You can use alcohol on a q-tip to remove gunk from the wheels of your engines and rolling stock. Goo gone is also good, but it leaves a bit of reside that you must get off or it will attract dirt faster. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />6.) is there anywhere that I can find exploded views off how to disassemble locomotives for cleaning and lubrication? I have some 70's series Tycos, Baumanns, Athrean and AHM. <br />[/quote] <br />Not that I know of, but these older locos are relatively easy to get apart - to a point. Just take you time, and only do one at a time so you don't get parts mixed up. Usually the truck assemblys come apart by prying the frames outward - just watch out for gears dropping out unexpectedly. I have heard that brake cleaner fluid is good for removing old grease and oil, and will not harm plastic gears. When you reassemble, remember grease is for gears, and a little (very little) goes a long way. Aplly it with the head of a pin, not a squirt driectly from the tube! <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />7.) With the AHM the wheels in the back truck were loose in the box. Is there anywhere I can find a set off assembly instructions? I need to figure out if the axle wiper goes above or below the axles. <br />[/quote] <br />I am not sure about this particular loco, but the shape of the wiper might give you a clue. On my "pick-up" equipped tenders, the wipers ride on top of the axel. Whatever puts tension on the wiper to keep it pressed against the axel should work. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />8.) I've tested out the power unit and it's ok.. Anything else I need to check out? <br />[/quote] <br />As long as it is not smoking, or heating excessively, and it provides the output is says it does (usually on the back) everything should be good. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />9.) Besides changing the grease in the gear box and lubricating the motor are there any other areas I need to check out? <br />[/quote] <br />If the locos are equipped with headlights, you might want to make sure they work. Kids alwayslike headlights... <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />10.) Of course getting back into this I have a desire to get a new engine or two and saw a closeout on www.trainworld.com for proto2000 engines for $29.99. Seems like a great deal but can I go wrong? I have only one shot because of funds. <br />[/quote] <br />I have a Proto 2000 0-6-0 steam engine, and it is the nicest, quietest engine I have. I have heard their diesels are really good too. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />11.) Anything else I should do to make the layout more durable since I expect a leaving curve with my kids on how to treat it. <br />[/quote] <br />You might want to stay away from the "craftsman" style kits right now - you know, the highly detailed, takes 200 hours to build kind. My local train shop has a "used and consignment" section full of buildings for only a few dollars each. With a bit of work, and a bit of pain, they are very servicable. <br />[quote]QUOTE: <br />Thanks in advance, <br /> <br />DT <br /> <br />PS I plan to pratice soldering and laying the track with adhesive using the brass track but wanted the experts opinions before starting. <br />[/quote] <br /> <br />Welcome to the forum, and the hobby. I hope you enjoy this with the kids. <br /> <br />Andrew <br />
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