Proto 2000 GP38-2 to DCC

[tstage]

No, they came with incandescent bulbs.  I converted mine to LED.

Tom

[BumpyJack68]

I know this is old...but... are the P2K GP38-2 DCC ready equipped with LED lighting? Thanks.

[Stevert]

Steve,

Any likelihood that the squeal and dry worm bushings is associated somehow with/to the "cracked gear" issue that some of the P2K diesels were experiencing a few years ago?

Tom 

Tom,

  I can only speculate, but I would tend to think they're not directly related.   Maybe just two different symptoms that the driveline department had some issues?  The SD60 gear ratio "problem" would seem to fit into that as well. 

  On the other hand, I have three P2K SW9/1200's from early runs that haven't developed either the cracked gear syndrome or the gear tower squeal.  They run pretty decently and have been completely trouble-free.  So who knows?

Steve

[Meyblc]

Tstage,

Steve is right on the $$$ with the mention and link about the number board lights being a "known issue". I have 2 of these 38-2's and they BOTH had this issue. If you read Tony's web page (link provided above), it's a pretty easy fix. Once done, they run very nicely. Seeing the prices of these now-a-days, I wish I had waited and not purchased mine when they were $129.00 each. Oh-well....

Michael  

[tstage]

Steve,

Any likelihood that the squeal and dry worm bushings is associated somehow with/to the "cracked gear" issue that some of the P2K diesels were experiencing a few years ago?

Tom 

[Stevert]

P.S.  Steve, have you been pretty happy with your Proto Geeps?  How's there pulling power?

Tom,

  To be honest, I haven't run them that much.  I was using one of the GP9's in regular layout duty for a while, but it developed a squeal in the gear tower from dry worm bushings.  Amazing that happens even though the lower gearcase literally drips lubricant from the factory!

  Anyway, I put that one back on the shelf until I had a chance to get to all of them, since the fix involves tearing them down pretty far.  Then I decided to tear out and re-design half the layout, then this nuisance called "real life" got in the way, so the P2K's are still on the shelf.  Maybe when I'm retired...

Steve
 

[tstage]

Thanks, Steve.   Tim Smith @ Empire Northern mentioned to me the same lighting issues with the number boards on the GP38-2s that you did.  Thanks, too, for the decoder recommendations and the TTE link.  That will come in handy - if and when I ever decide to convert it to DCC.  Thanks again.

Tom

P.S.  Steve, have you been pretty happy with your Proto Geeps?  How's there pulling power?

[Stevert]

Tom,

  Haven't done any P2K GP38's myself (several P2K GP9's, 18's, and a 30, but no 38's), but I've read about the GP38-2's having number board wiring issues.  Here's a note from Tony's that gives an overview:   http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/2006/091806.htm

  I used the Digitrax DH163L0's on my GP9/18/30's since they don't require external resistors for the front and rear lights.  Of course, with the GP38-2's you'd still need resistors for the number boards, but I'd think that cutting back on how many you need to cram into each loco is a good thing (I like TCS A6X's in Genesis locos for that same reason...).

Steve
 

 

[bogp40]

Has anyone converted a "newer" Proto 2000 GP38-2 to DCC?  (By "newer" I mean with the Walthers prefix of "920-XXXXX".)  Is it a straightforward process?  Does it require buying a harness?  Thanks.

Tom

I haven't done any of the new GP38-2, but it must be very similar to any other recent P2Ks. I use the Digitrax 163LO which replaces the board then plug in the connector. There's no need to change out the bulbs as with other decoders. NCE and others should have a version of this also.

[tstage]

Has anyone converted a "newer" Proto 2000 GP38-2 to DCC?  (By "newer" I mean with the Walthers prefix of "920-XXXXX".)  Is it a straightforward process?  Does it require buying a harness?  Thanks.

Tom