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Flickering headlight

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  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Southington, CT
  • 106 posts
Posted by mthobbies on Thursday, August 12, 2021 8:02 AM

Depending on the duty cycle/frequency of the filckering, you could add a sufficiently large electrolytic capacitor between the positive headlight wire and ground.

-Matt

  • Member since
    February 2020
  • 31 posts
Posted by know2go on Wednesday, August 11, 2021 10:46 PM

Add keep alive to your loco's and cars. No cleaning will fix small dirt patches. Keep alive is the best.

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Friday, May 21, 2021 11:40 AM

Outsailing86

I've got one or two spots on the layout where the train stops. =-( 

 

If the locomotive runs everywhere else, then it's the track.

If it's the track, it's a continuity problem.

If it's a continuity problem, it could be dirt, it being a barrier, or poor mechanical connections from power to the rails.

If it's dirty tracks, or tires, you can clean those.  Might be time.

If it's poor mechanical connections, improve them, or make more of them.  Sometimes, all it takes is robustly attaching a pair of feeder wires to the rail segment where the train stops reliably.

Sometimes, all it takes is improving the supporting surface under the rails if the rails are allowed to sag under the weight of the locomotive. Joints that are unsupported will sag, and the sagging action splays them and introduces contaminants, even if human skin fragments.

Look, you HAVE TO enjoy this hobby...or you'll quit eventually.  Unfortunately for some, it means work.  It means brainwork, it means determination, it means doggedness, it means learning.  But, with a modicum of those, you can have a ton of fun operating trains reliably.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 21,669 posts
Posted by Overmod on Friday, May 21, 2021 7:06 AM

Outsailing86
I've got one or two spots on the layout where the train stops. =-( 

1.  Consider soldering some or all the rail joints in these sections.

2.  Read some of the threads on track gleaming that have appeared here over the years (go to the Community Search bar and try a few combinations of terms to get started).  What this calls for is good 'lining and surfacing' of the rail running surfaces (railhead around the gauge corner to the inside flange face) and then careful shaping, cleaning, and polishing of the railhead followed by burnishing.  

The idea is to get things as clean and electrically conductive as possible, throughout the running surfaces.  A fringe benefit will be smoother guiding and running of engines and cars.

I'd agree with the general principle of dropping a feeder wherever you find you have a dead or intermittent spot after you've cleaned and prepped the track.  But adding feeders to dirty or poorly-aligned trackwork won't solve much.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Miles City, Montana
  • 2,289 posts
Posted by FRRYKid on Friday, May 21, 2021 2:04 AM

I will preface my comments by saying I'm not a DCC person. (run DC block control) However, I agree that it sounds like the power/signal just isn't reaching those spots. The more feeders you put on you tracks the better. (i'd imagine that works the same for DCC as DC.) One almost can never have too many feeders. (I will admit one every 6" is probably too much but you get the idea.) If you can reach those spots, with the power OFF, check your rail with the ohms setting on an electrical tester. That setting checks for resistance. If there is not continuity or not a full reading, something isn't connected completely or at all.

"The only stupid question is the unasked question."
Brain waves can power an electric train. RealFact #832 from Snapple.
  • Member since
    April 2018
  • 198 posts
Posted by Outsailing86 on Thursday, May 20, 2021 8:40 PM

I've got one or two spots on the layout where the train stops. =-( 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • 21,669 posts
Posted by Overmod on Thursday, May 20, 2021 4:48 PM

If cleaning... or gleaming... the problem areas doesn't work or isn't convenient, I would strongly consider installing at least a small keepalive.  I note the OP does not complain that there is crippling dropout or LOS of the DCC signal indication, so continuous voltage drop in the track voltage reaching the decoder but not either arcing noise or complete dropouts might be in the differential diagnosis.

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  • From: Northeast OH
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Posted by tstage on Thursday, May 20, 2021 4:36 PM

Ugh - Can't believe I forgot to include that one, Henry. Embarrassed

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Thursday, May 20, 2021 4:19 PM

Wheels get dirty too.

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

Moderator
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Northeast OH
  • 17,249 posts
Posted by tstage on Thursday, May 20, 2021 4:09 PM

Two questions:

  1. When is the last time you cleaned/wiped down your track?
  2. How many feeder wires do you have on your layout?

Wiping down your track with a lint-free cloth and some 70% or 91% alcohol should take care of the flickering problem.  The slowing down could be due to too few feeders or faulty rail joiners not making good conductivity with your track and your DCC system.

You might also want to check to see how clean the wheel pickups are on your locomotive.  Sometimes lint or dirt can get wedged between the pickups and the wheels; giving you poor or spotty conductivity to your motor.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    April 2018
  • 198 posts
Flickering headlight
Posted by Outsailing86 on Thursday, May 20, 2021 2:57 PM

i ran an engine around the track and noticed the headlight flickering and at a few places it would slow down to almost a crawl. How can I fix these issues. Ho scale DCC 

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