Always insist on genuine GERN flux. Nothing is finer!
It's sort of like the DE replacement I use in my pool filter - a bag the size of a 50 pound bag of DE is only 40 pounds, but contains the same volume of material. You use the same number of the same size scoops per filter area, but it's lighter weight.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker And to file under the "why so serious" column - the BEST flux to use is always Gern flux, makes all solder joints 3% better! --Randy
And to file under the "why so serious" column - the BEST flux to use is always Gern flux, makes all solder joints 3% better!
Caveat emptor:
Wayne
Tix was made for use with its companion solder, which had a melting point (range) nearly 100F lower than 63/37 eutectic. I believe it is a zinc-chloride flux and its residue is supposed to be electrically conductive, so yes, I'd wash it well after use in most cases.
What's a bit weird about this is that Tix is primarily an indium-tin formula with slight lead and traces of nickel and platinum. The Indium Co. indicates that chloride residue in particular compromises joint integrity in these alloys. So I have to wonder if this is an expedient to stave off oxide-generation problems, which for indium-tin eutectic apparently start fairly promptly impairing proper joint integrity if the temperature reaches much more than about 50 F over liquidus.
Moral: scrub that flux if you use it, and scrub it fairly quick...
Is Tix flux considered a need to clearn flux? Years ago a hobby shop sold me a little bottle of Tix. It worked great but I later learned it would leave a residue that would cause corrosion. I have since bought some flux paste which is seems like a no-clean flux, but I was wondering about the Tix.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
rrinkerthe BEST flux to use is always Gern flux, makes all solder joints 3% better!
Thanks to all who replied to my question. I appreciate your time. I now understand the true meaning of "no clean." Now, I need to start soldering feeder wires!
SeeYou190Sorry, still needs to be cleaned to look good...
... and very probably if you intend to paint it, which is my preference for sides of rail after joining anyway, so "yes".
Since the thread subject was 'electronics' I didn't complicate things further with appearance other than to note that no-clean fluxed joints could look ugly but still be relatively electrically passive. Since we are extending the discussion, the issue of cleaning "no-clean" does become more significant.
Overmod Use for example MG Chemicals MG8351 (if you like liquid) or MG8341 (for paste) -- these are desirably low halogen/halide. Note that 'no clean' in electrical soldering does not mean 'no residue'; it means that the residue is relatively nonconducting (some brands with high solids look positively awful!) and you have to be careful if trying to remove the residue as most of the 'legacy' industry cleaners have solvents requiring careful use. Paradoxically, it is harder to clean no-clean flux residue than something like RMA rosin. The recommendation I was given for no-clean removal is Chemtronics Flux-Off No Clean Plus (I got mine from Mouser; there are other and perhaps cheaper sources).
Use for example MG Chemicals MG8351 (if you like liquid) or MG8341 (for paste) -- these are desirably low halogen/halide.
Note that 'no clean' in electrical soldering does not mean 'no residue'; it means that the residue is relatively nonconducting (some brands with high solids look positively awful!) and you have to be careful if trying to remove the residue as most of the 'legacy' industry cleaners have solvents requiring careful use. Paradoxically, it is harder to clean no-clean flux residue than something like RMA rosin.
The recommendation I was given for no-clean removal is Chemtronics Flux-Off No Clean Plus (I got mine from Mouser; there are other and perhaps cheaper sources).
The stuff I use is water soluable, so it cleans off easily. Isopropyl just works a bit better than water plus dries clean with no residue (even WITH rinse aids, glasses get spots from the water here, too much dissolved solids in it - and I use enough distilled water for other things to keep buying more). Even a damp cloth will wiper off the residue from the Supersafe flux.
starman A “no clean” flux would be nice to use. Thanks.
Sorry, still needs to be cleaned to look good, so you would need to clean it for soldered track joints.
You will not need to clean it for wiring connections to terminals or bus wires.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
It all needs cleaning off to look nice. "No clean" generally means no acidic residue to corrode the joint if not cleaned off - though that also depends on all the flux that was applied being activated.
I use this: https://www.hnflux.com/page22.html
(ok, so they aren't the most up to date web site in the world, but I've ordered the flux and solder from here with no problems). They do say that it does not have to be washed off rails after soldering - though if you are going to paint the rails after soldering the feeders, I would at least wipe the residue off even if it won;t actually cause any damage, just like anything else it can interfere with the paint adhering to the rail. I use alcohol wipes to clean it up, I really need to get some srpay cleaner for PCBs since I can't exactly wash off boards with electromechanical devices that aren't water sealed. The alcohol swaps make the boards look worse, as the lead cutoffs catch the fibers. Then I have to blow those off after they dry.
Guess I need to get more - the manufactureer's web site says the stuff has a shelf life of 2 years from date of manufacturer. The jar I've been using (and still has more than 3/4 of it left) is close to 14 years old. Still activates and works fine though. I use the paste, since it stays put - I put it in the rail joiner before soldering track sections together, etc.
I have read in several post, over time, where a reference is made to “no clean” flux. I assume this means that, after soldering, no cleaning is necessary. Can someone point me to a good “no clean” flux. I am ready to add feeders between my bus and track. A “no clean” flux would be nice to use. Thanks.