My son bought a MTH Bee Line Heritage SD70ACe. While running it on our layout it shorted out over a turnout. Now nothing works. Tried to use DC and still nothing. All of our other DCC engine work on both the Digitrax and DC. I'm sure the decoder is junk now. Is it worth replacing the decoder with the same MTH one or is there a better one?
We have the Digitrax DCC DC50 Zephyr system.
The decoder may be shot but I'd try resetting it before tossing it away.I've had a similar mishap (with another brand of decoder though) and it only had lost its programmed datas.Resetting may have it working again on 03.
Durango360 While running it on our layout it shorted out over a turnout. Now nothing works. Tried to use DC and still nothing. All of our other DCC engine work on both the Digitrax and DC.
While running it on our layout it shorted out over a turnout. Now nothing works. Tried to use DC and still nothing. All of our other DCC engine work on both the Digitrax and DC.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
I did try resetting to factory decoder settings using loco 55 and programing CV55 while on the main using OPS mode.
No other locos were on the track at the time. The turnout was not set against the loco. Not sure it was a direct short either as he said that the Digitrax box was fine (not flashing across the display and the track indicatior as solid lite, not flashing either). I assumed it was a short because it happen to be on a turnout at the time. The turnout is old and not "DCC friendly" however it does have a plastic frog.
When the power is on there is a very slight "hum" coming from the engine which doesn't go away till you turn of the track power and unplug the Digitrax. Probably not good.
This is perhaps a remote possibility, but before ripping out the decoder I would make sure that the motor turns freely.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I had an MTH PS3 alco PA that managed to short its self out. I also have an mth gs-4 that had a bad buzzing problem before I sent it back to the factory. My advise: send it back to mth and try to get your money back; their electronics are junk.
Ps: if you can find the same locomotive in "dcc ready" I would jump on that. I've had good luck with soundtraxx decoder installs in mth diesels. More reliable, better sounding, and without all of the MTH specific B.S.
Sending it back is out of the question. The SP heritage was purchased over Ebay (used but unopened). The reading one that does not currently run was purchased at a hobby show. I'm sure it was used but I dont know how much. Incidently the SP heritage has also developed a slight buzzing sound. When it was first run it was quite. Now it's begining to sound like my old Athearn (not near as bad).
Bummer.
in that case, I would tear all of the mth junk out and go back in with soundtraxx decoders and speakers. It'll cost you around $100 per locomotive but at least you'll end up with something that works properly. I think there are some youtube vids that cover the installation.
I think MTH makes beautiful trains, but their packaging should read something like this:
"HO TRAINS THAT DO MORE*"
*sorry, but we don't actually know anything about electronics, you'll have to do that part yourself.
Looks like I need the Soundtraxx TSU1000 for the SD70Ace. #827115. Plus whatever speakers fit.
When I get time I am going to wire the motor to the pickups and see if it runs in DC. Not sure I know any other way of checking to see if the motor is good and the decoder is bad....
That sounds right. Depending on what speaker you get you may have to remove some metal on the chassis to fit make it fit (make sure to include the speaker housing in your measurments). you don't need a fancy mill to do this, i've made it happen in the past with a hobby hack saw and a drill press.
Also, one thing you want to pay close attension to is the lights. Do your research to make sure you get the correct amount of power into the LEDs on your locomotive (you may need to add resistors to the decoder's function outputs). The last thing you want is to add LED replacement to your to-do list.
Cool, thanks for the information. I don't want to add any more to my list.