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Need More Help ! !............Brass Thickness For Wipers ??

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Need More Help ! !............Brass Thickness For Wipers ??
Posted by superbe on Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:06 PM

While working on a caboose to correct the coupler height I dropped a wiper on the cement floor and it has disappeared into the nether nether land.  It wouldn't be so bad except that I previously dropped a few small screws and had no trouble finding them.

So my question is, what thickness of brass can I use to make a wiper? Lowe's has a sheet that is .010 inches thick. Is this too thick??

Thanks for your help.

Bob

PS: I tried the search !!

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Posted by maxman on Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:54 PM

Is this a windshield wiper?

Rather than go to Lowes you could try making a wheel wiper from a Kadee #5 coupler flat spring.  I've seen that done in several threads.

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Posted by gregc on Tuesday, December 23, 2014 3:58 PM

maxman
Rather than go to Lowes you could try making a wheel wiper from a Kadee #5 coupler flat spring.  I've seen that done in several threads.

you really want phosphor bronze instead of brass.  I bought some at my LHS, but it looks like Ace hardware sells sheets

i believe the kadee spring can be used to make wipers for trucks, but that may be what you need

greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading

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Posted by richg1998 on Tuesday, December 23, 2014 4:36 PM

If you use the Kadee, here is a suggestion.

http://www.55n3.org/cars/tender_wipers/

I use to have a link that showed the wiper riding on top of the wheel thread but lost the link.

rich

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Posted by mlehman on Wednesday, December 24, 2014 4:47 PM

gregc
you really want phosphor bronze instead of brass.

greg's right on this. Brass will sorta work, but phosphor bronze sheet is much better. K&S sells small sheets of it. I found some at Hobby Lobby.

I actually tend to go with phosphor bronze spring wire for wipers, as it's more flexible and less drag. Tichy sells the .010" (293-1101) and .020" (293-1103) diameter. I prefer the light touch of the .010" but the .020" is more robust if you need that.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by superbe on Thursday, December 25, 2014 9:37 AM

I'll pass on using the Kadee spring as there is no way I could manage to hold it let alone make it into a wiper due to my limitations. I'll try to replace the wiper as it was configured.

Glad to hear about the phophor bronze. I did locate it on Hobby Lobby and also on Micro Mark but M M sells multiple sheets in a package. M M did describe using their's for pick up shoes and is .008 thick.

Realizing I would also need a pair of shears I checked with Amazon and found a seller offering a .008 thick sheet and another a pair of small shears. With Amazon they give combined shipping so that's the way I'm going.

Thanks for good advice and I'll report back when the wiper is installed and works.

Bob

Realizin

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Posted by superbe on Monday, January 5, 2015 5:28 PM

This is the first time I've gotten into the inards of a locomotive or tender. When I removed the rear truck on the tender the bolt holding it on also held a wire connection on the inside of the tender. To reattach this wire I had to loosed and move a "board".

After putting eveything back together it seemed that everything had gone well but when I put it on the track there was a short. 

I've given it a good going over and put electrical tape where ever it looked like there could be a problem but it didn't do any good.

If some one has an idea of what the problem could be or where to look for the trouble I'd sure appreciate hearing from you.

Thanks,

Bob 

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Posted by superbe on Monday, January 5, 2015 7:01 PM

Been doing some more thinking.

Since the positive wire is coming from the rear axel and the negative from the front, wouldn't the wheel set have to be polarized in some way?

Bob

 

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Posted by rrinker on Monday, January 5, 2015 7:47 PM

 Yes, one truck needs to have the insulated wheels on the right side, and the other truck needs the insulated wheels on the left side. Common problem when working on such a loco, one of the trucks gets spun around, so when you set it on the rails - dead short through the wiring. This is assuming that one wheel is insulated from the axle around the hub. If both are, then the only way to pick up power is by rubbing on the wheels themselves, but that also means you cna do 8 wheel pickup from the tender.

                    --Randy

 


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Posted by superbe on Monday, January 5, 2015 10:21 PM

Randy

You had it right....turned the truck 180 degrees.....problem solved....

Thanks,

Bob

PS: .008 phosphor brass is heavier than what came with the tender but works well.

Edit: I said in original post that I was working with a caboose......wow what a senior moment....it was tender for a 4-6-0 steamer

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Posted by BroadwayLion on Tuesday, January 6, 2015 9:07 AM

Ah... This is the first time I looked into this thread. I thought you wanted to make a windshield wiper. I was wondering why you asked here, but did not lool.

Silly LION

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Posted by superbe on Saturday, January 10, 2015 3:50 PM

After getting the polarity of both tender trucks right another problem....

1. Put the tender on the track... no short.

2 Connect loco and tender.....there is a short......

3. disconnect loco from tender and put each on track by themselves and no short.

4. Put both on track but not connected......no short.

5. Thinking that the tender wheels although syncronized might be reversed from loco I turn both tender trucks 180 but with the same results.

There must be a problem with the connectors when in the loco sockets. If so what?

Your thoughts PLEASE.

Bob

 

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