I am getting ready to build a bridge lift out, or a bridge on hinges for my layout. What are some good ideas and how do you wire the lift out? I run DCC... Please include any pictures of your lift out or hinged bridges and please also include how you wired it. Thanks
LION has no lift outs, so him can give you no pictures. But him thinks, whatever you do, you want to be able to kill the power to the whole branch on both sides of the lift-out to prevent accidents. Perhaps using automotive fuses as switches can disconnect the power when you remove the lift out. It can also guide the placement of the lift bridge to assure that it is seated correctly.
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
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Here is how my lifout is electrified:
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The bridge is a square cross-section base with a wide 3/4" X 7" top surface sub-roadbed. Driven into the nether surface corners, a the ends, is a 1/2" wood screw acting like bridge shoes. The shoes rest on inverted metal L-brackets, the kind you might find in cabinetry. The brackets are fed by feeders from the bus, the 'shoes' have bared copper wire wrapped around them with the tips wanting to spring below the heads for assured pickup against the brackets. The other end of the bared wrapped wire feeders goes up to a rail. In my case, shown in the next photo, my liftout holds a double crossover, so each screw 'shoe' has two (2) bared wire ends wrapped around it with those feeders routed to their appropriate rails on either side of the double crossover.
If at all possible, have the power to the track each side of your lift out/bridge disconnect when it is open. This keeps trains from taking a dive to the floor below. The general recommendation seems to be the length of your longest train, so you can't back cars off.
One club that comes to a show I go to, has a tip up bridge with the hinges on top, but hidden under a piece of old carpet, which has been made to look like a farm field. If I ever get to build mine, I have a piece of the often disliked grass mat which I will put over the hinges, then add more scenic material. Installing the hinges on the top surface is the simplest way I have seen to get reliable alignment and support.
The contact method above is very similar to others I have seen. Seems to work well. If you use small bolts with nuts on them, you can adjust the height to maintain proper alignment, if needed.
Good luck,
Richard