Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Atlas Remote Switch Machines

1173 views
5 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: Columbia, IL
  • 394 posts
Atlas Remote Switch Machines
Posted by wdcrvr on Thursday, August 8, 2013 5:34 PM

I had two Alas remote switch machines set up to be controlled by a single Atlas switch control box.  I did this because it was a crossover and I would always want both turnouts to either be open or closed at the same time.  I powered them with the AC feed off an old power unit and everything worked fine.  Lately they have not been responding well to the signal from the switch control box.  One works better than the other.

 

I am wondering if manually moving the turnouts when the power is not connected to the switch control box would have a detrimental effect on the remote switch machines?  I did that sometimes when I forgot to power up the control box before running a train.

I am relatively new to all of this and these switch machines are probably one of my weakest links.  So any  suggestions as to what the problem might be or how to go about diagnosing the problem would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

wdcrvr

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
  • 21,483 posts
Posted by MisterBeasley on Thursday, August 8, 2013 8:11 PM

Twin-coil machines like the Atlas take a decent amount of power to operate.  All the power is required at once.  Since you're running two on the same line, you need enough power for both of them to run simultaneously.  At the same time, you've probably got a run of thin wires to feed them, which means you're also getting some voltage loss from the wire.

The solution is a Capacitive Discharge circuit, also known as a CD circuit.  You can buy one of these commercially.  The "Snapper" is one model, and there are others.  Or, you can build one yourself with a few parts from Radio Shack.  A CD circuit stores energy in a capacitor, and then releases it all at once when called for.  This gives a much bigger kick than just running directly off a power supply.  Also, once the big jolt is done, the circuit limits the current after that.  If your toggle switch sticks, as sometimes happens, this will protect your switch machines from burning out.

And no, you did no damage by moving the machines manually.  They are designed to let you do that without damage.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • 602 posts
Posted by NP01 on Friday, August 9, 2013 12:43 AM

Since they worked before and don't work now, I suspect that lubrication could be a problem. People have suggested graphite powder but I have bot tried this. 

I am guessing you are using the 15V AC terminals from your power pack. They should be ok driving two switch machines in parallel. Three gets into problems. 

NP. 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Friday, August 9, 2013 3:11 AM

NPO1,

Other's advice is correct,,,,,mine is that you had to have used some force to move the one that didn't throw and either damaged it,or got it out of sync.. Try only connecting that one and see if it will work alone,,If it will,hook them both together again and try it.. All I use are Atlas under table machines and my own normally open push buttons,with dedicated 4amp supply,,never had a problem with 45 of them..

Good Luck,

Cheers,

Frank

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Chi-Town
  • 7,712 posts
Posted by zstripe on Friday, August 9, 2013 3:19 AM

WDCRVR,

I just realized,,that I addressed my reply to the wrong poster,,,,what I replied to NPO1,should have been for You,the original poster..

Sorry,my error..

Cheers,

Frank

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Detroit, Michigan
  • 2,284 posts
Posted by Soo Line fan on Tuesday, August 13, 2013 8:58 AM

You can diagnose this several ways. Using a DMM is the quickest but you need electrical skill to understand the readings.

The other way is like Frank suggested. Basically divide and substitute.

Start by disconnecting the center terminal of the good turnout machine. If the bad turnout now works, I would suspect a weak power supply. The CD unit Mister B mentioned is a great idea for the Atlas machines.

If the bad turnout machine still does not work, try swapping the wiring from the good turnout machine to the bad.

Does the problem remain the same or did it move to the good machine?

If the previously bad turnout machine still does not work, I would look at a binding condition.

If the problem moves to the good turnout machine, I would suspect a wiring problem.

Jim

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!