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Can't get a train running

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  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Clearlake, California. USA
  • 869 posts
Posted by Lake on Friday, August 9, 2013 7:02 PM

It seems the Hustle Muscle does not really want help as he does not reply to many of the questions that posters ask him.

At least it seams that way to me. If I am wrong then, sorry.

Ken G Price   My N-Scale Layout

Digitrax Super Empire Builder Radio System. South Valley Texas Railroad. SVTRR

N-Scale out west. 1996-1998 or so! UP, SP, Missouri Pacific, C&NW.

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Posted by locoi1sa on Friday, August 9, 2013 6:44 PM

I would scrap the Athearn board and hardwire a decoder in it. I have run into a few faulty boards in locos before. You can actually cut off the nine pin harness and use the eight pin plug.

 Get yourself a smaller soldering pencil with a fine tip on it for the small things.

          Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

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  • From: Dearborn Station
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Posted by richhotrain on Friday, August 9, 2013 6:00 PM

If you plan to install more decoders in the future, do yourself a favor and buy a decoder tester.  They are not that expensive, and you can determine that the decoder is good in all respects before installing it in the loco.  And, be gentle when installing or removing a decoder, but you don't need me to tell you that.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by hustle_muscle on Friday, August 9, 2013 5:50 PM

What the entire story here was I bought the decoder and when I installed it, it wouldn't respond to anything. The lights wouldn't turn on and the loco wouldn't move. Resetting it didn't do anything, so I sent it back to Digitrax. I had to re-solder those wires on the DCC plug, because they tore off when I took out the decoder.

Sure hope I can actually run a train once it gets back.

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Posted by richhotrain on Friday, August 9, 2013 5:28 PM

Just curious, did you send the DH123D decoder back to Digitrax?  What happened?

A circuit board has two enemies, heat and short circuits.  If the loco ran in DC, you are probably OK.

Burning the insulation on a wire is not fatal if that is all you did.  Of course, the insulation is there to protect the wire and other conductive elements around it.

Rich

 

Alton Junction

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Posted by hustle_muscle on Friday, August 9, 2013 5:11 PM

I'll try to make it a simpler question for myself and all. Basically, is it ok if some wire insulation is burned a little bit from soldering? The connection is solid and I ran the train in DC and it ran good. I'm gonna see if it works when my decoder comes back from Digitrax. I'm fairly new to DCC and I don't have the equipment for testing decoders and what-not.

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  • From: Dearborn Station
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Posted by richhotrain on Friday, August 9, 2013 4:25 PM

Three ways to find out.

One, try to run it.

Two, see if you can program it or read CVs on the Programming Track.

Three, use a decoder tester to see if it is still alive.

Before you do, though, make sure that solder for each wire is not touching the solder for the other wire.  If it is, clean it up first.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by hustle_muscle on Friday, August 9, 2013 4:04 PM

The 2 wires were ripped off when I took the decoder off. I re-soldered them (i'm not the best solderer. The insulation burned a little bit from the soldering iron) and i'm wondering if the plug is still usable.

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Posted by richhotrain on Friday, August 9, 2013 3:56 PM

Yikes, do you have a decoder tester? 

You may have toasted a transistor or two or shorted something out.

It sure doesn't look good.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by hustle_muscle on Friday, August 9, 2013 3:40 PM

Ok, I know this doesn't have much to do with this thread, but I had to re-solder 2 wires from the plug back onto the light board after they came undone after taking the decoder off. Does this look like the plug is still usable? (I know, some insulation burned a little bit. The re-soldered wires are the black and purple ones).

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http://rmd-painting.weebly.com/

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Posted by richhotrain on Friday, August 9, 2013 4:51 AM

rrinker

Depending on the adress set, NCE DOES require leading zeros. For short addresss, no leading zero, so just 3. Same as Digitrax. But NCE can also use 1-127 as a long address, and to select that you need to enter the leading zeros.

After 10 years of using my NCE PH-Pro, this numbering scheme still causes me grief.

A consist number cannot be higher than 127.  A “leading zero” is necessary for long addresses below 128. A long address between 1 and 127 will have an asterisk (*) before the loco address on the cab display.  Ugh.

Rich

 

Alton Junction

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Posted by rrinker on Thursday, August 8, 2013 9:44 PM

 You neve rhave to enter leading zeros with Digitrax - who taught you that?

If I want to run loco 12, I hit the 1` and 2 keys, that's it.  If I want loco 3, I hit the 3 key, that's it.

 

Depending on the adress set, NCE DOES require leading zeros. For short addresss, no leading zero, so just 3. Same as Digitrax. But NCE can also use 1-127 as a long address, and to select that you need to enter the leading zeros.

Digitrax avoids the issue, 1-127 is ALWAYS short, 128+ is ALWAYS long, so there are never any leading zeros to enter on Digitrax.

                 --Randy

 

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

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Posted by cacole on Thursday, August 8, 2013 6:56 PM

Read the Quick Setup guide in the front of the PowerCab manual and make sure you have everything connected exactly as shown in their diagram.  

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Posted by locoi1sa on Thursday, August 8, 2013 6:54 PM

Is the LED lit up on the Power Cabs plug panel? Use the flat cord, not the coiled cord. Plug it into the left hand socket and the LED should light. If not try the right socket.

         Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
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Posted by hustle_muscle on Thursday, August 8, 2013 6:33 PM

This is the first time I have used my Power Cab. I have it plugged in the 9-pin plug like it should be and I can't get the train running at all. When I try to program the decoder, I get "can not read CV" on my Power Cab throttle.

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Posted by locoi1sa on Thursday, August 8, 2013 6:18 PM

Have you used your Power Cab before this? Try the program track and read the decoder information.

       Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • 123 posts
Posted by hustle_muscle on Thursday, August 8, 2013 6:08 PM

I have the decoder plugged into the 9 pin socket. I have no idea what I'm supposed to do from here because I still can't get my train running even after trying to reset it.

Check out my work here:

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Posted by cacole on Thursday, August 8, 2013 5:22 PM

If you used the 8-pin plug you MUST remove the dummy plug that is in the 9-pin socket or the decoder will be burned up as soon as you apply power.

With the NCE PowerCab you do not need to enter leading zeros in the locomotive number like you do with a Digitrax system, so enter the address as just 3, not 03 or 003.

Try resetting the decoder by pressing the PROG/ESC button 4 times to enter "Program on the Program Track" and program CV 8=8.  Turn power off, then back on and try address 3.

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Posted by locoi1sa on Thursday, August 8, 2013 4:57 PM

Did you use the nine pin plug or the eight pin plug? Does it read anything on the program track? First step for ALL newly installed decoders is to the program track.

         Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • 123 posts
Can't get a train running
Posted by hustle_muscle on Thursday, August 8, 2013 4:54 PM

I recently installed a Digitrax DH123D decoder inside my Athearn GP35 with a DCC quick plug. I'm using it on my layout which uses an NCE Power Cab system and when I try running the train, it won't run when it's on its factory set address. Is there any way I can solve this problem? I'm getting power from the track to the Power Cab with 22 gauge wires with only 1 pair of terminal joiners.

Check out my work here:

http://rmd-painting.weebly.com/

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