Good morning everyone.
I got a Kato EMD GP 35 for Christmas, (brand new) way back in 1994. I never tried to use it because it's not DCC. I now would like to convert it to DCC W/ sound. What decoder would best fit this loco. I am sure, it is not DCC ready. It also says on the box Phase I b, if that means anything.Thanks,
Sam
Would help to know what scale we are working with. HO-N ?
Hi Sam,
Do you have a friend,or do you have a DC,Transformer,that you can test it on??Before you decide to convert it to DCC, weather it be N-Scale,or HO-Scale,it's a very good idea,to make sure it runs first..After sitting for almost 19yrs,it probably has hardened grease,in the truck gears and so forth...Just My Thought!!
Cheers,
Frank
I've been converting 20 or so 30-year-old HO scale Stewart/Kato and Atlas/Kato F3 and F7 locomotives for a club member, and I'm pretty sure the GP-35 uses the same mechanism. It seems that regardless of the locomotive type, the frames are exactly the same, and it is possible to install a LokSound Select decoder with a well baffled speaker into these frames.
You will need to modify the Kato circuit board by removing it and cutting off the back end just beyond the mounting screw. We then use a Dremel to grind away the protrusions in the center and on the front of the board, except the light tube mount.
A 3mm LED fits perfectly into the metal light tube, but be sure to put shrink wrap insulation on both leads so they don't short out. I solder blue and white wires to the LED leads and put a 1K Ohm resistor in one of the leads when they are connected to the decoder. I put shrink wrap over the resistor.
A one-inch round speaker aimed downward with a suitable baffle fits the rear of the frame. MRC's round speaker is a perfect fit.
Cut off the 8-pin plug that is on the LokSound Select and solder the decoder's gray and orange wires directly to the motor contacts; and the decoder's matching black and red input leads to the Kato trucks. A spare length of wire is used to bridge the space between the front and rear trucks so both trucks provide power to the decoder. Put shrink wrap over these connections. The black and gray wires go on the left, with orange and red wires on the right.
I use Kapton tape to hold the decoder in place between the Kato board's mounting screws, and over the speaker baffle.
LokSound Select decoders come from the factory with no sound scheme loaded, but most dealers who sell them can program them for you. Sources I have used are Litchfield Station, Ulrich Hobby Shop, and Empire Northern Models. I have the LokProgrammer, so I get the decoders without sounds loaded into them and program my own using files that can be downloaded from the ESU USA web site.
Hello,
Here are a couple Kato HO GP35 Phase 1b decoder install links, while the TCS link is not a sound installation might still be visually informative as to what you'll be up against. I've got a couple of these smooth running locos and have been kicking around the same idea. One note of caution unrelated to DCC: Inspect the geared wheel sets for cracks in the axle tubes, HO Kato drives of this era are prone to this defect, even new in the box.
Regards, Peter
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Kato/EMD_GP_35_Phase%20I%20b%20Special%20Edition/EMD_GP35_Phase_I_b%20Special%20Edition.html
http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=67316
Sorry for the lack of information, I should know better , but I model in ( HO )
Sound traxx 567 turbo.
A 567 Turbo decoder would be the correct sound you need for this loco.
The thing that I would do is trash the upper weight and the original light board and use a TSU-AT1000 decoder. (828038) Find a place for a 16X 35 MM speaker. Cut the light piping and used LED's for lights.