The motor I want to use is bipolar. Paisley's board looks good - and it's only $2 more assembled so I'll take the easy way out. My electronics training was Navy basic avionics and also airborne sonar and other ASW gear - definitely tube theory time,with just one week at the end on transistors: when I got to a helo squadron the AQS-10 dipping sonar was discrete transistors on circuit boards. The only thing I ever fixed was my Dad's old Magnavox radio/phono console, that used the speaker field coil (!) as a power supply filter choke! And I was aircrew - never worked in the shop, but did end up behind an M-60 over North Vietnam:
http://raunchyredskins.us/Operations/IG%2069%20Down/IG_69_Down_Caple.htm
http://raunchyredskins.us/Operations/IG%2069%20Down/IG_69_Down.htm (pictures)
Note: the definitely non-PC squadron nickname came from our radio call sign, "Indian Gal" - at least we didn't get "Tasty Nostril" like the Air Force EC-121 guys flying SAM watch at 60 feet or so, leaving four prop wakes on the water
rrinker You need to determine if your motor is bipolar or unipolar - Rob Paisley has circuits for both types on his page. Should be able to put something like this together for $10-$15, or you can order a complete kit from Rob for $26. http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/Stepper2012Unipolar.html http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/Stepper2012Bipolar.html --Randy
You need to determine if your motor is bipolar or unipolar - Rob Paisley has circuits for both types on his page. Should be able to put something like this together for $10-$15, or you can order a complete kit from Rob for $26.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/Stepper2012Unipolar.html
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/Stepper2012Bipolar.html
--Randy
Rob's circuits do work. I have made some.
I bought his parts for the DCC amp meter and it works just fine.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
would you be interested in building your own controller using this H-bridge?
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
woodone With the cost of stepper drive controllers being what they are. Up to $100.00 and more. If you don't use the full features of the stepper motor why use it? A simple DC motor will work just as well with a much lower cost. A simple gear reduction would work just fine. DPDT switch for direction control.
With the cost of stepper drive controllers being what they are. Up to $100.00 and more.
If you don't use the full features of the stepper motor why use it?
A simple DC motor will work just as well with a much lower cost. A simple gear reduction would work just fine. DPDT switch for direction control.
Well, for one, I've got the stepper motor, and only some old DC-71 style motors of doubtful performance - and they would need the gear reduction, drive train, etc. - whereas I already have the stepper with a 10 tpi cog and a big enough 10 tpi cog belt to fit around the Heljan string drive V-pulley. It fits quite well, drives without slipping, and gives a fair amount of reduction just from the about 1/4" dia. 20 tooth cog to the approx. 4" dia. pulley.
The controllers I've seen allow easy switch inputs for CW/CCW rotation, speed selection (using resistors to set the speeds desired), and single step nudging - a good solution for manual control.
I'm curious: what stepper motor features that would affect turntable operation am I not contemplating using?
I had the same idea before I bought my Walthers tt. Here is a stepper motor control kit that might work.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/MK-8096/USB-STEPPER-MOTOR-DRIVER/CONTROLLER-KIT/1.html
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Has anyone seen an inexpensive bipolar stepper motor controller?
I've got a couple good motors, out of old printers, and want ot use one for a turntable drive - 200 steps per revolution, 10 tooth/inch cog and belt, just need a way to run it CW or CCW, fast or slow or single step - anticipate manual / eyeball control for alignment.