Sized properly, installed correctly, and using quality connectors like 3M, IDCs work just fine, particularly in no-vibration installations. Skip any or all of those, and you get results like some have mentioned here. Like any other tool...
My go-to connectors?
Good ol' twist-on wirenuts. Yep, my layout is wired just like a house. They're cheap, work well when applied correctly, and allow easy reconfiguration. This is a very important feature when you're building in phases, as it allows simple and quick rewiring.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
maxmanHowever, the last time this subject came up I asked if these things are so bad how is it that they make thousands (millions?) of them and manage to sell them. No one gave me anything close to a reasonable answer.
The reason is they are included in every kind of add on accessory for automotive known to mankind. Go and look at any aftermarket radio, alarm, GPS, backseat TV, remove starter, boom boom rapper box , snow plow or trailer lighting kit. Depending on the kit, you may see a hand full in each package.
ATLANTIC CENTRALBeing an Electrician by original trade, I saw those things years ago, and they had a brief life refitting light fixtures in the 1980's. But the industry has largely abandoned them in favor of better products. The automotive industry also had a short love affair with these things - and I guess some people in that business still use them.
I have spoken to the service engineers at some of these companies. They are included for mister DIY. for the same reason MRs like them. They are easy. This prevents the aftermarket add on from being returned due to the DIYer not wanting to complete the installation. Hack shops like them also.
They are not included for the professional installer. The professional installer has the professional connectors on hand.
Good shops discard them and use butt / crimp / solder joints because they do not need the hassle of a returning customer. And because that is the OEM specified way to do a splice.
I like them as diagnostic aids. If I see one in a circuit I am trouble shooting, I can be 99% sure it is the fault. Rarely am I wrong.
Jim
maxman NittanyLion What are you people doing to your layouts to make them fail? I can understand, say, car wiring because there's all manner of stresses and conditions that aren't great for anything to survive long term. There is no doubt in my mind that some people have trouble with these. However, the last time this subject came up I asked if these things are so bad how is it that they make thousands (millions?) of them and manage to sell them. No one gave me anything close to a reasonable answer.
NittanyLion What are you people doing to your layouts to make them fail? I can understand, say, car wiring because there's all manner of stresses and conditions that aren't great for anything to survive long term.
What are you people doing to your layouts to make them fail?
I can understand, say, car wiring because there's all manner of stresses and conditions that aren't great for anything to survive long term.
There is no doubt in my mind that some people have trouble with these. However, the last time this subject came up I asked if these things are so bad how is it that they make thousands (millions?) of them and manage to sell them. No one gave me anything close to a reasonable answer.
There are lots of products in this world that are popular and successful not because they are good, but rather because they are cheap and fast - vinyl siding comes to mind.
In this "throw away" culture, many people don't keep stuff long enough to find out how "not durable" it is, and they then buy more, and throw that stuff out before it wears out as well (or they move, stop using the item, sell it, give it away, etc).
Being an Electrician by original trade, I saw those things years ago, and they had a brief life refitting light fixtures in the 1980's. But the industry has largely abandoned them in favor of better products. The automotive industry also had a short love affair with these things - and I guess some people in that business still use them.
But like Dave and Chuck, they are on my never ever list. First they are an invitation to "rats nest" wiring habits. Second they depend on facts no in evidence, that is consistent wire size, insulation thickness and insulation hardness (or softness).
Personally, not being in DCC, I have no need for small gauge drops from some large gauge buss - but if I did, solder or some other more reliable mechanical means would be used.
For most of my power wiring I use terminal strips and crimp on "Sta-Kon" connectors. Industrial control wiring has been done this way for decades - I think that makes it reliable enough for model trains.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/STAKON-Fork-Terminal-3KG52?Pid=search
In addition to my own layout, I wired a layout for a friend using the some what complex DC control system I developed. It uses relays, bush buttons and hundreds of wires to simplify wireless DC cab control operation. The wiring on his layout has experienced NOT one connection failure in over 5 years of operation - our group operates his layout at least once every month. This is just one of about 7 relay control centers under his layout:
Which is controlled by turnout position and simple control panels like this: But, use whatever you like if you plan to build your next layout 5 years from now - they will likely last that long in a good environment. Sheldon
Which is controlled by turnout position and simple control panels like this:
But, use whatever you like if you plan to build your next layout 5 years from now - they will likely last that long in a good environment. Sheldon
But, use whatever you like if you plan to build your next layout 5 years from now - they will likely last that long in a good environment.
Sheldon
I used 3M ScotchLok (IDC) #558 for connecting my 22AWG solid feeders to 16AWG stranded buss wires. The items mentioned from Mouser (IDC 157-558), Hobby Engineering (lots of colors) and Lowes, respectively. If you use these, strongly advise to buy the 3M (mine were $0.27 each last year. I first bought some "Scotch-Lok" knockoffs on EBay, likely a trademark infringement, where the price was too good to be true. They were inferior (e.g., one tooth instead of two) and I sent them back to make a point.
Some folks won't use the IDCs, but some do. I did and have not had any issues, though if one occurred it might be hard to track down. I was willing to go this route after reading various threads on this forum.
Do get a type pliers with straight jaws that apply the parallel closing force, much better than just using Channeloks. The official pliers cost about $75 I believe, but I found a "RoboGrip" set at Sears that had the large straight jaw type and a smaller curved jaw one (not useful for IDCs) thrown in for about $25.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Those connectors are never used in commercial wiring. They are occasionally used by small job shops doing things like after market trailer hitch installations. I, personally, would never use them.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
nuBrailroaderI've seen tons of videos on DCC wiring and many of them suggest using suitcase clips, but, unfortunately that doesn't seem to be the correct name for it as I did a search in various stores online, as well as in google and I didn't find what I was looking for, Any of you know what the real name for these things are?
tomikawaTTTrash can filler.
they come in various sizes, and for connecting a smaller gauge wire to a larger one. While I've used the red ones (#905) with 18g stranded wire, i believe they would work more better with solid wire, which is what i use for feeders.
- RED 22-18/18-14 AWG
- BLUE 18-16/14 AWG
- YELLOW 12-10 AWG
See the 3m Scotchlok Instant Auto-electric page for more complete info
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Those are known in the auto industry as scotch locks.
They are also refereed to as "come back locks" . As in, if you use them your repair will come back to haunt you.
Never heard them called suitcase connectors until I read that term here.
Trash can filler.
For the price of one pack of these things I can buy enough solder and flux to solder all the drops on a large model railroad - and I don't have to worry about having one fail at an inopportune moment.
Admittedly, my aircraft maintenance bias shows...
Chuck (Retired flight line tech modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
They are sold under Scotchloc(3M), Suitcase, and IDC(Insulation Displacement Connector) - They should be easy to find. I got mine from either Mouser of DigiKey via mail - Much cheaper than and more selection!
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
you can find them on ebay under suitcase connectors
I go to Menards in there electrical section and they have the blue connectors for real cheap comes with 25 in a pack. I believe they will work for14-20 guage wire. anything smaller you will probably need to buy at a small electronic store.
I think the original brandname was 3M Scotchlok connectors. That will get you to the right stuff with search.
Hi Guys,
I've seen tons of videos on DCC wiring and many of them suggest using suitcase clips, but, unfortunately that doesn't seem to be the correct name for it as I did a search in various stores online, as well as in google and I didn't find what I was looking for, Any of you know what the real name for these things are? Thanks.