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Working railroad crossing signals

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  • Member since
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  • From: North Carolina
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Working railroad crossing signals
Posted by Aikidomaster on Saturday, September 22, 2012 6:43 AM

I am looking to build a 4 structure diorama that will later be installed on my layout. I have a double track mainline and wish to install working crossbuck lights. I have seen some crossbucks with flashing lights on both sides by NJ International. I have never seen a "kit" that has all of the "working" parts such as sensors, power source, and "computer chip". I am in need of some help and direction with this project>Bang Head

Craig North Carolina

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  • From: Dearborn Station
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Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, September 22, 2012 7:15 AM

Craig, you are not alone.

I vividly recall a conversation 9 years ago with the guys at my LHS as I bemoaned the fact that a kit did not exist.  They just laughed and said that such a kit never will exist.  You have to build it yourself.

To make matters worse, you have to add working gates and warning bells to your list.

On my layout, I use Tomar Industries crossbucks which have working lights on both sides.  These crossbucks are activated by an NCE BD20 block detector.  I had to isolate the approach and departure section of the track by gapping the rails at the appropriate points.  I use a Circuitron Alternating Flasher circuit board to flash the lights  Power is provided from the main bus wires. 

I have not added working gates but they are available.

I have not added working bells but circuit boards for this purpose are available.

It can be done.  It just takes time and money.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by cacole on Sunday, September 23, 2012 9:01 AM

No one makes an all-in-one kit, so you have to purchase individual items from different sources.  

I have never used any MTH products, but they supposedly have a system that is nearly complete.  The problem with their system is the between-rail light sensors which don't work very well without very bright overhead lights.

Personally, I use infrared sensors, which are not subject to room lighting conditions.  My choices are either NJ International or Tomar signals, the Grade Crossing Pro controller from Logic Rail Technologies, and infrared sensors.

You can download the documentation for the Logic Rail Technologies system from their web site.

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  • From: Bedford, MA, USA
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Sunday, September 23, 2012 9:38 AM

Since you're building a diorama right now, you really don't need sensors.

This site:    http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/CircuitIndex.html

has a treasure trove of circuits, including a simple 2-light flasher you can use to drive a grade crossing signal, and you can turn it on from a push-button or toggle mounted on the layout.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by maxman on Sunday, September 23, 2012 9:53 AM

The June, 2012, issue of MR had an article by Pelle Soeborg where he describes one method of installing working crossing gates and flashing signals.

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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, September 23, 2012 1:11 PM

 Check Logic Rail Technologies. The Grade Crossing Animator Pro is pretty much this - the dectector system and flasher control, along with bell sound option. Plus it controls Tortoises to move the gates. This is as close to a full 'kit' as you'll find anywhere. In fact I foudn one shop advertising online a true 'kit' with the Logic Rail components plus a pair of Tortoises. Stuff liek this isn;t cheap, the complete kit I found is listed at $105. It's a specific shop not a manufacturer so I won't post the link but if you google "grade crossing animator" it will come up. Or just visit Logic Rail's web site to see the pieces.

 Nice thing about the Logic Rail controller (and why it is more expensive than some) is that it operates in a fully prototypical manner, so that if a train approaches the crossing but stops short or reverse, the gates will go back up. ANd they go down well in advance but raise immediately after the train clears.

                 --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by john.pickles87 on Monday, September 24, 2012 1:42 PM

Hi Craig,

We've installed the MTH, ok it has all the bells and whistles (scuse the pun) and it was easy to install, looks and sounds great, but, if I was doing it again I would have a go at reducing the 2 x 3" cubes that held all the electronic bits that would make it even easier to pack away under a layout.  On a diorama even at acouple of square feet, there ain't much room to space the LD's out.  I soppose you could use a push button as a trip.

 We've also got the Cutcitron pack but ain't got that setup yet.

Be in touch.

pick.

?
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Monday, September 24, 2012 5:25 PM

 ANd conveniently after I posted that, there is a mention of an updated version of the Logic Rail unit in the newest MR. They've added a soft turn on/turn off ror the flashers, so even with LEDs it will look like the bulbs are fading off and on instead of suddenly blinking off.

                 --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by Ron High on Tuesday, September 25, 2012 7:31 PM

Try this product offered with crossbucks flasher unit and infrared detectors/

http://berkshirejunction.com/

Ron High

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  • From: North Carolina
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Posted by Aikidomaster on Friday, September 28, 2012 11:47 AM

I thought that I would build the module with the sensors and everything "working" so that any wiring would be easier than doing it after the module is installed.Black Eye

Craig North Carolina

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Posted by Aikidomaster on Friday, September 28, 2012 11:50 AM

Thanks, Randy. That sounds more like the system that I am looking for.Big Smile I just don't understand why someone does not produce a system that includes all of the necessary equipment. That just seems like a "no brainer" to me.Bang Head

Craig North Carolina

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  • From: North Carolina
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Posted by Aikidomaster on Friday, September 28, 2012 11:53 AM

I plan to have the module about 48" x 48". I am going to run the track at a slight angle. I just do no like too much of that "parallel" to the fascia look. I will fill in the area that the kits do not cover with scratchbuilt structures.Cool

Craig North Carolina

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  • From: Dearborn Station
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Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, September 30, 2012 5:41 AM

Aikidomaster

I just don't understand why someone does not produce a system that includes all of the necessary equipment. That just seems like a "no brainer" to me.

I think that there are a couple of reasons that no one produces an all in one kit for crossing signals.

The main reason is the variety of options available for users to choose from which makes it difficult to package the perfect kit.  Different users will prefer different occupancy detectors.  Different users will prefer crossing gates or no crossing gates.  Some users will want working bells and some users won't care for the sound of working bells.  There are just too many options and alternatives, making if difficult to settle on a single kit.

The other reason is the variety of electronic circuitry required to complete the kit.  No single manufacturer designs all of these different electronic components.  Some manufacturers design the signals themselves.  Others design the circuit boards.  Others design the controls for moving parts and occupancy derectors.

The final reason is cost.  When you add it all up, you can spend somewhere between $100 and $200 to design your own system, and that cost is for just one pair of crossing signals. 

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by Aikidomaster on Wednesday, October 3, 2012 4:14 PM

Rich, 

Thanks again! I just can't believe that one company can't produce then entire system.Thumbs Down

Craig North Carolina

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: North Carolina
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Posted by Aikidomaster on Wednesday, October 3, 2012 4:17 PM

I like the idea of building a diorama that will be ready to install after completion. I would like to have all of the electronics (including the sensors working BEFORE installation. It would seem easier to me to "fix" any mistakes prior to installment.My 2 Cents

Craig North Carolina

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