Yeah, you must remove the spring if using anything other than a Peco switch machine.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Thanks to Randy and Simon both. Doug
rgengineoiler Simon; will the servos's work with Peco c55 electrofrog turnouts that have the spring in the middle of the throw bar. Are they strong enough? Also do you power route? Doug
Simon; will the servos's work with Peco c55 electrofrog turnouts that have the spring in the middle of the throw bar. Are they strong enough? Also do you power route? Doug
I use Peco insulfrog code 100 HO scale. I remove the Peco springs and don't route power.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
I'm sure the servos would work, even the little ones are pretty powerful. It defeats the purpose of using a slow motion switch motor to leave the spring in the Pecos though. Since you mention code 55 track I assume N scale, so my experience may not directly relate, but I use Atlas turnouts (HO) with dead frogs, and I installed a wire on each one to power the frog. So far I have hooked up exactly none of them, the wires are just hanging under the layout at the present, because nothing I run, even my little Bachmann 44 tonner, stalls, even when creeping along. I know that if I didn;t install the wires right fromt he beginning, I'd inevitably have problems. So by inverse Murphy's Law, because I planned ahead, I do not have a problem. If you need to power frogs, or power route, you can either use a microswitch activated by the same servo, or use the relay add-ons that Tam Valley has. The relays are DPDT so you get a contact for the frog plus an extra set for signals. If you dont need DCC control of the turnouts, the Octopus controller is the cheapest on a per-turnout basis, ass the contoller buttons with LEDs for the panel or fascia, and the relays, and pick up some servos on eBay, about $13 for 6, and per turnout it will be no more than a bare Tortoise. I happen to use the Singlets because I have very few areas with more than one or two turnouts close by, which means uignt he 4 or 8 driver boards would be a waste, or I'd have servo cables stretchign all over the palce. The Singlet and Quad are both DCC but will work without it, you just end up payign for the DCC decoder feature that you don't use. The Singlets have the pushbuttons and LEDs as well for local control.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I wholly agree with the Cobalt stories. My friend bought 10, at three different times, and at least three of them are inoperable and do indeed go "click, click, click" - the gears slipping inside the units. More trouble than they are worth, and a great disappointment.
Brian
I use Tam Valley Depot DCC servo controllers and cheap servos. They are very quiet.
What servo controller do you use? Is it quiet?
Debate was over when I saw the specs and price. CObalt draws too much current to use series LEDs for indicators, and they cost a lot more than a Tortoise.
Actually debate was over for me when inexpensive servo controllers became available, I don't even bother with Tortoises now.
Nuff said.
Alton Junction
Looks like the debate is over?
I'm starting a new layout and having this same debate with myself, so I went on line to see what people are saying. There is a consistent story out there that something like 2 out of every dozen or so Cobalts have a problem out of the box. They just sit there and go "click click click". I think I will stick with the tried and true Tortoise.