You are correct, the more modern of the FDL 16 soundsets does not really represent the last 10 years of development since the FDL goes back further. The prime mover/engine of the last decade for GE is the GEVO unit. With Soundtrax PN 827116 TSU-1000 GE Gevo-12. I don't think this is in an AT format yet. First pre-production units of the Evo series Loco was in 2003--prime mover was in development before hand.
http://www.soundtraxx.com/dsd/tsunami/1000at.php
If you can, try to put 2 speakers in there with one being a high bass or bass reflex. Using the equalizer and other settings can help you get the sound you're wanting as well. If this is a P42 for example, you can easily put in a 1.06 HB speaker. In addition to the double sided tape you could put a piece of tape over the board and attach to the side of the motor. I usually add a .030 or so thick piece of plastic stock cut to a size a little bigger than the chip to support the chip on top of the motor.
Richard
MV Products, they make lenses and detail parts. Like most small model railroad companies they don;t have a web site, but Walthers carries their line: http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?manu=516&split=30
It's going to look overwhelming because there are HUNDREDS to choose from, got to get the correct diameter to fit in the Athearn holes, or else cut out the rectangle and install a complete headlight casting with lenses, but there's no real reason to do that unless you are superdetailing to match a specific prototype that may have had a different headlight fromt he standard one Athearn has cast in the shell.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Jacktal These decoders come with both the compressor and fan sounds controlled manually with F9 & F10 ... A suggestion...another ongoing discussion on setting these decoders..."starting engine sound".You might find it an interesting thread.
These decoders come with both the compressor and fan sounds controlled manually with F9 & F10 ...
A suggestion...another ongoing discussion on setting these decoders..."starting engine sound".You might find it an interesting thread.
Oh did not know the default is Compressor and Fan manual. I did hear the "psst" of the compressor relief valve ... But not the compressor itself. I will try this.
Oh I have been a participant in that thread ... I have played much with the CVs to control this and my weird problem was solved by a suggestion from this thread.
Randy, thanks. What is "MV" sorry newbie.
- NP
You don't need LEDs that fit in the holes, what you want are some lenses, most likely MV has the proper size, to take the place of the protruding light bulbs Athearn uses (I can almost excuse it on the lower price RTR, btu they do it on the Genesis series too) and then mount an LED behind them to shine through. If there's room, you can put the LED in a short piece of tubing, either styrene or brass, that will shield the light from lighting up the rest of the loco, and also give you an easy way to attach it to the inside behind the lenses. Ulrich has complete kits for some Athearn locos, unfortunately not the one you have.
I agree totally...I'm disappointed by the sound of the idling FDL16 engine...sounds like an old engine that has a misfiring problem.These decoders come with both the compressor and fan sounds controlled manually with F9 & F10.You can have them automatically controlled by setting CV112=3.They will then come on and off randomly,like the real thing.
I completed my first DCC install ever. The same Athearn RTR Amtrak loco where I had earlier experienced the rumbling noise issue. The decoder is a Tsunami AT1000 with GE FDL16 modern sound set. Soundtrax 1" round speaker and baffle. It was actually very easy! Everything worked the first time which is happening to me more and more!
I did burn out the original headlights, they were 1.5V and I wired them to the 12V common. But one of them had burned out anyway and I am thinking of replacing with LED.
The only candidate I see is the Miniatronics 2mm tower which can be sanded down. Is there any other option that's easier?
One thing I am not happy with is the securing th decoder to the motor mount. I ended up using double sided tape as suggested in on of the YouTube videos ... Any ideas there?
The idle sounds a bit like an old engine, not a diesel designed in the last 10 years. Also, the high pitch rapid noise of the compressor is not there. So can't say the sound is realistic to my years. Maybe here's where the tuning comes in.
Anyway, my son cant say "engine no have ting-ting" anymore.